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[hard10]

Here's a little problem I encountered this afternoon. The check engine light and battery light came on. Bike was and is running fine. I looked at the voltmeter and it showed around 11v. Turned all the switches and GPS off and still had the same problem. I then powered on the GPS and changed the data field to voltage. It was recording 11.2v. When I turned the bike off, the GPS was reading 8.0v. This leads me to believe that the alternator was trying to charge the battery but it just wasn't hold the charge. Any thoughts?
TIA, AJ

[Screamin]

Generally the first and most common thing to check is the battery and cables at both ends.

[hard10]

Well I'm at an impasse. The bike is throwing diagnostic codes showing low voltage (P0563) and the voltmeter is at about 10.5~11v. However, when I put a meter on the battery directly, it reads 12v. There must be some type of a short.

[Fired00d]

AJ,
Just a thought since you mentioned short.. you don't think this could be any way related to the problem you had w/the "Küryakyn Rear Run-Turn-Brake Controller with Pulse Brake" you posted about not to long ago?

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Sean M Cary]

Well I'm at an impasse. The bike is throwing diagnostic codes showing low voltage (P0563) and the voltmeter is at about 10.5~11v. However, when I put a meter on the battery directly, it reads 12v. There must be some type of a short.

pinned wire from  your recent upgrades/maint?

[Boatman]

With the bike running, the volt gauge should show 14V and should show 14V at battery cables with your voltmeter if stator and voltage regulator is working correctly.   12V at the battery with engine shut off shows that the battery is not discharged.  See what voltage you have at the battery with the engine running, AJ..  

I just remembered you getting it back from engine work, so maybe something there is a miss with a bad connection/ground as d00d eluded to.

[hard10]

AJ,
Just a thought since you mentioned short.. you don't think this could be any way related to the problem you had w/the "Küryakyn Rear Run-Turn-Brake Controller with Pulse Brake" you posted about not to long ago?

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

Gary, I think the two are most definitely related. I'm just not sure how. The DTC's are P0562, b1121, b1125, b1126, & b1154. Most are turn signal codes so I'm thinking something was shorted when it all went back together. I've got 700 miles since.

[aushog]

Generally the first and most common thing to check is the battery and cables at both ends.

ditto.

i had crazy voltages, over, under, all sorts of codes.  found the battery ground was loose.  tightened one screw and it fixed everything.  Maybe not your problem, but easy to check.

[Boatman]

Any fix yet AJ??  I may need to fix mine someday.   

[grc]

Sounds like a poor ground.  Assuming the engine still starts normally, the problem may not be the main ground connection at the battery, but perhaps one of the chassis grounds.  Check the ground studs located in front of the battery tray, that's where many of the peripheral ground leads are connected.

BTW, voltages should be as follows:

Open circuit voltage across battery terminals, no load:
Fully charged - 12.8V
75% charged - 12.6V
25% charged - 12.0V
 0%  charged - 11.8V

Charging voltage 14.5V +/- 0.2V, measured at battery terminals with engine running (this is assuming you have a fully charged battery).

Jerry

[hard10]

Thanks guys. I went over to have the battery checked this afternoon. Ran a diagnostic check and the battery was good. Voltage = 12.54v CCA  = 532 temp = 103⁰. So now that I know the battery is good, I'll take Jerry's advice & look at the other ground wires. The terminals are all tight.

[Mr D]

Sounds like a poor ground.  Assuming the engine still starts normally, the problem may not be the main ground connection at the battery, but perhaps one of the chassis grounds.  Check the ground studs located in front of the battery tray, that's where many of the peripheral ground leads are connected.

BTW, voltages should be as follows:

Open circuit voltage across battery terminals, no load:
Fully charged - 12.8V
75% charged - 12.6V
25% charged - 12.0V
 0%  charged - 11.8V

Charging voltage 14.5V +/- 0.2V, measured at battery terminals with engine running (this is assuming you have a fully charged battery).

Jerry

Us riders are very fortunate to have resources here like Jerry, Very well appreciated 
My .02 worth

[hard10]

Well, I checked the voltage again. Idle state was 12.24v. Engine running 11.2v. There is a major drop in readings from the battery to the dash. Both the voltmeter and the GPS are at least 2v less than what the meter reads at the battery. My only conclusion is that there is a problem with the alternator.

[brhulen]

I agree it's most likely a poor ground.  When I picked my bike up from having the head recall done, I drove it about 4 miles from the dealership and it quit cold turkey.  No indications beforehand.  Let it set for a couple of minutes and started it back up and returned to the dealership.  It would not throw any codes and they attributed it to just sitting over the winter months and the computer having to relearn the curve again.  Rode it home (a little over 100 miles) with no further issues.  A few days later when I was running the new Moto Lite wiring I discovered the positive battery cable was loose.  Also noticed the rear cylinder exhaust was leaking a bit and discovered both exhaust flange nuts were missing!  So the point I'm trying to make is check your bike over with a fine tooth comb after having it serviced or worked on at the dealership.  They're human and prone to making mistakes just like the rest of us.  Would I take it back there again, you bet without a moments hesitation!  But I'd still double check everything.  What did President Reagan say?  Trust but verify!

[hard10]

The bike died while on a charity ride this afternoon. I did get to see Kingrod (whose on a beautiful yellow SERG now). I jump started it then loaded it onto the truck for the ride to the dealership. Time will tell.