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[rswitzerjr]

   I'm wanting to put a set of Ape's on my 03 S/E Roadking... The only thing is I cannot find a set dimmpled on the left hand side for the hydro. clutch resivor.... I bought a set of burly bars for internal wiring and took them to a well known machine shop but they were not able to help put the dimple on the left side successfully... However those bars are no longer any good. If you know of anyone who makes 16-18 inch Ape's for the hydro. clutch and internal wiring please let me know....  
                                                                                 Thanks, Ronnie

[Laker]

These guys will do it for you. The extra cost is only $25. If you look at the top of the page, the 4th sentence mentions the hyd. clutch.

HYDRAULIC CLUTCH? WILD 1 CHUBBYS

[rswitzerjr]

Thanks Laker....
 I've called and placed my order already.....
    You were a great help

[Laker]

You're welcome. Glad it worked out.  [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

[d-rock]

I have the 16 inch burley apes and they fit perfect on my 03'  good luck

[SPIDERMAN]

Hope all you guys puttin apes on your SERKs are using a one piece clamp on the risers.The two piece clamps give you a real spongy drifty feel which is the front end trying to catch up to what your hands want it to do.

[Mikey]

I have the 16 inch burley apes and they fit perfect on my 03'

[d-rock]

New risers with a one peice clamp,  and I pinned the bars to the clamp so they can not twist in the clamp. and yes had to extend everything.

[SPIDERMAN]

I know this is gonna sound like I'm talkin down at y'all, but when you extend the wires, cut em in the middle and splice in whatever you need based on the increase in height of your bars ( Stock bars have a 4" rise, so 12" apes would need an 8" section added etc)  That way, if you don't have all the right color wires to use, no problem, your wires will be the same colors on both ends AND you don't have to add new pins and crimp em. Solder the splice, put a small section of shrink tuning over it and when you're all done, shrink tube the whole bundle. By the way, if you have trouble with your wiring and are looking to find the culprit, check the crimps first. Most times these loosen up from assembling and disassembling the connections. Unless you can't solder worth a chit, your splices will probably not be the problem. Extending the brake lines requires a new T below the lower triple tree. The stocker is a one piece so you can't just extend from the junction to the bars, you have to do the whole deal. All this stuff is sold plus 8 or plus 12 or whatever. so just figure as I said above. The whole deal wiil cost you about $700 for parts

[naitram]

also whe you do the slices you should stagger them slightly so that they dont sit on top of each other

should look something like this + = solder connection

---+--------+---------
-----+--------+-------
--------+--------+----
-----------+--------+-

[Mikey]

Sounds like good advice on the wiring.
Thanks for the info Spiderman!

[SPIDERMAN]

Hey Naitram Thanks for addin that last little bit. I left that part out That's real important for sure since the wires have to fit inside the bars. Gotta tell you, once you've ridden ocean to ocean with a nice set of apes, you'll wonder why in the hell you rode without em for years as I did. 12" is perfect to me, but I understand that god didn't make us all the same size, Still, the guy that blasted by me in OK with a set of 24 inchers and his hands above his shoulders had me smilin. One nice thing though, when the cops stop him he's already got his hands where they can see em

[The Mysterious Q!]

My question although it may be redundant, I'm deciding between 10 and 12 inch apes.I had 16's on my last bike but I dont want to go that high with these. Here it goes,what type of solid clamp will work and still fit under the chrome trim piece.Next the harness isn't a problem to extend I've done that before,but what length over do I go with for cables use the 12" apes as a benchmark.Do you need to extend cruise control and if so how or is it just a splice like the rest.Spidey said in an earlier post that stock is 4" rise so then I would need 8"over on the cabling but would 6" over work as well so you could get stock over length cables.Also is there anything else I should know before I tackle this,because all my knowledge is on my 99 Fatboy.Any tricks or steps I should take.  Thanks,  Q

[naitram]

all stock cabeling worked for 10" bars had to re-route throttle a bit but it worked. so for 12" bars you should be able to use stock+2. as for clamps the SERK came with a 1 piece and it fits under the cover so i would htink most any clamp would fit

[SPIDERMAN]

BigDaddy   I had to do some work on my one piece clamp to get it to find under the riser cover that comes on a SERK with the tach attached. The bolts of the tach hit the clamp so I put some putty on the clamp and pushed the cover down over it to mark where it was hitting. I then drilled the places where the bolts hit just enough to clear and ground down the outer edges of the clamp. It works great and I've got almost 7,000 miles on it since I did the work with no sign of weakness from the clamp. Be careful not to take too much meat off the clamp or you'll defeat the purpose of a single clamp. Also, here's a little tip whenever you take that cover and the narcelle seam strip off.  The screw/nut/washer on the headlight side of the riser cover- - - start it off the bike, leave the two halves of the narcelle loose and slide the cover with the screw/nut/washer into place then tighten the narcelle bolts and then the cover screws. Took me a skinnin my knuckes more than once trying to start that little freakin nut way up inside the narcelle before I figured this out.Also, soapin the tach gasket lets the tach slide in an out easy until you get everything in place and lined up. Let us know how you made out.