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[hdctss]

my oil pressure when hot at 2000 rpm indicates about 18 psig on the fairing gauge.
with a mechanical gauge it indicates 32 psig at 2000 rpm.

my dealer has replaced the gauge, sending unit, and bypassed the wiring.
they think it is the heat of the engine affecting the resistance of the sending unit.

does anybody else have a similar problem?

[ultrafxr]

Nope.  45k and oil pressure reads A-OK.

[AXIL]

i've seen one bad gauge and about fifty bad sending units, i would try replacing the sending unit again.      
                                                                                          axil

[igofar]

Where are you tapping into the oiling system with your mechanical gauge?
If you are not already, install the mechanical gauge inplace of the OEM sending unit.
That way the test gauge is seeing exactly the same oil pressure as your original gauge...


Brad

[Dan_Lockwood]

Where are you tapping into the oiling system with your mechanical gauge?
If you are not already, install the mechanical gauge in place of the OEM sending unit.That way the test gauge is seeing exactly the same oil pressure as your original gauge...


Brad

I agree with Brad, but maybe with a twist to his suggestion.  Just for testing purposes, or if you plan to leave the mechanical gauge installed, put a "T" in the case and hook both sender and mechanical tap to the same spot in the case.  Then you can monitor both at the same time under the same heat condition and rpms.

Over the years a good rule of thumb has always been 10 psi for 1000 rpms.  I understand that V-twins tend to run less than the norm because of the roller bearings etc, so 18 psi at 2000 rpms is still an OK pressure.  If nothing else just use the dash gauge and know you're good to go.  If the dash gauge drops to 10 psi you can then be concerned.

[sadunbar]

I agree with Brad, but maybe with a twist to his suggestion.  Just for testing purposes, or if you plan to leave the mechanical gauge installed, put a "T" in the case and hook both sender and mechanical tap to the same spot in the case.  Then you can monitor both at the same time under the same heat condition and rpms.

Over the years a good rule of thumb has always been 10 psi for 1000 rpms.  I understand that V-twins tend to run less than the norm because of the roller bearings etc, so 18 psi at 2000 rpms is still an OK pressure.  If nothing else just use the dash gauge and know you're good to go.  If the dash gauge drops to 10 psi you can then be concerned.

naaa...  don't let it go...  something is wrong somewhere in the chain...   don't learn to live with it...  Take your time, problem solve, troubleshoot - diagnose - and fix it!   

[AXIL]

sadunbar, .     axil

[igofar]

One more thing to add.
Make sure your dealership knows that YOU KNOW about the crankshaft issues these engines are having.......
The first signs of crank problems show up at the oil pump.

Just sayin.....

Brad (been there..)

[sportygordy]

my oil pressure when hot at 2000 rpm indicates about 18 psig on the fairing gauge.
with a mechanical gauge it indicates 32 psig at 2000 rpm.

my dealer has replaced the gauge, sending unit, and bypassed the wiring.
they think it is the heat of the engine affecting the resistance of the sending unit.

does anybody else have a similar problem?

Prior to installing my Jim's motor, I had similar readings with the stock motor on the fairing gauge between idle and 2000 rpm, then maxed at 40 PSI. The dealer checked everything out and said normal for oil pressure to drop below 20 psi between idle and 2000 rpm. I tell him my 2004 runs higher oil pressure under same conditions, he said must be the gauge because they checked it with a shop gauge. Now my new Jim's motor runs a solid 45 PSI and drops to 30 ish at idle with the same fairing gauge. So the difference must be the guage  Yea Right, don't trust your dealer. 

[Texas 103]

Prior to installing my Jim's motor, I had similar readings with the stock motor on the fairing gauge between idle and 2000 rpm, then maxed at 40 PSI. The dealer checked everything out and said normal for oil pressure to drop below 20 psi between idle and 2000 rpm. I tell him my 2004 runs higher oil pressure under same conditions, he said must be the gauge because they checked it with a shop gauge. Now my new Jim's motor runs a solid 45 PSI and drops to 30 ish at idle with the same fairing gauge. So the difference must be the guage  Yea Right, don't trust your dealer. 

Like others have said check the usual stuff , if it's ok , then a Baisley LMR-2 spring come to mind...

[grc]

my oil pressure when hot at 2000 rpm indicates about 18 psig on the fairing gauge.
with a mechanical gauge it indicates 32 psig at 2000 rpm.

my dealer has replaced the gauge, sending unit, and bypassed the wiring.
they think it is the heat of the engine affecting the resistance of the sending unit.

does anybody else have a similar problem?

I still question if that mechanical gauge mentioned was accurate and was used under the exact same conditions, or was it installed and the engine just run for a short period that didn't get everything as hot as when you were riding?  I think I suggested this once before, but the best way to take all the variables out of the mix is to use a T fitting to connect the sending unit and a verified accurate mechanical gauge to the same source at the same time.  Run the engine until it's hot enough to show the low pressure on the fairing gauge, and immediately compare with the mechanical gauge.  This takes all the who-shot-john out of the situation (assuming the mechanical gauge is calibrated and accurate). 

Since there is no widespread known problem with sending units, if the dealer really thinks this is a sending unit problem he should have changed it a second time.  Even better, remove the sender from one of their bikes that doesn't exhibit the same problem.  Once again, substituting a known good part takes all the guessing out of the situation.  Right now they have just changed a bunch of parts and still have no clue.  This is unfortunately typical of the modern "tech", just replace parts until something hopefully fixes the problem.  However, when they've replaced all the obvious parts and still haven't impacted the problem, this modern method falls on it's butt.

Jerry

[Hoist!]

This can easily be checked with an accurate inline gauge in the oil lines. OP should be checked that way for accuracy anyway, as opposed to using the bike's gauge.

Hoist!

[Rooster]

Like others have said check the usual stuff , if it's ok , then a Baisley LMR-2 spring come to mind...

Since adding the Baisley spring my oil presssure snaps right up on start up and holds higher at idle when hot where the stock would drop to nothing at idle at when hot.

[wcgrinder]

Good idea.Replace the spring I have had lots of trouble with the pressure relief valve. Ez to do and you can check the crank for runnout at the same time.     

[sportygordy]

Good idea.Replace the spring I have had lots of trouble with the pressure relief valve. Ez to do and you can check the crank for runnout at the same time.     

Emm, I wonder if Jim's included the spring improvement with their motors? As i quoted in earlier post, the Jim's motor runs a higher and more stable oil pressure over stock. just curious??