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[grc]

Henry, the rotation problem came to light fairly early in the life of the Jagg adaptor, and they came up with an optional part to eliminate the problem.  Would have been much nicer if they just included it with the adaptor, but it appears they embraced the Harley strategy of selling partially engineered products and then selling you additional stuff to fix the problems that surface. 
--------------------------------------
4600AR-A - For TC-88A & TC-96A
Touring and Roadking models.........................$15.95
 
 Anti-rotation Device for Offset Oil Filter Adapters
Bolts to the face of Offset Oil Filter Adapter to lock adapter in place against the case. This prevents oil filter adapter rotation during removal of an oil filter that has tightened due to thermal expansion of the o-ring during the heat cycle.
--------------------------------------

As for the mess, I still haven't found a way around that even with the old style filter mount without any hoses above or below the filter.  I've just resigned myself to flushing the area with degreaser and water after every oil change, then doing a full wash.

Jerry

 

[REGGAB]

Henry, the rotation problem came to light fairly early in the life of the Jagg adaptor, and they came up with an optional part to eliminate the problem.  Would have been much nicer if they just included it with the adaptor, but it appears they embraced the Harley strategy of selling partially engineered products and then selling you additional stuff to fix the problems that surface. 
--------------------------------------
4600AR-A - For TC-88A & TC-96A
Touring and Roadking models.........................$15.95
 
 Anti-rotation Device for Offset Oil Filter Adapters
Bolts to the face of Offset Oil Filter Adapter to lock adapter in place against the case. This prevents oil filter adapter rotation during removal of an oil filter that has tightened due to thermal expansion of the o-ring during the heat cycle.
--------------------------------------

As for the mess, I still haven't found a way around that even with the old style filter mount without any hoses above or below the filter.  I've just resigned myself to flushing the area with degreaser and water after every oil change, then doing a full wash.

Jerry

 

Jerry,
Man, I'm in the wrong business.     I've seen that device for both "A" and "B" motors.  Never needed it for the green bike since I don't go gorilla torque on the oil filter.  1/2 turn past contact means 2500 miles later I "might" need a 17mm to get it off.  But the mess...........argh.......aw.........man.........that just vacuums! 
So, with this new setup Rod is putting on Thump, I should be able to implement my dripless oil change regimen again.  Might take some tweaking, but it looks doable again.  I HATE that oil mess...............which is yet another reason I'm doing away with the stock oil cooler.  Pulling it part every 2500 miles to clean up the mess got real old.

[Wildrat]

I saw on this other forum a fella is using a 2 litre drink bottle with the bottom cut out and cut here and there on the bottom to fit and the top was cut also.
When I do my filter I use that socket style wrench with a 12-14 inch extension and ratchet. So I suggested putting a gasket at the cap end made out of rubber or even a piece of leather and have it fit snugly around the extension. That way any oil that gets in the bottle won't pour out. Does that make sense to anyone besides me?

[spydglide]

I saw on this other forum a fella is using a 2 litre drink bottle with the bottom cut out and cut here and there on the bottom to fit and the top was cut also.
When I do my filter I use that socket style wrench with a 12-14 inch extension and ratchet. So I suggested putting a gasket at the cap end made out of rubber or even a piece of leather and have it fit snugly around the extension. That way any oil that gets in the bottle won't pour out. Does that make sense to anyone besides me?

Yeah, you need to make one up.......test it and report back (with pics, or course) and then, if the prototype is a workable solution to this annoying problem, make up some for your CVO Harley brethren.  har!  spyder

[Ironhorse]

I ran the oil cooler crash bar on my Ultra for a year. It has it's good points and not so good points. It did lower oil temps better than the HD one mounted behind the fender. On the inlet side, the bar got so hot that I could not touch it without gloves. On the outlet side, it was warm enough to touch, but just barely. If you accidentally rubbed against the inlet side, you would get a nasty burn. I kept my lowers on, and when I removed them, I found the paint on the plastic parts that contacted the bar melted and softened. So if you are going to run your lowers, wrap the contact area of the bar in muffler wrap.

I kept it on for a year until someone mentioned the possibility of oil pump issues to me. I was told that the oil pump in the engine is designed to pump a finite amount of pressure, and that perhaps the size of the crash bar orafice, the height, and the direct upwards angle may be too much for the oil pump to handle. In other words the oil passanges in the engine are smaller in diameter and the pump can more easily push oil through it, where as the larger diameter of the crash bar may make it harder. I understood it to mean that it's easier to blow and move a fluid through a drinking straw instead of a piece of PVC piping going straight up.  But, on the other hand lots of folks (including me for a year) run them with no problems. In fact I don't ever recall hearing about any problems with the crash bar oil cooler set up at all. So my concerns about that may have been unwarranted.

The only other concern is that if you get into a minor accident (if there is such a thing), the bike could be rideable unless the accident leaves crash bar damaged and leaking or otherwise compromised.

[Wildrat]

Yeah, you need to make one up.......test it and report back (with pics, or course) and then, if the prototype is a workable solution to this annoying problem, make up some for your CVO Harley brethren.  har!  spyder

You buy me the pop/soda (Dad's Diet RootBeer) and I'll even make one for your dog!

I will do some googling on pump problems.

I found the not temp control silver plate at M&M @ $88 and the temp controlled  in black for $119

[Wildrat]

Is -6 AN line big enough hose to run for this mod. The fittings on the Jagg adapter plate are they 1/8 npt?

Called Jagg, the man on the other end of the wire said -6 AN is plenty big, and the fitting is 3/8 push, 1/8 pipe. I'm wondering if that is why these instructions that are floating around out there on the different forums use 1/8 pipe on the crash bar, with the size of the crash bar tubing you could easily use 3/8 pipe.

If anyone has an idea why the 8th pipe on the crash bar let me know. I know putting the tank seal in the bar will be a lot easier with the bigger size.

[Wildrat]

Anyone have any thoughts on using 3/8 pipe down at the crash bar?

I'm ready to order my fittings, hose and stuff from Summit Racing. Summit has their own fittings now and they are less expensive than Aeroquip, Earl's, or Accel. They also come in the standard blue/red, but also black, and nickel plate. I'm going to use black AN/8th npt on the adapter plate with black hose, then nickel plate AN/ 3/8th's at the crash bar not unless I should use the 8th pipe at the crash bar. It should be pretty stealthy not unless you look close.

[Ironhorse]

Guys,

I searched my PC for pics of my old install and could not find any to post. It was pretty simple, and I did it all on the bike. I didn't install a drain plug for it either since pulling the hose would produce the same effect. I have to say that it did a better job of lowering oil temps than the HD one ever did.

Mark

[Wildrat]

What about using a 3/8th's npt instead of 1/8th npt down at the crash bar?

[sportygordy]

O.K. Guys.. Here is the trick to your oil mess.. IT WORKS EVERY TIME::: TRUST ME 

First:
Find an old lower banjo brake bolt, the large hollow version used in the front brakes. Grind down a flat section on the bolt, starting mid section area of the bolt, so you end up with a very sharp threaded bolt. You want to make sure half of the bolt still has usable threads.

Next:
Find about 2-3 feet of hose which fits over the banjo bolt. Make sure you get a snug fit.

Next:
Find (i found some at home depot) a thick rubber gasket that bits the banjo bolt snug.

Next:
Loosen your oil filter to hand tight

Next:
Find a long socket that fits the banjo bolt. Drive the sharp banjo bolt into the back side of the filter. I do mine at top left will explain next.

Next:
Screw in the banjo bolt until the rubber grommet is snug. Now turn your oil filter so banjo bolt is at the bottom.


Wallah,


If your oil is warm, all the oil should drain within 10-15 Min's. Cold oil give it an hour.


This really works good,, should solve all your oil mess problems.

[spydglide]

O.K. Guys.. Here is the trick to your oil mess.. IT WORKS EVERY TIME::: TRUST ME 

First:
Find an old lower banjo brake bolt, the large hollow version used in the front brakes. Grind down a flat section on the bolt, starting mid section area of the bolt, so you end up with a very sharp threaded bolt. You want to make sure half of the bolt still has usable threads.

Next:
Find about 2-3 feet of hose which fits over the banjo bolt. Make sure you get a snug fit.

Next:
Find (i found some at home depot) a thick rubber gasket that bits the banjo bolt snug.

Next:
Loosen your oil filter to hand tight

Next:
Find a long socket that fits the banjo bolt. Drive the sharp banjo bolt into the back side of the filter. I do mine at top left will explain next.

Next:
Screw in the banjo bolt until the rubber grommet is snug. Now turn your oil filter so banjo bolt is at the bottom.


Wallah,


If your oil is warm, all the oil should drain within 10-15 Min's. Cold oil give it an hour.


This really works good,, should solve all your oil mess problems.

Hey   Sporty, I think I've got a mental picture of how you ground down the banjo bolt, but if you could post a pic of it, I'd be sure.  thanks, spyder

[sportygordy]

will stake some pics tonight and post.

[kansaskim47]

                                               

I used stainless steel 1/8" street els and 1/8" X 1/4" stainless steel barbed fittings. I polished the els and the hex on the nipples.  I didn't think the thru hole in the fittings was large enough, a little over 1/8", so I drilled out the inside to 7/32". 
I ran the hoses back along the frame rails to between the engine and transmission where the thermostat is tucked up in-between them. 
Remember mine is an evo, so I have some room there and was able to tap into the return line from the filter there too.
I originally tried the Jagg adaptor and didn't like the hoses and thermostat in front of the engine.
You fellas with the Twinkies may not have other options for thermostat and hose routings.
The install is very stealthy, you have to know what you're looking at to even see it.

                                           

[sportygordy]

Hey   Sporty, I think I've got a mental picture of how you ground down the banjo bolt, but if you could post a pic of it, I'd be sure.  thanks, spyder

Im not the worlds best photo taker so here is my best shot,, total 3 photos.