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Author Topic: Motor break-in  (Read 4582 times)

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MObe

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #30 on: August 26, 2005, 02:08:19 PM »

 Just be sure not to mix the synthetic and mineral oils in your donut glaze or you will get the chits.  [smiley=nervous.gif]
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MObe

RedFXR2

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #31 on: August 26, 2005, 02:08:59 PM »

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RedFXR2, I think the Bimmers have a greater capacity than normal, don't they?
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RedFXR2

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #32 on: August 26, 2005, 02:13:14 PM »

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I'll be 35 in October, I still have not experienced a Krispy Kreme.


Sounds like a great birthday present coming up.  A dozen hot ones please.

[Ahem] Now, about motor break-in.  I think the original issue reveolved around two methods--hard or gentle. [smiley=laugh.gif]
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HUBBARD

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #33 on: August 26, 2005, 04:01:02 PM »

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Just read Joe Minton article in Am. Rider.
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Coolbreeze

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #34 on: August 26, 2005, 04:30:04 PM »

Weeellll, Hubbard, I differ with ya there...  I think as long as the egg shaped pistons fit the egg shaped cylinders, ya oughta be fine! [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #35 on: August 26, 2005, 09:35:47 PM »

Hubbard brings up a very good point - the way you break in a regular production engine is less critical than breaking in a racing or hand built high output engine.  The clearances on a racing engine are usually much tighter, including piston to cylinder bore, ring end gap, etc., and the various parts are more susceptable to scoring or galling at initial startup and during break-in.  
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DavidB

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #36 on: August 26, 2005, 09:53:11 PM »

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Just read Joe Minton article in Am. Rider.
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RedFXR2

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #37 on: August 27, 2005, 09:44:11 AM »

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Hubbard brings up a very good point - the way you break in a regular production engine is less critical than breaking in a racing or hand built high output engine.
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mr_magoo

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #38 on: August 27, 2005, 09:59:16 AM »

Read a bottle of Red line Synthetic oil it say do not use for the first 3000 miles,  gotta think the company knows what its talking about.  Hears how I breakin a motor first use dino oil right from the start and for the first 30 miles I run hard accel amd decel thru all 5 gears.  At 50 miles change the oil & filter,  then again at 200miles change them again,  then at 500miles and do not use synthetic untill I have 3000miles on the bike.
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ridefar

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #39 on: August 27, 2005, 10:26:19 AM »

I used the Joe Minton Method of motor breakin as seen in the June 2004 issue of American Rider with very good results. As he said, HD break in mostly consists of seating the rings as most other motor parts run in roller bearings which require no break in. That being said, most will agree that varying engine rpm and keeping the heat down for the the first 500mi is a good idea. Change the engine oil and filter at 500mi to get rid of any assembly gook and initial wear particles, plus you will feel good about it I promise. As far as "ride it like you stole it", I never stole one so I don't Know what the heck thats all about! Sidebar to the subject of BMW extended service intervals: they used to call for oil and filter changes "at your BMW dealer" every 3000 miles, until they they began to use "free scheduled maintanance" as a sales gimick. Now that they are paying for it. that same oil and filter can go for 11,000 mi. curious, is it not. Be careful out there!
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RedFXR2

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #40 on: August 27, 2005, 03:43:56 PM »

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Sidebar to the subject of BMW extended service intervals: they used to call for oil and filter changes "at your BMW dealer" every 3000 miles, until they they began to use "free scheduled maintanance" as a sales gimick. Now that they are paying for it. that same oil and filter can go for 11,000 mi. curious, is it not. Be careful out there!


I know what you're saying.  Since rebuilding a BMW V8 will probably cost about the same as the annual budget for Bolivia, I figure this car will be on some dealers' "off lease" lot when we're done with it, not in our garage with our name on it.
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fxdjerry

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #41 on: August 27, 2005, 06:44:18 PM »

For what it's worth (probably about 2 cents)..... When I was running bmw's at some point they came out with a Nykasil lining for the jugs. Seen one apart and that stuff is very hard and  slippery was supposed to enhance the engine operation. Just wanted to mention not all cylinders are created equal.
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Michael

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #42 on: August 27, 2005, 07:07:03 PM »

Wow...Nykasil. I havent heard that term since I was MotoCross racing in the 80s. The Japanese manufacturers (Suzuki, Kawasaki, Yamaha & Honda) have been using Nykasil on the 2-stroke dirt bikes for years.

Which raises the question on coated cylinders, because the two strokes had a gear lube and pre-mix. The pre-mixes from the factory were, back then, petro based. However, today, are synthetic. Now I need to call my engine builder from back in the day and get his take on this...Stay tuned, I'll be back.
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ridefar

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #43 on: August 27, 2005, 10:11:28 PM »

In regard to the nicasil BMW V-8 motors:you guys would not believe how many motors BMW_AG replaced at zero cost to the customer within the first 100,000 miles if a leakdown test showed out of spec! No recall, just customer complaint was required. They had problems with a ton of engines from model years 1993 and 1994 that they blamed on high sulpher content of U.S.A. gasoline. Those of us that knew better figured they just built a bunch of bad motors. Can you imagine a U.S. auto maker standing up to the plate like that? Oh yeah, never buy a BMW with a V-8 automatic trans for long term use. THe trans are all weak and generally fail between 80 and 110,000 miles guaranteed! Clutches will last 150,000 miles, are much cheaper and way  more fun to drive. Be careful ot there! Sorry about the topic diversion, at least its not about donuts...mmmm
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HUBBARD

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #44 on: August 29, 2005, 05:20:47 PM »

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Weeellll, Hubbard, I differ with ya there...
« Last Edit: August 29, 2005, 05:21:07 PM by HUBBARD »
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