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[tmitchellofpg]

I have a 2005 SE Fat Boy, almost 2 years ago  I had started the bike up leaving a business and rode it home about 15 miles. The whole time my tach and speedometer wasn't working. That never happened before or since then until today. I was still under warranty and brought it to the dealership, the next day.
When I started it at home to go get it fixed, the tach and speedometer worked fine again. I brought it in anyway. Two hours later they called and said they found a loose wire.
Today almost 2 years and 8,000 miles later, I had just left a place, looked down and the tach and speedometer weren't working. Less then a minute later I looked down and they were working again.

Any suggestions on where I should look for a loose wire? Do you think it could be in the ignition switch? Next time it happens, I will pull over and turn the ignition switch off and on to see if that gets them working again.
Thanks for any input.
Tom

[jfh]

I've seen it happen when the rocker Run/Stop switch is used to kill the ignition. Try using the ignition switch instead and the problem may not return.

[AXIL]

  check under the dash. before you push in on the connectors try pulling out on them to see if they are loose.   
 push and pull on the connectors when looking at the speedo with the ign. on and see if anything happens. 
 let us know what you find.                               axil                             

[grc]

  check under the dash. before you push in on the connectors try pulling out on them to see if they are loose.   
 push and pull on the connectors when looking at the speedo with the ign. on and see if anything happens. 
 let us know what you find.                               axil                             

It's not uncommon on the bikes with the gauges in the tank canopy (dash) to have corrosion problems at the wiring connections and at the ignition switch.  Remove the canopy and check the connections as Axil suggested by lightly pulling and pushing each wire to make sure there isn't a wire terminal not seated in the connector.  If you find one the first order of business is to get the wire terminal to seat into the connector so it won't pull out.  That may just require reseating the terminal into the connector, or you may wind up replacing the connector if the internal lock is broken.  If this isn't the problem, I would then disconnect all the connectors and look for moisture and corrosion.  Carefully clean any corrosion you find (don't enlarge the female half of the terminals), dry out any moisture, apply a liberal coating of dielectric grease to seal out moisture in the future, and reconnect all the connectors.  Even if you find a loose wire in the initial check, I would take the opportunity while everything is apart to clean, dry, and grease the connections to prevent problems in the future.

Jerry

[tmitchellofpg]

Thanks for the replies. I was going to ride the bike, until it happens again, but since it just happened today I'm sure it will happen again, at an inconvenient time.
I was looking at the wiring diagrams, in my service manual. It looked to me that if my tach and speedometer went out temporarily, due to a loose connection at the ignition switch, then I must have also lost my signals and brake light.  I hadn't given any thought to that.
Tomorrow I will check the ignition switch connections. I will test them with the battery connected, even though the manual says to disconnect the battery. I'll just make sure I don't touch the wires to anything.
Thanks again,
Tom

[2018_FLTRXSE]

When my 03 Fatboy did that it was prior to the ignition switch failing.... (Corroded/dirty contacts)

I replaced the switch and it has been fine since.

After I replaced the switch I disassembled the original and found corrosion and crap on the contacts... I did clean it up and keep it as a spare should I need one in a pinch.

[Bikin' Bob]

I was on a business trip to Richmond once from GA. The intermittent on and off like you describe happened on my was up there.  I took it to a dealer up there and they diagnosed it as a faulty module and replaced it ($500).  It worked fine for the few days up there.  On my return trip it started again but eventually they staid off and then the check engine light came on.  I was running on battery at this point and got off I-95 just in time before it died.  Turns out my alternator/stator completely blew.  Boy did it stink.  Got it towed to an HD dealer in Burlington, NC.  The mechanic said that in likelihood the burned out module on the up leg was probably due to the alternator starting to go bad and it finally went out using interstate speeds.  This was on my 01 nonCVO UC with about 60k on it in 2005.  What's the point here?  Namely, you may want to see if the speedo module is faulty and/or have your voltage regulator through to the alternator tested.

Bikin' Bob

[Beary]

Sounds like a speedometer sensor. That is the plug right by the starter. Remove it with an allen wrench and clean it. Its magnetic, so you will see a lot of metal filings that are starting to short it out. Just wipe them off with a rag and it will likely start working again. Takes about 2 minutes.

Beary

[tmitchellofpg]

Sounds like a speedometer sensor. That is the plug right by the starter. Remove it with an allen wrench and clean it. Its magnetic, so you will see a lot of metal filings that are starting to short it out. Just wipe them off with a rag and it will likely start working again. Takes about 2 minutes.

Beary

The first time I had the problem, about 2 years ago, I removed the sensor and checked it. It didn't have any filings, on the magnetic end. Then I took it in to the dealer, since it was still under warranty and they said they found a loose wire. I should have asked them where  the loose wire was. I had to use the bike, so I rode it today without any problems. Tomorrow I'll check the ignition switch if it appears to be okay, I'll check the sensor again.
Thanks,
Tom

[tmitchellofpg]

When my 03 Fatboy did that it was prior to the ignition switch failing.... (Corroded/dirty contacts)

I replaced the switch and it has been fine since.

After I replaced the switch I disassembled the original and found corrosion and crap on the contacts... I did clean it up and keep it as a spare should I need one in a pinch.

That's what I'll do tomorrow. Check that the wires are seated properly at the connections. If they are, I'll take the switch apart and look for corrosion.
Thanks,
Tom

[TimBone]

Not a FatBoy owner, but my 07 SEUC did it too and turned out to be the TMAT.
Needed a software update and has been good ever since.
Not sure what you are running, but just thought I would throw that in there.

Tim

[tmitchellofpg]

I just got done checking things and couldn't find anything obviously wrong. The first thing I did was take the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) out. The magnetic plug was very clean. I could just barely feel some metal in with the oil on it.
I wiped it off and put it back in.
Then I took the dash off and disconnected the ignition switch. None of the wires were loose. There was no sign of corrosion on the ignition switch, so I didn't take it apart.
I will keep riding the bike and see if the problem reoccurs. Now I know a bit more as to what to look for. if the speedometer and tach stop working and the turn signals don't self cancel, I will get a new VSS. If my brake lights and signals go out with tach and speedometer, I will get a new ignition switch.
Thanks,
Tom