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[HD Street Performance]

Scavenge oil goes back to sump. Bypass oil goes back to the suction side of the pump. Foam is normal as the temps rise. I am not saying it is good just that it exists. As the oil heats up viscosity thins and hotter oil retains air more readily. This causes lifters to bleed off on compression of the lifter and exhaust lift and duration is shortened. Exhaust held in and not released hot oil in the heads gets hotter. Not good. Later intake close (cam change lowers static and dynamic compression pressure, appropriate not excessive valve spring pressure helps), oil cooler, richer cruise AFR, and high quality motorcycle oil (summer temps 20w-60 or 50w) and the problem goes away assuming a free flowing exhaust system. BTW as the temps goe down a lot of the problems plagueing the 110 vanish too. I am seeing a lot of oil coming by the guides. The stock K-line seals suck literally. There is a new replacement valveseal that is viton to fix that.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

A lot of good to say about 50W Torco in the heat of summer riding.
Carrys a lot of zinc, MPZ package, and has anti-foaming properties.
Scott

[Iglide]

Scavenge oil goes back to sump. Bypass oil goes back to the suction side of the pump. Foam is normal as the temps rise. I am not saying it is good just that it exists. As the oil heats up viscosity thins and hotter oil retains air more readily. This causes lifters to bleed off on compression of the lifter and exhaust lift and duration is shortened. Exhaust held in and not released hot oil in the heads gets hotter. Not good. Later intake close (cam change lowers static and dynamic compression pressure, appropriate not excessive valve spring pressure helps), oil cooler, richer cruise AFR, and high quality motorcycle oil (summer temps 20w-60 or 50w) and the problem goes away assuming a free flowing exhaust system. BTW as the temps goe down a lot of the problems plagueing the 110 vanish too. I am seeing a lot of oil coming by the guides. The stock K-line seals suck literally. There is a new replacement valveseal that is viton to fix that.

Understood, Thanks
What is the number to stay below CC temp wise (give or take of few deg) ?

[ragrep]

AXI& Dewey,

 Thanks for the explanation. I also noticed this condition on my FLHX  and could never get a straight answer. On the 110 SERG I did notice more top end noise once bike got hot, and some loss of power, and a little different exhaust sound. Maybe the SYN3 doens't hold up well after its been heated beyond a certain point- seems to thin out quickly. Maybe my imagination.

Current oil temps are ranging in the 230's, head temps (measure either side of the spark plug)  are around 290/300 front and 320/330 rear- Non-cat header, 2" fullsacs- and downloaded map. I am scheduled for a proper tune wednesday, and I am due for the first service in a week or two and will swap out to the 20/60 in the crankcase- let you know how the cooling issues go.

[DESERTBEAR54]

Here in Arizona in the summer my oil temps reach 260+ degree's. Did it all last summer and now is in the 230+ range. Run's like a champ!! I am running 20/50 Amsoil in the motor.

[HD Street Performance]

As a point of reference at 250° conventional oil begins to break down very quickly. Synthetics are more resistant. With a good oil cooler (on the uptube) the motors can be held to 230°

[Iglide]

Thanks Dewey,

Believe I will proceed with a differant set of cams, see what happens. I am concerned that the 255s run this 110 way too hot. After the cam switch I will bring a reliable IR camera home from work to verify what my digital dip stick reads. Then I will know, what I need to do next.

Rob

[HDDOCFL]

As a point of reference at 250° conventional oil begins to break down very quickly. Synthetics are more resistant. With a good oil cooler (on the uptube) the motors can be held to 230°

Don   Whats your thought on the engine guard as a cooler vs the down tube set up.?  Thanks Doc

[jug-head]

Air bubbles in the oil tank are normal. Its the nature of a dry sump engine. One thing I've noticed in Shovels, Evo's and twin-cam's there has been little or no sludge build up in the rocker boxes. This leads me to believe that oil break down isn't that much of a problem. The twin-cam motor is partially oil cooled, why didn't the MOCO finish the job and put a temperature controlled oil cooler on from the factory? Probably the same bean counter that chose Chinese INA bearings forced the engineers to delete the cooler. Personally I put ducked tape over my oil cooler, when it gets hot enough to need it, the tape will blow off. I'm a cheap bastard.

[HD Street Performance]

The crash guard oil cooler IMO is OK most of the heat loss is by virtue of the added oil. Use that with a good Jagg cooler and the temps will go down significantly. As far as sludge with todays additive packages and the frequency of oil changes most observe I see no possibility of sludge buildup.
I agree the bikes should have them from day 1
The INA bearings, well they are a top shelf product from Germany. They offer a full compliment bearing too like the Timken Torrington, but HD chooses to use the light duty skip bearing. BTW the bearing issue may be an EVO legacy carry over and I am not convinced that once they went to the .875 journal that the problem even still exists

[HDDOCFL]

Well for the second time I have added the engine gaurd cooler to the HD premium cooler in paralle with no bull nose. Will see what I get for temps tomorrow on a trip I am taking to Leesburg bike weekend.  Doc.

[HDDOCFL]

PIC

[HDDOCFL]

another

[HDDOCFL]

With a canned map and the two coolers  with outside temps in the mid 80s, I am seeing 230* at highway speeds, I have not been able to get the temps lower than this, even running the cooler plumbing in series, and this engine gaurd cooler holds an extra Qt. on 20-60 Red Line which is now in the engine and it has 500 miles on it.  Doc

[HD Street Performance]

What is the tune? Are you using a SERT, factory download? I assume stock cams.