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[RedFXR2]

Does this help?

[elvislee]

Now ladies and gentlemen this is a photo worth saving 

Mikey, with a lady like that behind ya in your underwear...You be da man!!!..Help me!!!! I can't stop laughing   

[elvislee]

Does this help?

Hey...Is that where Tim and Paul live? 

[RedFXR2]

Good eye.  I got that from a Fort Collins, Colorado travelogue.  That scene is looking out over the Great Plains.  The Rocky Mountains would be behind you in that view.  Of course, this photo was taken in the summer.

















NOT!!!

 

[RedFXR2]

Actually, it DOES look a little like Mobile Bay.

Well, I said a little.

I mean, there IS water in it.

[elvislee]

Actually, it DOES look a little like Mobile Bay.

Well, I said a little.

I mean, there IS water in it.

Mike....TRUST ME MAN....PLEASE!!!.....MOBILE BAY looks NOTHING like that.

[fxr4mikey]

~~

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your cursor next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your cursor on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

HAHAHAHHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA 

LMFAO  !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



 




Tim ......... YOU ARE ONE FUNNY GUY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[fxr4mikey]

Now ladies and gentlemen this is a photo worth saving 

Mikey, with a lady like that behind ya in your underwear...You be da man!!!..Help me!!!! I can't stop laughing   

That Tim is a FUNNY Guy huh Blaine !!!!!!

 

[fxr4mikey]

 
I can't work on it right now because (this time I have a LIST of excuses  )

1) it's 25 degrees out in the garrage
2) I didn't know about the RED Flannel Long Johns until AFTER it was already COLD so I don't have any of them
3) Given the state of number 2, I don't have a young lady heating up my arse either, which would encourage me to be in the garage
4) I don't have any Hylomar on hand, but I ordered it this morning,  DAYUM that stuff is EXPENSIVE, is there gold in it ??
5) I don't have the gaskets for the lifter blocks, an oversight on my part
6) My Indy still has my jugs and pistons

Other than that, I'm ready to GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

[fxr4mikey]

 
I got my cam back from my Indy, he put the OLD cam gear on the NEW cam


Here's the work that he did.
Took the gears off the old and new cams. Put the old gear on the new cam.

Last week he told me to check the cam shaft end play after I removed the lifter blocks and BEFORE I opened the cam chest. Bring that measurement with me when I brought in the cams.

Sidebar:
You check this using this method. AFTER you remove the lifters, and lifter blocks. Reach down into the cam chest with your fingers and push the camshaft all the over to the left - out away from the crankcase side of the engine towards the cam chest cover. Make sure you push it all the way over.  Take a feeler gauge and place it between the thrust washer and the end of the camshaft. Adjust your feeler gauge until you just feel friction on both sides of the gauge. Now you know how much 'END PLAY' you have in your camshaft.


I did, it was .018 inches of end play. Friends and other 'wrenches' say it should be about 10-12 ..... service manual, unless I'm reading it wrong, and I read this SEVERAL TIMES (cause I couldn't believe what I was reading. Says that cam shaft end play is .001 to .050 inches ..... that seems like A LOT of end play.

So, anyway, I told my Indy what it was, he said that .010 would be MUCH better, and what did I want him to set it to, I said .010

So, Wed. I picked up the cam (and old parts too) and he said that he measured the length of both cams, took into account that I already had .018, and put on a .060 (or .065 i forget) shim.

Yesterday I installed the cam and put the cover on, with gasket and 3 bolts. I measured the end play, I was IMPRESSED !!! .010 inches !!!!

so far, so good .... hope this is an indication of things to come

[fxr4mikey]

This is another method that I'll seriously consider for breaking in my build .... I am putting in Hastings rings, why not follow their advice/directions

(yes, I lifted this from the V-Twin Forum)

On start-up what you are trying to determin, is if the tolerances were held and if parts are going to seize and/or colide. Bringing the engine up to temperature will allow you the opportunity to adjust those parts that require adjusting after heating, befor you put the engine into service.

For break in there are only two surfaces requiring this, the rings and the cylinders. If your using Hastings rings I recommend you follow Haistings procedure. It is C&P'd below. One has to assume that Hastings knows more about Hastings rings then anyone.

BREAK-IN PROCEDURE


STARTING PROCEDURE
1. Set tappets, adjust carburetor and ignition timing as accurately as possible before starting engine.

2. Start engine and set throttle to an engine speed of approximately 25 miles per hour (trucks, tractors and stationary engines one-third throttle) until the engine coolant reaches normal operating temperature. Then shut down engine and retorque cylinder head bolts, recheck carburetor adjustments, ignition timing and valve tappet clearance. (Run engine at fast idle during warm-up period to assure adequate initial lubrication for piston rings, pistons and cylinders.)

BREAK-IN PROCEDURE

1. Make a test run at 30 miles per hour and accelerate at full throttle to 50 miles per hour. Repeat the acceleration cycle from 30 to 50 miles per hour at least ten times. No further break-in is necessary. If traffic conditions will not permit this procedure, accelerate the engine rapidly several times through the intermediate gears during the check run. The object is to apply a load to the engine for short periods of time and in rapid succession soon after engine warm up. This action thrusts the piston rings against the cylinder wall with increased pressure and results in accelerated ring seating.

2. Following the breaking-in, turn the vehicle over to the owner or operator with the following suggestions:

PASSENGER CAR AND LIGHT TRUCK
Drive vehicle normally but avoid sustained high speed during the first 100 miles.

HEAVY DUTY TRUCKS AND BUSES
If possible, place in light duty for first 50 miles. At no time should the engine be lugged. Lugging is said to exist when the engine does not respond to further depression of the accelerator.

FARM TRACTORS
Operate at one-half load or less for the first two hours.

(P33)

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTi..._procedure.htm

[FXR2evo99]

Ok so here is a question......Mikey with all of those bolts that have been "unfastened".....for your entire build process let's say there are approximately 72 (well at least on a Twin Cam there are) if you are removing both rocker covers and removing the cylinder heads and replacing a cam.....

With these aprx 72 bolts (this question is for anyone) what do you guys do after removal of the bolts, my point is do you guys clean each bolt or not....and if you do clean them how do you do it....I don't think the indys or the dealers are cleaning bolts...lol...

So I am curious if any of you really clean your bolts?   Many of the bolts being removed during a process like this have previously been "blue" or "red" loctited.....so they have "gunk" on them.....and if you do clean them how do you go about it, and if you don't why don't you?  And if you think it's important....and we know the dealers or the indys aren't going to take the time clean bolts.....what's your opinion of that?

Regards,

Tim

[fxr4mikey]

 
OK, I've made a couple of posts about 'BREAKING-IN' my new build.
I've been doing some research on this matter.  You will not be supprised to know that there are as many ideas, thoughts, suggestions, methods, and granny tales on this matter as there are webpages to find them.

This is the method that I'm going to use ...... don't try to change my mind, I've already decided on it ......
Read this page .....

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I found it to be very interesting, and have decided to use this method.

Of course I'll be posting up the results
1) after the break in
2) after 200 miles
3) after 1K miles
4) after 5K miles

This should be interesting .... well, to me anyways   

 

[sadunbar]

Ok so here is a question......Mikey with all of those bolts that have been "unfastened".....for your entire build process let's say there are approximately 72 (well at least on a Twin Cam there are) if you are removing both rocker covers and removing the cylinder heads and replacing a cam.....

With these aprx 72 bolts (this question is for anyone) what do you guys do after removal of the bolts, my point is do you guys clean each bolt or not....and if you do clean them how do you do it....I don't think the indys or the dealers are cleaning bolts...lol...

So I am curious if any of you really clean your bolts?   Many of the bolts being removed during a process like this have previously been "blue" or "red" loctited.....so they have "gunk" on them.....and if you do clean them how do you go about it, and if you don't why don't you?  And if you think it's important....and we know the dealers or the indys aren't going to take the time clean bolts.....what's your opinion of that?

Regards,

Tim

I clean or replace the fasteners...wire brush, wire wheel, brake kleen or some combination....  And I tap out the holes with an undersize tap - remove gunk without cutting metal...   

[RedFXR2]

I clean or replace the fasteners...wire brush, wire wheel, brake kleen or some combination....  And I tap out the holes with an undersize tap - remove gunk without cutting metal...   

This is exactly what I do...and no, no dealer would go to this much trouble.

I would add that I have used these opportunities in the past to replace old fasteners with chrome or stainless.  If you're going to want to do that, now's the time.