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[49445CVO]

I have a '06 SEUC and had it up on the lift creaning her up and went to rotate the front tire to clean the wheel and found that it is hard to rotate.  It seems as though the disk may have a high spot or maybe the fron brake is hanging up.  Anyone here have this issue too?


Topper

[skreminegul07]

I have a '06 SEUC and had it up on the lift creaning her up and went to rotate the front tire to clean the wheel and found that it is hard to rotate.  It seems as though the disk may have a high spot or maybe the fron brake is hanging up.  Anyone here have this issue too?


Topper

It's difficult to measure what someone else refers to a "hard to turn.  If the rotors are warped, usuall as you turn the wheel, you get to a point where it is easy to turn, then again difficult to turn.

I would remove the calipers one at a time to see if this is the case.  If still hard to turn with no calipers, its a bearing.  You should be able to visually see the runout while spinning the tire without calipers. 
It may be a bad caliper dragging.

[Bungy]

Before you get too far into it, take a can of brake cleaner & clean the rotors really well, I find it helps a lot.

[49445CVO]

I will try both... Thanks guys

[grc]

It's not unusual at all on Harley calipers for brake dust to build up and cause the pistons to stick (no dust boots on the pistons to keep the crud out).  Remove one caliper at a time, insert a block of wood or other material (thinner than the rotor) between the pads to keep the pistons from coming all the way out of the bores and to give you something to push the pistons back in to their bores.  Carefully apply the brake to extend the pistons slightly.  Thoroughly spray around the pistons and caliper bores with brake cleaner to flush out the gunk, then press the pistons back into the bores.  Now lightly apply the brake lever and watch the pistons, they should all extend smoothly and equally.  If not, repeat the spray treatment until all the pistons move smoothly and are equally easy to push back into the bores.  Reinstall the caliper (this might be a good time to change pads if yours are worn), do the other side.  Once both sides are completed, apply the brakes to remove any excess clearance between the pads and rotors.  Spin the wheel and apply the brakes, release and try spinning the wheel again.  You should see a definite improvement over the original drag.

Jerry

[49445CVO]

Thanks Jerry


Topper

[Texas 103]

Thanks Jerry


Topper

Here's the 411 on that from Lyndall, I do it everytime I do pads, should do it more often...  http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/service_tech.htm Greg

[49445CVO]

Great....Thanks a bunch

Topper

[skreminegul07]

I did the Lyndall procedure diligently on the front duals and also installed floating rotors.  After long ride, the discs are still cold.  On the other hand, the rear disc is too hot to touch after the cleaning procedure and stock rotor.  I was going to replace the caliper, but was told they are all that way.  I verified tihs with other bikes in the group, the rears run real hot.  Is it because its a single disk, or more braking is being done by the rear, or that the rear gets less air?  I do use front brakes for most braking.