Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[srqseeg]

Many of you folks have made super recommendations on bike configurations to gain the most out of the SEEG riding experience.  I've followed some of these recommendations but may not have gone far enough.  My ride is a 2005 SEEG (yes, red) with the SE air cleaner, HD Race Tuner (dyno'd by dealer at sea level), and Rinehart exhaust with standard baffles.  

Some background.  Love the sound now and getting less heat from the motor, but really lost the "zip" the bike came with out of the box.  On the way to Club HOG in Chattanooga I rode with a friend from Boaz, AL to Chattanooga through beautiful country.  When going up a straight away 3/4 mile 9% grade (approximate) all the SEEG would muster in 5th was 60 mph.  Quite distressing as my friend pulled away on his Vulcan 1500.

Now to the issue at hand.  What do you recommend to gain low end zip and better pulling power on grades?  I've searched the site and saw some discussions but not sure what kind of cams or other changes you folks would recommend.  [smiley=confused5.gif]
Thanks in advance!

[110tHunDer]

What do you recommend to gain low end zip and better pulling power on grades?

Downshifting.

[srqseeg]

LOL  Certainly the low cost option.

[110tHunDer]

Well, seriously, though, what RPM are you pulling at 60mph in 5th gear?  I forget, like 2500 or something?  Torque peaks somewhere between 3500 and 4000 rpm on these motors.  You need to get it in the sweet spot when pulling a grade, particularly if you're trying to keep up with your buddy, though I would hazzard to guess he might beat you every time (less weight and pushing less wind).

[hd2003-se2005]

SRQSEEG

How bout this,

And I hate to pass this on to someone else,,,, but!


04hd103 has the same set up as you I believe.

And that's one strong running bike.

Send him a PM and see if you can compare maps.

103T, I think has his # and maybe Brian can call and get Tommy to hop on line and help you.

And again all this is based on my assumption that he has the same set up as you!

What have you got to loose?
If I'm right about the equipment I'm sure 103T will help.



HD2003

[smiley=cherry.gif]

[JCZ]

Downshifting.

Brian's right.......gotta remember, these are heavy weight bikes with stroker motors in them.  You can go do other stuff, but you don't have to......just watch your RPMs.  And if it doesn't have the "zip" that it did have, I'd get it back on the dyno and find out why.

To get the "zip" you want  "torque".......to keep it there, once you get it there, you want horsepower.

[srqseeg]

103tHunDer,

Downshifting should have been done.

[srqseeg]

hd2003,

Thanks.

[110tHunDer]

The dealer

[srqseeg]

103tHunDer,

Not exaggerating, unless they count their runs in threes.

[BLM777]

103's got it right.

[srqseeg]

BLM777,

Thanks!  Although I've ridden 11,700 miles on the bike, I have not changed my shifting habits from the original set up (and break in period) and book recommendations (into 5th at 45 mph).  Sounds stupid now, but probably should be pressing the rpms more than the book recommendations prior to shifting as well, particularly with the modifications.  

[110tHunDer]

srqseeg, you need to be wringing that thing out some more, man!  These things pull hard all the way to just north of 5,000 rpm.  You've put that many miles on and haven't red-lined her?  You don't know what you're missing!

[Unbalanced]

SRQSEEG,

I am sorry to hear your disappointed.  If this were my bike and someone did 109 dyno runs on my tires I would be asking them to replace the damn tire.   That is a lot of wear you just lost and paid for on top of the cost of the dyno tuning.  Is there much tread left I would check this for safety sake ?  I sure hope the tire was at 40 psi and not higher to inflate your numbers to justify someones inability to tune the bike.  

Some things to consider were your rpm's,  4th gear would probably have been the better choice especially since you were somewhere around 2000 rpms to start and at 60 around 2400 to 2500 rpm.  the downshift would not have beat you up and it would have made the motor run better.   Look at your dyno runs your power isnt really starting until then anyhow.  3500 rpm= about 70 hp.

Beyond that you have to realize you have a stroker motor with an EPA cam in the bike not a bad cam not a great cam for low end torque either.  Trying to roll on in 5th gear on a 9% grade from 2000 rpm's or 2500 rpm's would be tough considering the pull up hill and your in a cruising gear not a real pulling gear.  I think your expectations are a bit unfair for the test you gave.

You may want to consider some other choices like a 251 cam pulls a bit more than the 253 or another brand of cams.   S&S 570, Andrews 55g's Woods tw6gh.    

While these are options available to you I must ask why you wouldnt have downshifted built up the speed a bit as well as the rpm's and then tried 5th gear which is normally used as a highway gear / cruising gear   ie 1:1 ratio

Things to recommend which haven't really changed over time

Mapping  Tuning
For Torque down low a 2 into 1 pipe
SE Air Filter / Ness Big Sucker / Zippers /  
Cam's   Harley chain drive or GEAR Drive
Head work
Gearing changes / and or a 6 speed to offset this for highway
As examples 24 tooth or 21 tooth front counter sprocket, 37 tooth clutch basket, 29 tooth front belt pulley etc etc
Larger Throttle Body  

Gotta pay to play   If I can help with anything let me know.

[hd-dude]

srqseeg, you need to be wringing that thing out some more, man!