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[DavidB]

How often should the fuel filters be changed on these FI bikes ?

[Boatman]

25-30,000 miles.

[DICKW]

I believe the book says 25,000 but I don't have it in front of me.
But I bet I am close.

[Twolanerider]

I plan to do mine at 25K intervals (or somewhere close).  Too much of a pain in the ass on an FI  bike if the plug up to not do them in plenty of time.

Changing them isn't really a difficult chore either.  High on the nuisance scale for having to be careful with them.  But it's not a technically nor physically challenging task.

[DCFIREMANN]

I do mine every 15k to 20k but that is just me. I don't want to have problems while on the road.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[aclass]

Have a friend that had bike trouble last week,  would idle but not accelerate.  43K on the bike and the fuel filter had come apart and subsequently destroyed the injectors in the process.   $400+ later he was back on the road.

[AXIL]

    service manual $58.00

[Cvostu]

I did mine. Glad I did.

[porthole]

High on the nuisance scale for having to be careful with them.  But it's not a technically nor physically challenging task.

If you are not careful you will break the fuel pump - and that is more then a nuisance or so I have been told 

[Twolanerider]

If you are not careful you will break the fuel pump - and that is more then a nuisance or so I have been told 

The entire task is high on the nuisance scale.  Not high difficulty but you do have to be careful.  It is tight quarters for relatively delicate pieces.  The Delphi bikes are only slightly different than the Marelli bikes for this task.  So the Road Glide will still illustrate:

Need to first remove the dash/tank cover.  This will expose the one real difficulty for this little task.  As in so many things in life.  It's the size of the hole relative to what you'd like to put in it.

[Twolanerider]

Because what you'd like to take out of it and put in it includes the fuel float (on its long arm--don't bend it please--so your fuel gauge remains no more inaccurate than it was to begin with), the rest of the sending unit, fuel pump, lines and arm to which it all mounts.  Note that line going horizontally in to the side of the fuel filter still inside the tank.  Seem to always have to reach in under the lip of the tank and push it down a bit to clear the tank a bit.  It's flexible though so no great problem.

[Twolanerider]

Out a little farther as things are turned at a few different angles to clear the structure inside the tank.

[Twolanerider]

One other slightly different angle for a different perspective.

[Twolanerider]

Note the two pics here.  This is why all the angular bending and using of foul words are often required to complete this task.  The area under the center of the tank is structure.  Maybe 1.5 to 2 inches in depth.  It's over to the left side where the tank opens up and all the parts live.  So you're really only working in the left 1/3rd of the tank and that 1/3rd of the tank is not easily or directly beneath your entry point.

[Twolanerider]

Once the line inside the tank (to the fuel bung) is unhooked from the output you will need parts.  Harley sells a filter kit; which isn't.  A kit that is.

The screws in the dash are one time use.  They have little seals on them.  They come five to a pack.  Though the bike needs ten.  You'll also need the cork gasket or rubber seal depening on year of your bike.  Get those and the fuel filter kit and you'll actually have a complete kit.  Oh, and make sure your kit has the hose clamps in it.  I got one recently that had them missing as did another site member.