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[TNT]

Left the house last evening in cool 62 degree Vermont air, went 5 miles to the only red light in town, while i was sitting there the bike kills one cylinder in its effort to stay cool. This just dont seem right to me, i realize everything was up to operating temperatures after 5 miles, but the bike seems to be way to lean and running hotter than what i feel would be normal, its like if i sit still without air passing over the motor for more than 10 seconds it kills one cylinder. My 09 SERG is all stock except for Bassani slip on's. What should i do to cool this motor down?? and how much will it cost ??   

[aclass]

After my dyno tune,   as long as I'm moving then my SERG stays around 200°.   Although,  if I hit the traffic lights in 80+ temps then I can darn near what the hand move on the oil temp gauge.   Since the tune I've never seen my temps above 240 even in traffic.   The rear cylinder cut off happens at 230° on mine.

[Screamin]

Lose the cat. converters and get a good dyno tune. You're running way too lean.

[tlr]

There are many posts here about the heat (especially on the right side).  Most of us have done the following mods: totally remove the cat, add some type of tuner, have the bike dyno'ed, add some type of mid frame defector (HD, Kury etc).  These typically help with the heat issues.  Although, some of us, me included still run very hot.  Good luck

[TNT]

I was thinking about calling Vance and Hines to see if they could recommend one of there tuners that would best work with my Bassani slip ons. What is the best way for me to remove the Cat ??, i assume i need to remove the head pipe?? is it easy to access the Cat for its removal??

[GregKhougaz]

       V & H will very likely try to sell you their fuel pak which is like a "stop gap" measure.  BTW, by installing the Bassanis you probably leaned out the bike a little even with the closed loop system on your SERG.  The cat causes a lot of heat as well as the lean AFR required by Uncle Sam.  That's why you read above about cat removal and tuners.

       There is no tuner that will "work best" with your Bassanis.  It really depends more on the shop your going to and what they're familiar with.  Most here have usee the SERT or Mastertune tuners with great success.  You might want to read CVO 110 Andrews 54 dyno test! 120 LBS Torque! 102 HP!.  See if you want to go as far as changing your cam.  Read read read and talk to people,  then decide what you want to do. 

[FLSTFI Dave]

I was thinking about calling Vance and Hines to see if they could recommend one of there tuners that would best work with my Bassani slip ons. What is the best way for me to remove the Cat ??, i assume i need to remove the head pipe?? is it easy to access the Cat for its removal??

Talk to Steve at Fullsac.  He has a map for a TTS Master tune that really cooled my bike down.  It is for his baffels but I am sure it would be good with the bassani slip ons.

The best way to remove the cat is to cut the head pipe in half where the two meet, then chissle out the cat and weld it back together.  Steve at Fullsac will do this mod if you can not or no one locally will do it.  The other option is get a head pipe off a 09 96" 49 state bike, as it has no cat.

The tune and loosing the cat will cool the bike alot, and give you more hp and torque, a win win if you ask me

[Highwaystar]

I'll say it again...The HQ Pro tuner. You do not need any dyno time or race tuner from HD. It will adjust itself, makes big power and is spot on from idle to redline...I never have the jug shut down and the temp never goes over 230F...averages 200-220

[LarryB]

I'll say it again...The HQ Pro tuner. You do not need any dyno time or race tuner from HD. It will adjust itself, makes big power and is spot on from idle to redline...I never have the jug shut down and the temp never goes over 230F...averages 200-220

and costs twice as much as the TTS.
Isn't 200 too low of a temp for these bikes

[Texas 103]

I'll say it again...The HQ Pro tuner. You do not need any dyno time or race tuner from HD. It will adjust itself, makes big power and is spot on from idle to redline...I never have the jug shut down and the temp never goes over 230F...averages 200-220

I'd put that tune up against any good professional tune... no way can it correct the VE's and the timing...Like I've said before  there is no substitute for a good professional tune...

[grc]

Information copied from head-quarters web site,  http://www.head-quarters.com/html/pro_tuner.html

“The Head Quarters ProTuner combines all the functionality of the Screamin Eagle Race Tuner and Super Tuner, the dependability of utilizing your factory ECM, and the latest technology available for Automatic EFI Fuel System management. Not to mention ease of use...comes custom programmed for high performance builds, no complex setup procedures, no guesswork, and best of all, no expensive dyno fees.

It's simple...load a map into your factory ECM with the Screamin Eagle Race Tuner or Super Tuner, hook up the Head Quarters ProTuner, and go ride...it does the rest! Minor timing adjustments may be required depending on your build which is done with your Race Tuner or Super Tuner.

No matter how you ride, the Head Quarters ProTuner EFI Fuel System Controller learns and remembers your riding style while constantly monitoring and correcting your A/F ratio as needed...up 500 times per second!

If your bike is already tuned with a Screamin Eagle Race Tuner or Super Tuner but you want the comfort of automatic fuel system management, then the ProTuner will work for you...even if your engine package didn't come from Head Quarters. All you need to do is provide us with info on your build.

When you purchase your Head Quarters Performance Engine Package and ProTuner, you'll receive a map custom designed to your specific build. Upload the map with your Race Tuner or Super Tuner, install the Pro Tuner, and go ride. After the ProTuner calibrates to your engine, riding style, weight, and conditions, minor timing adjustments may be necessary to maximize performance which can easily be done with your Race Tuner. “



HQ-6520 PRO TUNER, 08/09 FL models    $482.19



No thanks.  I don't need a $482 device which requires I purchase a different $459 device to do the things the HQ device doesn't do (like upload maps to the ECM, or adjust timing, or adjust any of the other parameters like warmup fuel and idle speed curves, speedo calibrations, etc., etc., etc.

Still would like to know some real details from the HQ folks, and still haven't found any meaningful information from them anywhere. 

Jerry

[DW6019]

He keeps hawking the most expensive tuner add-on on the market. I read the website just as listed above. Sounds like he bypassed the recommendation and went straight to the tuner, which per the company is incorrect. Sorry, I will pass on this deal and stay with the Mastertune for less than $400 with a map from Steve at Fullsac.

[Highwaystar]

The HQ will work fine without the addition of any other device. The HQ web site describes a needed starting point you will need to access for the self tune device to take over after an "engine build" with the se race tuner, A stock 110 is not an "engine build" and will self adjust fine with out the race tuner. If you want to custom tune for a cam change or are searching for more power at higher rpm's then add the HD race tuner to gain access to the Delfi. On pump gas in the real world street riding I can say I am impressed with the function and self tuning. This seems to be a touchy subject to some but you will see self tune devices will become the norm in the near future. I am giving an honest opinion. I have spent hours of dyno tuning with lap tops with past bikes and was happy. I can only say is that The power and drive ability of the HQ self tune exceeds any hard non adjusting tune if have used in the past. I ride hard and it works fine. total cost was $430 with dealer discount.        

[FLSTFI Dave]

The HQ will work fine without the addition of any other device. The HQ web site describes a needed starting point you will need to access for the self tune device to take over after an "engine build" with the se race tuner, A stock 110 is not an "engine build" and will self adjust fine with out the race tuner. If you want to custom tune for a cam change or are searching for more power at higher rpm's then add the HD race tuner to gain access to the Delfi. On pump gas in the real world street riding I can say I am impressed with the function and self tuning. This seems to be a touchy subject to some but you will see self tune devices will become the norm in the near future. I am giving an honest opinion. I have spent hours of dyno tuning with lap tops with past bikes and was happy. I can only say is that The power and drive ability of the HQ self tune exceeds any hard non adjusting tune if have used in the past. I ride hard and it works fine. total cost was $430 with dealer discount.        

Looking all over their site, sure looks like you are required to have a SERT or TTS, to up load a map.  In fact it tells you in more than one place on their site that a map is needed and a device to load the map.

Where on their site does it say nothing but the HQ self tune device is need?

[grc]

Looking all over their site, sure looks like you are required to have a SERT or TTS, to up load a map.  In fact it tells you in more than one place on their site that a map is needed and a device to load the map.

Where on their site does it say nothing but the HQ self tune device is need?

It doesn't, at least not anywhere I could find it.  But here is what Highwaystar is saying, I think.  If you're running a stock bike that doesn't need a map downloaded for mods, then you can just add the HQ unit which will modify what your O² sensors are telling the ECM and richen up the mixture.  Unfortunately, as best I can tell from the tiny bit of information they chose to share, HQ has already preset their unit for a particular AFR.  If you decide you don't like what they chose, I don't see where you can change it.  So what this really looks like to me is a very expensive version of the Nightrider IED's, something that just modifies the output of the O² sensors to fool the ECM.

I may be wrong, and maybe that little box has all sorts of whizbang features and magical properties that we don't know about (basically because HQ isn't sharing any info).  But as I said before in another thread on this subject, if HQ expects to sell me a product they better get off the secrecy BS.  Lay it all out there, what this thing does exactly, and what it doesn't do, and what it is set at, how I can change their default settings if I desire, etc..  Otherwise, I'd go with the $79 Nightrider IED's and get basically the same thing but $400 cheaper.

Jerry