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[SE-Randy]

I plan on changing out my stock bars for Heritage bars. Two questions does the whole faring have to be removed as I am thinking it will? Will I need longer cables or lines for any or everything? Dealer says he is not sure, but I don't really want to start a project on a "not sure"

Thanks for any help,

Randy

[porthole]

Randy

On your bike, the small inner lower fairing under the ignition switch has to come off. Once there you can get to your bar clamp.

Are your replacement bars longer - wider - higher?

Common replacement on our bikes are Wild One 575's
Doing these bars requires a longer brake line, repositioning of the clutch line and longer idle/throttle cables.

While in there your could replace the riser bushing with poly bushings and I would recommend you replace the 2 piece bar clamp with a single piece clamp.

Plan on 4-6 hours. Most of the time is spent taking the harness' apart - running them through the bars and re-assembling.

As long as we are helping you spend your money look into a set of Heat Demons heated grips, many of us have them and they work great.

It doesn't make sense to do all this work and then 2 weeks later decide to add the Heat Demons - don't ask me how I know.

[SE-Randy]

That sounds a lot like the voice of experience to me. I may have to look at that, the only thing that does get cold is my finger tips. Living in the south I am blessed with mild enought winters I can keep everything else warm with layers.

I am looking at installing stock Heritage Softail bars, I think they are up 1" and back 1-2". Being 5'10" I am reaching just a bit for the stock bars.

Thanks again Porthole. I guess I should just PM you with the questions, you seem to always be the first to reply

[JCZ]

Just a head's up......

You might not like the position of the grips on the stock Heritage bars........they're not the same.  I and many others switched from the stock Heritage bars, when we owned Heritage.  I don't know of one person that changed to stock Heritage bars.

Also, the stock Heritage bars are not chrome.....you might want to consider Wild Ones or a couple other makes.  It sounds like you're looking for a bar that's closer to the rider in reach?

[SE-Randy]

Exactly JCZ. I had a 99 Ultra and I thought the bars had been changed out to Heritage bars, but could be wrong. I haven't been able to get in touch with the guy that set the bike up. That's for the heads up, I'll try harder to confirm the bars before going any further.

Thanks

[efrbc1]

"Stock" Heritage bars will not fit the E-Glides.  They are not wide enough at the bottom to fit with the fairing.  The inside width on the bottom needs to be about 13".  Like Porthole wrote it does take some time and the top clamp replacement is a must do as well as throttle cables and brake lines.

I just finished installing Khrome Werks +2 Sweepers on mine and I am loving this bike all over again!!  My only downside was that they are not drilled for internal wiring.  A drill press and a Dremel tool made it easy but it took about 1-2 hours extra.  The best part is that the Sweepers are good quality (chrome) and were only $60.  I'm 6' and they are perfect for me - up about 1 1/2" and back aboy 2 1/2" with a more neutral (straight) wrist position.  I have Heritage bars on my RK and the Sweepers are similar but back further.

Good luck with your project!

Chris

[JCZ]

Exactly JCZ. I had a 99 Ultra and I thought the bars had been changed out to Heritage bars, but could be wrong. I haven't been able to get in touch with the guy that set the bike up. That's for the heads up, I'll try harder to confirm the bars before going any further.

Thanks

They may have been HD's Touring Pullbacks (2" closer to the rider) but those will not work with the hydraulic clutch that's on the SEEG.

[CVOjunkie]

I have the Harley pullback reduced reach bars on my 04 seeg and had no problem with the hyd. clutch even though Harley says it will not work I did have to replace the front brake line everything else worked with a little finesse

[SE-Randy]

The more I know, the more I know, I don't know! Just whenI thought I knew what I wanted sheeez.... Thanks for all the input guys really So with the Krome Werks do I have to swap out any clamps or anything? What about brake, clutch and throttle lines and cables?

[SE-Randy]

What is the supposed problem with the clutch?

[efrbc1]

Khrome Werks will require a longer (new) front brake line and throttle cables.  I'm pretty sure most anything higher/more pullback than stock will.  There is about 3" of "extra" play in the clutch line inside the fairing which worked fine for me.  The top clamp is extra insurance against the bar breaking between the stock (two-piece) clamp.  This is not an inexpensive thing to do.  Doing my own labor I spent about $350 and that's with $60 handlebars.

For me it was well worth it.

Chris

[porthole]

That sounds a lot like the voice of experience to me.

There is a wealth of experience on this site.

Thanks again Porthole. I guess I should just PM you with the questions, you seem to always be the first to reply :2 vrolijk _21:

You would best to post here rather then PM's. It is easy enough for some one responding to miss something and if you only PM then you lose the opportunity for someone else to respond.
And it is good for everyone interested to see what is going on.

Being 5'10" I am reaching just a bit for the stock bars.

Same here.

The Wild One 575's are a very popular alternative. I think everyone that has installed them thought they were great.

The WO 575's are about 1.5 " higher 1.5" further back 1.5" wider and they are bent at a different angle so as to keep your wrists more in line with your forearm.

And - they are 1 1/4" tubes - so they look a heck of a lot better then stock bars.

The picture below wasn't taken to show the bars - but as you can see, there is a difference. The green bike has stock bars.

[JCZ]

The one-piece top clamp is just a safety feature and very easy to do, since you have to remove the two-pieces top clamps to change the bars anyway.....it's no more work.  Just a few bucks for the one piece but the labor is the same.

If you don't change it.....you run the risk of experiencing what I experienced on an 86 Heritage at freeway speed..........all of a sudden only one bar was attached and I was just kind of holding the other one (trying to figure out what the hell just happened).  Fortunately, I got stopped without going down but I always went with the one piece any time I was changing bars, after that little pucker event.

[efrbc1]

Just an FYI on part numbers if you decide to change bars.  The following are what I used:
Brake line - 45252-04
Throttle/Idle cables - 56778-04
Top clamp - 55918-08

The cables can be hard to find (HD has updated to Diamondback cables - more$$) but if you look hard enough they can be found.

Chris

[SE-Randy]

Thanks for all the input guys! Only problem it's kind of like paint...TOO many choices. May wait until after the Eureka GTG and looking at some of your set ups. Don't mind doing this, but don't want to have to do it a 2nd time. Any of you that have done this type of mod going to Thunder on the Beach or the Eureka Springs GTG?