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[evilapes]

   I have a 2009 cvo roadglide, just got 12" apehangers on it.  The shop that did it didn't need to change the clutch cable, just rerouted it. Since the bar swap, my bike doesn't shift as smooth.  I can't find neutral at all unless the bike is off.  Also, sometimes when I first start the bike and put it in 1st gear, it wants to walk.  Meaning, I could probably pull out without any acceleration.  Had the bike back to them twice, they bled air out of the line.  Helped a little but not much.  Called my local dealor, they told me that they can't do anything about it because it is hydaulic and should adjust itself.  Don't know what else to do.  Any help would be appreciated.    

[Hoist!]

  I have a 2009 cvo roadglide, just got 12" apehangers on it.  The shop that did it didn't need to change the clutch cable, just rerouted it. Since the bar swap, my bike doesn't shift as smooth.  I can't find neutral at all unless the bike is off.  Also, sometimes when I first start the bike and put it in 1st gear, it wants to walk.  Meaning, I could probably pull out without any acceleration.  Had the bike back to them twice, they bled air out of the line.  Helped a little but not much.  Called my local dealor, they told me that they can't do anything about it because it is hydaulic and should adjust itself.  Don't know what else to do.  Any help would be appreciated.  

There is NO CABLE on a SERG3! It's hydraulic and needs to be properly bled!

Hoist!

[Twolanerider]

If the clutch line was disconnected from the master cylinder and rerouted, and if it worked ok before and does not now, the problem is almost certainly air.  Whether they've bled it twice or not.

The dealer who told you there's no adjustment is correct.  There is no clutch adjustment on the hydraulic clutch system.  There's either enough travel in the slave system or their isn't.  If there's not it's one of two problems.  Either air in the system or the grips or levers have been changed.  If the lever angle comes back farther or the grip has a bigger OD than stock you lessen the amount of travel available to the lever -- you can't pull the clutch in as far.  So long as you haven't also changed grips or levers you've got air.

[grc]

To expand on what Twolanerider posted, if you look at the clutch master cylinder and hydraulic line you will probably notice that the highest point relative to the ground isn't the actual cylinder portion of the master cylinder, but is in fact the fitting for the hydraulic line.  This high spot makes a convenient repository for air that doesn't ever make it's way back into the master cylinder to be purged, or down to the actuator to be bled at the bleeder valve.  This is what I found on my stock SEEG, and I had to bleed the air out at the master cylinder fitting to finally get my clutch to work properly.  If you significantly changed the angle of your master cylinder with the new bars, or removed and then reinstalled the hydraulic line, this may be your problem.

BTW, H-D actually has instructions in the manuals on how to bleed the clutch fluid line (as opposed to the actuator at the bleed valve).  If your dealer is unaware of this, ask them to refer to the appropriate supplemental shop manual for your bike.  Basically, it goes like this:

With the bars turned until the master cylinder is level, and holding the reservoir cover in place,
1.  Pump the clutch hand lever 5 times.
2.  Hold the lever against the grip.
3.  Hold a shop towel under the fitting and slightly loosen the banjo bolt.
4.  Watch the fitting for air bubbles.
5.  Tighten banjo bolt.
6.  Release clutch lever.
7.  Check reservoir fluid level and refill to "Fill Level" as required.
8.  Repeat the above process three or more times until only a steady stream of fluid escapes (no bubbles).

Be very careful to protect all painted surfaces, as the DOT 4 brake fluid will definitely damage paint.

After bleeding the hydraulic line, then bleed the actuator at the bleeder valve.

Jerry

[evilapes]

thanks for the help

[MAT]

Thanks Jerry !