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[Fireguy]

As I am reading the different topics I notice the steering head nut has come loose on some bikes. (and were covered under warranty to be fixed). Is this a common problem and is it something I can do if I am in need of tighting it. This could be just one more of the checks I do when wiping down my bike.

[arcticdude]

Mine was loose from the factory.  It's a bitch to tighten, unless you take the entire front apart, which I did not do.  You need a long stiff thin flat ended spike to drive the star nut.

[GregKhougaz]

The steering hear nut has been loose on a lot of the '09 earlier bikes.  You'll know if you let go of the bars while decelerating.  Mine had a wobble from about 50 down to 30 mph.  It was a bit scary the first time.  I repeated the test to be sure.      If you don't have this issue, I don't think I'd worry.  The nut to tighten is under your Speedo & Tach and you have to remove the cover and ignition switch.  Probably a bit beyond "wipedown check." 

[gordy]

This nut

[arcticdude]

That's not what the 07 nut looks like.  The 07 is a multi tabbed star type nut with numerous tabs.  You don't HAVE to take anything apart to tighten it, only come up with or make the tool to tighten it.  The service manual tells all about doing this.  You jack up the front end, do the swing test and tighten or loosen accordingly.  To tighten the nut, you drive forward from the left side (primary side), twisting the nut clockwise (when looking down from the top).  But you don't need to take anything apart.  It's a royal pain to do, but you should only have to do it every 50k or so.  Miune was so loose the front end clunked when you hit the brakes.  I was told all kinds of stuuf like, "It's the brakes" or "it's the suspension" all the way to "It's the muffler bearings".  Tightened the damn nut and no more clunk.  Go figure.

[gordy]

Well that is what the nut looks like on a 2009 SERG

[hd-dude]

The nut in the pcture above is not the adjuster nut. The adjuster (star type nut) is under the top tree. To adjust it properly you must first loosen the top nut. Then with the curved tool make the adjustments. The top tree and nut secures the lower star nut into place when tightened.

Attached is a pic of fairly new tool from Snap-on to make it easy to get to the start nut.

[Highjagger]

as far as i know : hd changed the  necessary torque for this steering head , now it has to be fasten more than earlier .

[arcticdude]

gordy,

As hd-dude has gone on to elaborate- which I should have done originally- the nut you pictured is only a lock nut of sorts, the actual tensioning nut is under the top tree.  You can see it if you look from below  and should not have to take anything apart tp get to it.  I did remove the front fairing to get to the lock nut easier.  Though on a SERG, it MAY be a good idea to remove the fairing clamp from the left side.  Also, the Snap-on tool hd-dude posted will be quickly broken, as I had to whack mine with a hammer to start it moving and the tap with a hammer to keep it moving.  It was NOT something I could just push with my hand.

[grc]

To actually loosen the stem nut (to allow adjustment with the star nut) and then properly torque the stem nut, something will indeed have to be removed to gain access.  If you just turn the star nut, depending on the direction you turn it you may just be jamming it tighter or possibly creating a loose condition of the stem nut without actually changing true bearing preload.  BTW, you also need to loosen the fork leg pinch bolts in the lower bracket while doing the adjustment. 

If you're going to do this yourself, follow the instructions and don't just start turning things.  You're dealing with serious safety stuff here, and if you're not certain what you're doing you need to let a professional handle it.

Jerry

[hd-dude]

gordy,

As hd-dude has gone on to elaborate- which I should have done originally- the nut you pictured is only a lock nut of sorts, the actual tensioning nut is under the top tree.  You can see it if you look from below  and should not have to take anything apart tp get to it.  I did remove the front fairing to get to the lock nut easier.  Though on a SERG, it MAY be a good idea to remove the fairing clamp from the left side.  Also, the Snap-on tool hd-dude posted will be quickly broken, as I had to whack mine with a hammer to start it moving and the tap with a hammer to keep it moving.  It was NOT something I could just push with my hand.

My post above was not meant to be a "how-to" on stem adjustment. I was just pointing out the that the nut pictured is not the adjuster and showing a tool to make the job easier. Jerry's post is more complete on the steps involved. The point here is that you cannot properly adjust the stem by just getting at the star nut and whacking it with a hammer. The tool from Snap-on works very well and I have used it dozen of times without it breaking.

[arcticdude]

On MY particular 07, you could NOT just push on it to adjust it.  It took a lot more force than that and I was following the 07 service manual instructions. 

[gordy]

Thanks for the info.  Lucky I am not experiencing any wobble which would require checking the steering adjustment.  Gordy

[jfh]

This nut

Gordy,

What kind of handlebar clamp are you using there? Looks like industrial strength.

[gordy]

It is a modified Carlini to mount my 1.25 pullback bars.