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[grc]

The only advantage I can think of for the cable version is the ability to fine tune the engagement point.  Everything else is a disadvantage, as in broken clutch cables out in the middle of Bumf@#k Egypt, cleaning/lubing/adjusting the cables on a regular basis, etc.  Hydraulics are the way to go, but for those who prefer nostalgia I plan to work up a retro rear brake package with drum brakes and a rod connected to the pedal to go along with the cable operated clutch. 

BTW, if you have clutch drag which affects finding neutral or makes certain shifts difficult, you need to make absolutely certain that there is no air anywhere in the system.  Bleed the line at the fitting to the master cylinder first, then at the bleeder valve at the actuator.  If it still drags, remove the clutch inspection cover (derby) and measure the total travel of the release rod.  It must travel at least 1.65 mm (0.065") when the lever is pulled to the grip.  If it doesn't, there is still some air trapped somewhere or you have a mechanical issue in either the master cylinder or actuator.

I won't mention the out-of-flat clutch plates that also create drag, since those have been common with either type of release mechanism.

Jerry

[Gecko]

The Hydraulic clutch engagement is trick only. Honestly, after having both, I like the clutch cable better. My bike is very hard to find neutral stopped, like my old shovel FX was.
Only this time there is nothing I can do about it. I don't hate it. But, I've had better, let's put it that way..

What are you using in the transmission and primary?  I had Mobil 1 V-twin in both and had difficulty getting neutral at a stop.  When I put Redline in the trans and their primary fluid in the other hole the problem disappeared immediately.  I suspect the transmission was the main difference.  When I got my '07 the clutch was very grabby, the engagement zone was almost instantaneous.  After a few thousand miles it got a lot better.

[Mr D]

The only advantage I can think of for the cable version is the ability to fine tune the engagement point.  Everything else is a disadvantage, as in broken clutch cables out in the middle of Bumf@#k Egypt, cleaning/lubing/adjusting the cables on a regular basis, etc.  Hydraulics are the way to go, but for those who prefer nostalgia I plan to work up a retro rear brake package with drum brakes and a rod connected to the pedal to go along with the cable operated clutch. 

BTW, if you have clutch drag which affects finding neutral or makes certain shifts difficult, you need to make absolutely certain that there is no air anywhere in the system.  Bleed the line at the fitting to the master cylinder first, then at the bleeder valve at the actuator.  If it still drags, remove the clutch inspection cover (derby) and measure the total travel of the release rod.  It must travel at least 1.65 mm (0.065") when the lever is pulled to the grip.  If it doesn't, there is still some air trapped somewhere or you have a mechanical issue in either the master cylinder or actuator.

I won't mention the out-of-flat clutch plates that also create drag, since those have been common with either type of release mechanism.

Jerry

When installing the SE six speed gear set on my CUSE, I installed a energy one clutch plate kit (check link below)
and Redline Heavyshock proof gear oil and MTl primary oil,,,, Very satisfied with the marriage of both. 
http://energyoneclutches.com/product.php?productid=15&cat=9&page=1

[Jbbrown73]

Does the clutch master cylinder also take DOT4 fluid?

[Smuuth]

Does the clutch master cylinder also take DOT4 fluid?

Yes.

 

[Scooterleg]

I have a 07 FXSTSSE. The Clutch has not been serviced since new, and perhaps this is my problem. This spring, I pulled the cover off and got the Springer out and went to start it. No problem. Pulled the clutch lever in and shifted to first and the bike lurched forward and stalled the motor. I found that the cluch isn't operating. If it were a cable style, its acting like the cable is broke. Last fall when I put the bike away for the winter, the clutch was working fine.

I pulled the clutch lever resovoir lid off to inspect the fluid level. It is full.

Anyone got any ideas what I should do here? I have no idea if there is air in the line, nor any idea how air would have got in there.

New to servicing Hydraulic clutches.

[Twolanerider]

I have a 07 FXSTSSE. The Clutch has not been serviced since new, and perhaps this is my problem. This spring, I pulled the cover off and got the Springer out and went to start it. No problem. Pulled the clutch lever in and shifted to first and the bike lurched forward and stalled the motor. I found that the cluch isn't operating. If it were a cable style, its acting like the cable is broke. Last fall when I put the bike away for the winter, the clutch was working fine.

I pulled the clutch lever resovoir lid off to inspect the fluid level. It is full.

Anyone got any ideas what I should do here? I have no idea if there is air in the line, nor any idea how air would have got in there.

New to servicing Hydraulic clutches.

No difference in thought than any other small hydraulic system.  Just a master cylinder on top and a slave cylinder at the bottom.  Try bleeding it first.  Do four or five slow pumps then crack the bleeder.  Repeat serveral times and see if it makes any difference.

If the slave cylinder in the tranny side cover has failed you'll lose fluid inside the transmission.  So if the fluid level goes down but you've not gained any clutch action that's your hint.

[dlaws01]

I have a 07 FXSTSSE. The Clutch has not been serviced since new, and perhaps this is my problem. This spring, I pulled the cover off and got the Springer out and went to start it. No problem. Pulled the clutch lever in and shifted to first and the bike lurched forward and stalled the motor. I found that the cluch isn't operating. If it were a cable style, its acting like the cable is broke. Last fall when I put the bike away for the winter, the clutch was working fine.

I pulled the clutch lever resovoir lid off to inspect the fluid level. It is full.

Anyone got any ideas what I should do here? I have no idea if there is air in the line, nor any idea how air would have got in there.

New to servicing Hydraulic clutches.

Had the same problem on mine.  Just bled the air out of the system.  Get you several feet of clear hose, 1/8th inside diameter from Lowe's or Home Depot and slip it over the bleeder plug on the right side.  Cover your painted surfaces so you don't get the fluid on it.  If you do, get it off ASAP.  Remove your clutch reservoir cover and use a turkey baster to suck out most of the old fluid then add new fluid, slowly pump clutch several times and while holding the clutch lever in, slowly open the bleeder plug and watch for air bubbles and for your fluid to start running clean.  Remember to allow for expansion of fluid in the reservoir, as the clutch plates wear, more fluid stays in the reservoir. Just opposite of the brakes when they wear.

[timo482]

part of the problem is that as the engine gets larger the spring gets stiffer

originally the hyd clutch was to make the effort about the same on a stiff spring as a cable on a soft spring.

try a soft spring with a lock up - its not the hyd clutch that is stiff

to

[efrbc1]

Could be just "sticky" plates.  Try starting it and letting it warm up in neutral.  Pull the clutch lever in and hold it in for a bit to see if the plates loosen up.  Worked for me after mine sat for an extended period of time.

Chris

[Scooterleg]

Just wanted to say thanks to all the friends that gave tips on what to do here. I will be trying the "bleed" this week-end".

[ltank]

What is the average cost of kit for the older Evolution 5 to 6 speed conversion?
I have a Barnett Scorpian Clutch with about 500 lbs of tension on pressure plate.
Do they still use stock throughout bearings? Baker heavy duty TBK-56L? ?
Thanks
Ltank

[Aussie]

About to flush entire clutch systems for the first time and have a bottle of Dot 4 that has been opened a bit over a year now, bottle is 90% full and colour is clear with a very slight olive oil colour.

On the bottle is suggests to discard after one week from opening. I think it would be a waste of brake fluid however its not that expensive so do I purchase a new bottle or will what I have be OK?

[grc]

About to flush entire clutch systems for the first time and have a bottle of Dot 4 that has been opened a bit over a year now, bottle is 90% full and colour is clear with a very slight olive oil colour.

On the bottle is suggests to discard after one week from opening. I think it would be a waste of brake fluid however its not that expensive so do I purchase a new bottle or will what I have be OK?

Buy new.  Like you said, it isn't very expensive.  And that stuff sucks moisture out of the air like a sponge, so even if you think you had the bottle sealed up tight as a tick why take the chance?


Jerry

[Scooterleg]

Just to let everyone know my outcome. I found the bleeder nipple on the top of the transmission end cover. Hooked a hose up to it and fed the hose end into a jar. pumped the clutch lever about 5 times then bled some fluid out and cut off the flow. I repeated this a couple of times - thinking I would see a bubble or something - I never did. I checked the level in the resovoir and it had'nt gone down much. It was at the full line. I guess it may have been overserviced? could that have been my issue? After bleeding it a few times, the normal feel of the lever action seemed to return. So I called it good and have been riding it since  - All good.