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[fxr4mikey]

I'm happy with the response from my bike for the aprox $275 I put into the ign system

I didn't PLAN to only do the ign system by itself, it just worked out that way.  However this gave me a very clear understanding of the changes in the bike performance from the ign system as it was the only changes made at that time.

I'd do it again.

[Hoist!]

These single fire Evo programmable ignitions allow you to adjust certain items that are normally non-adjustable. Rev limit and advance curve are the most common. But the programming in them is much more aggressive than the program in the stock HD module. The SE HD module improves the ignition program, but it's still dual-fire (both plugs fire everytime, as opposed to single-fire which fires each cylinder separately). I have a Dyna single-fire ignition with a single-fire coil system that fits under the stock coil cover. You'd never know from looking at the bike what kinda ignition's in it. Contact HD_Dude, he'll hook ya up with one. He did mine before we shipped Joy to NYC!

Hoist!

[93 FXR]

Hey all....

I've recently found an Ultima Programmable Single Fire Ignition system through Jireh Cycles.   www.jirehcycles.com
The part number comes up as invalid. I called and asked about them, and of course, they said they're great. (imagine that)
There part number is 53-660 for 149.95. Comes with module, and a single fire coil and installation goodies.. Also, you can purchase for an additional 89 bucks a PC link and software for features which allow you to record data from the machine. I've had two different companies tell me that these are manufactured by Dynatek for Ultima, and they are the same ignition systems which are in Ultima's El Bruto motors.
Does anyone have Dynatek ignition or this Ultima ignition system in there machines? Or...for that matter, an Ultima motor? I'm going to make the move to single fire, and interested in your thoughts.

Thanks,

93

[Hoist!]

Hey all....

I've recently found an Ultima Programmable Single Fire Ignition system through Jireh Cycles.   www.jirehcycles.com
The part number comes up as invalid. I called and asked about them, and of course, they said they're great. (imagine that)
There part number is 53-660 for 149.95. Comes with module, and a single fire coil and installation goodies.. Also, you can purchase for an additional 89 bucks a PC link and software for features which allow you to record data from the machine. I've had two different companies tell me that these are manufactured by Dynatek for Ultima, and they are the same ignition systems which are in Ultima's El Bruto motors.
Does anyone have Dynatek ignition or this Ultima ignition system in there machines? Or...for that matter, an Ultima motor? I'm going to make the move to single fire, and interested in your thoughts.

Thanks,

93

Well, yeah. See the very post before yours.

Hoist!

[93 FXR]

Thanks,....
in the post I was looking for your thoughts.
Looking to see if anyone has used the Ultima product before, and if not, the Dynatek.
Would you recommend? Any issues? Quirks? Things that you liked/disliked?  Overall quality compared to the many other single fire's out there.....as I stated, I'm going to make the move to single fire, and trying to get as much info on the Ultima/Dynatek as possible before I crack the wallet open. You know the old saying, you get what you pay for....this seems very reasonably priced, considering the prices of other systems which are out there.

[Hoist!]

Thanks,....
in the post I was looking for your thoughts.
Looking to see if anyone has used the Ultima product before, and if not, the Dynatek.
Would you recommend? Any issues? Quirks? Things that you liked/disliked?  Overall quality compared to the many other single fire's out there.....as I stated, I'm going to make the move to single fire, and trying to get as much info on the Ultima/Dynatek as possible before I crack the wallet open. You know the old saying, you get what you pay for....this seems very reasonably priced, considering the prices of other systems which are out there.

Dyna has been around a long time and I've been using their ignitions for years. Used to only use the Dyna S ignition, which is basically electronic points. It comes in single-fire (dual pickups) and dual-fire (single pickup). I'm using their programmable single-fire ignition for the first time now. I bought my bike in CA and shipped it back to NYC. Jim (hd-dude) from this site set my bike up before it was shipped here. He uses this ignition all the time and could better explain the benefits to you. I have no experience with Ultima's ignition at all. But with the Dyna ignition, S&S Super E and Cycle Shack M pipes, my BLUE3 runs GREAT!!!

Hoist!

[93 FXR]

Thanks for the input....I appreciate it.

[SPIDERMAN]

Sorry I'm late weighing in on this thread. My experience is that the Crane Hi-4 is the most dependable of all of the ones you mentioned. I've run the others and always had some issue like higher than normal coil, voltage regulator, stator etc failure. Also some are very fussy and if memory serves, the Dyna-S operates with weights. Anyway, I'm a big fan of the Crane based on my personal experience with them.

B B

[Hoist!]

Sorry I'm late weighing in on this thread. My experience is that the Crane Hi-4 is the most dependable of all of the ones you mentioned. I've run the others and always had some issue like higher than normal coil, voltage regulator, stator etc failure. Also some are very fussy and if memory serves, the Dyna-S operates with weights. Anyway, I'm a big fan of the Crane based on my personal experience with them.

B B

That's correct B B! It's just an electronic pickup that acts as points without the moving parts. It uses a points backplate. And it uses a points coil too. But the electronic Dyna single-fire I'm using now is computerized and programmable like the Crane HI-4. We were always Dyna ignition guys. You sound like a Crane guy!

Hoist!

[93 FXR]

Hey all....

I've recently found an Ultima Programmable Single Fire Ignition system through Jireh Cycles.   www.jirehcycles.com
The part number comes up as invalid. I called and asked about them, and of course, they said they're great. (imagine that)
There part number is 53-660 for 149.95. Comes with module, and a single fire coil and installation goodies.. Also, you can purchase for an additional 89 bucks a PC link and software for features which allow you to record data from the machine. I've had two different companies tell me that these are manufactured by Dynatek for Ultima, and they are the same ignition systems which are in Ultima's El Bruto motors.
Does anyone have Dynatek ignition or this Ultima ignition system in there machines? Or...for that matter, an Ultima motor? I'm going to make the move to single fire, and interested in your thoughts.

Thanks,

93

Check this out.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350127472279&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

[Hoist!]

Check this out.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350127472279&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

Never used it, but it loks like a good deal! Let us know how ya like it!

Hoist!

[RedFXR2]

I had about settled on the Daytona Twin Tec package deal but after doing some more research I find that it's not as "plug and play" as I had initially believed.  Apparently, in order to get a single-fire system out of any of these units, Daytona, Crane, whoever, one must run some additional wires from the new ignition module.  One wire to the coil and one wire to the tachometer.  The Daytona unit tells the owner to disconnect the pink wire at the tach and replace it with a wire directly to the new ignition module.  On my bike, that would mean probably cutting the wire behind the tach, since it's bundled with about 7 more wires in a group plastic plug--apparently one that can't be dismantled.  I don't like cutting (permanently) factory wiring,, plus I'd have to remove the tank to run the wire (preferably) along the existing backbone wiring harness.  Not sure how else I'd get it from the side cover to the tach without it being scabbed on somewhere..   The other new wire would go from the new module to the coil.  Both would have to be run independently and at least a bit hard to conceal or look "factory".

So, to particularly FXR4mikey and Howie, how were these additional wires done on your bikes?  I know Mikey has a seperate additional module on his coil to correct the tach--frankly I like that idea a lot better than cutting my wires and running new ones.  Daytona, for one, doesn't mention those, but I figure I could use one with their units.

What I really want is single-fire ignition that's truly "plug and play".  That is, remove the factory module/coil/sensor plate, whatever, install the new ones and ride.  Now new wires to fiddle with.  But I suppose the hard wiring of the Evo bikes don't permit that?

[fxr4mikey]

I had about settled on the Daytona Twin Tec package deal but after doing some more research I find that it's not as "plug and play" as I had initially believed.  Apparently, in order to get a single-fire system out of any of these units, Daytona, Crane, whoever, one must run some additional wires from the new ignition module.  One wire to the coil and one wire to the tachometer.  The Daytona unit tells the owner to disconnect the pink wire at the tach and replace it with a wire directly to the new ignition module.  On my bike, that would mean probably cutting the wire behind the tach, since it's bundled with about 7 more wires in a group plastic plug--apparently one that can't be dismantled.  I don't like cutting (permanently) factory wiring,, plus I'd have to remove the tank to run the wire (preferably) along the existing backbone wiring harness.  Not sure how else I'd get it from the side cover to the tach without it being scabbed on somewhere..   The other new wire would go from the new module to the coil.  Both would have to be run independently and at least a bit hard to conceal or look "factory".

So, to particularly FXR4mikey and Howie, how were these additional wires done on your bikes?  I know Mikey has a seperate additional module on his coil to correct the tach--frankly I like that idea a lot better than cutting my wires and running new ones.  Daytona, for one, doesn't mention those, but I figure I could use one with their units.

What I really want is single-fire ignition that's truly "plug and play".  That is, remove the factory module/coil/sensor plate, whatever, install the new ones and ride.  Now new wires to fiddle with.  But I suppose the hard wiring of the Evo bikes don't permit that?

I'm gonna go out to the garage and get my papers.  I made a lil wiring diagram when I switched mine out.
One thing, as you noted in your last paragraph.  You will not find a 'true plug and play' ...... the wiring is just not set up like that. You will have to add a couple of wires, and a module for the tach.   HOWEVER, you CAN make it look like factory, or very close to it.    I'll have my tank off again soon, as I start my build.   I'll post up some pics .....
HEY, I got some pics.  I had to also replace the speedo cable late this summer and I have pics from that job too.

BTW, if/when you ever have to replace your speedo cable, the tank will have to come off.......Taking the tank off is somwhat a pita, but I find it harder to get it BACK on than to get it off.  In both cases, I wish I didn't have to do it ..... but I've had it off about 5 times.


be back in a bit

[fxr4mikey]

I'm gonna go out to the garage and get my papers.  I made a lil wiring diagram when I switched mine out.
One thing, as you noted in your last paragraph.  You will not find a 'true plug and play' ...... the wiring is just not set up like that. You will have to add a couple of wires, and a module for the tach.   HOWEVER, you CAN make it look like factory, or very close to it.    I'll have my tank off again soon, as I start my build.   I'll post up some pics .....
HEY, I got some pics.  I had to also replace the speedo cable late this summer and I have pics from that job too.

BTW, if/when you ever have to replace your speedo cable, the tank will have to come off.......Taking the tank off is somwhat a pita, but I find it harder to get it BACK on than to get it off.  In both cases, I wish I didn't have to do it ..... but I've had it off about 5 times.


be back in a bit

OK, here's the Compu-Fire system that I put in:

 Selectable Advance Ignition Modules
The Compu-Fire selectable advance curve ignition modules are the most user friendly ignitions on the market. They feature a NEW range of advance curves to meet the needs of engines from stock to wild. The large rotary switches allow advance curve and RPM limiter selection. Easy installation is made possible with a built in LED static timing light. The modules feature extended temperature and low voltage operation with soft start circuitry for easy starting. The modules operate with single fire or dual fire coils and the VOES is tuneable.
Use with P/N 51105 Tach Adapter for single fire coil tach signal.

20600 Ignition Module Kit for stock to mild performance
          1970-Later Big Twins and Sportsters (except Twin Cam)

I also installed the tach adapter kit - Use with P/N 51105 Tach Adapter for single fire coil tach signal.

now, how did I wire this thing up.
first all, let me say that there was a very good set of instructions that came with the unit. Covered installation well, and timing setup and advance curve settings.

you will need to have your service manual and opened to the wiring diagram for your bike

This may be a bit long winded, and I'm getting interrupted, so I might not finish it, and will have to come back,  hang with me.

The installation instructions for the 20600 kit are located here:  http://www.compufire.com/pdf-instructions/nosecone.pdf

in the section titled: CONVERTING 1980 and LATER OEM ELECTRONICS TO COMPU-FIRE® IGNITION
 
you now have the stock stuff out of the nose cone
however the ignition wires from the sensor plate is still plugged into the stock ign module.  Here you have to make your first big decision about how you want to proceed.  Here's what I did.

In order to get the new sensor plate wired into the harness I decided to cut the plug off of the harness and directly wire the new plate into it.  I left about 6 inches of wire on the plug end so if I ever wanted to put it back I'd have enough wire to do so.  I left the stock module mounted right were it was.

in this picture you can see the new module is installed in the nose cone.  Look over to the left under the side cover. You'll see the stock module still there. You'll see the small coil of wires just under that. That is where I wired in the new Compu-Fire ignition into the harness.  I just spliced them in, and zip tied them up using the little frame lugs that were there for the original harness.

In my case it went like this. 

Red wire from module = 12+v and goes to the white/blk cable in the harness that runs to the + side of the coil
Green wire from module = voes and goes to the purple wire in the harness that runs to the voes
Black wire from module = goes to black wire in the harness that runs to the front cylinder side of the coil
White wire from the module = goes to the pink wire in the harness that runs to the rear cylinder side of the coil

[fxr4mikey]

part two



now, let's talk about the tach adapter .... it's a LITTLE thing, about half the size of your thumb.

ok, look at this picture


look at the read cyl .... see the white wire coming from the coil to the lil black thing - that's the tach adapter.
The white/blk wire from the tach adapter goes to the center post on the coil
The pink wire from the tach adapter splices onto the pink wire in the harness.  The way I handled that was.  1) chk'd my wiring diagram to determine that the pink wire was in fact coming from the tach.  Traced it back into the harness,I used an ohm meter several times. I had to unplug parts of the harness and I used the meter to determine that I still had the correct wire. It was a bit of a challenge.  Cut a small slit in the tubing that surrounds the harness, just enough to get some of the pink wire open so that I could cut it. I cut the wire, spliced in the tach adapter and then taped it up.  I put the lil tach adapter up on top of the harness and zip tied it in place.  The wires on the adapter are short !  so it had to be close to the coil.  I didn't want to have troubles later with chafing so I put some of that curly wire wrapping around the wire from the adapter to the coil.  You can see that in the picture, you can also notice how short that wire is, I don't know why that wire had to be so short .....  The tach adapter is a SEALED module with the wires sealed into it.  If you wanted longer wires I guess you could splice onto the end of it.

To help eliminated problems I soldered in the splices, wire nutted them, taped them, and zip tied them into place.

I hope this is of some help to you.

I didn't really want to cut into the harness either, but it was the fastest, easiest way to do it.  I had basically the harness completely off the backbone.  It's all back nice and neat looking now, under the tank   LOL.

You could do it by getting another plug at the stock ignition module, get a pin pusher, put pins on the new wires from the new ign module and push them into the new plug and then plug it in.
OR
I don't see why, if you didn't care about the stock sensor cable, you could cut the plug off that, and wire in your new sensor module with pins into that plug and connect it up.  You will still have to find a way to handle the tach adapter as the wires are not long enough to reach that far.

If you need/want to discuss in on the phone you can PM me and I'll pass ya my phone number.


Best of Luck to you !!