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[tship65]

I have a SE 110 engine with a SE 50mm throttle body, PC,  The problem I have is when I start up cold the engine idle surges or races up and down until it is warmed up.  Have checked for manifold leaks, NONE,  I did change the temp sensor and did not see no change.  The only way I can make it go away is to adjust the trim on PC3.  I have searched and metered every thing I can figure out.  I am beginning to wonder if it is the TPS or the injectors.  Has anyone seen this before?  any help would be greatfull.
thanks
Shawn

[Heatwave]

By design the efi fuel map has a cold strat map that starts the rpms and fuel deilvery at a much higher lever. You should find that the rpms drop down to 1000 rpms when the bike reaches normal operating temperatures. This is normal and designed into the fuel map .

[mjb765]

The idle should not be surging when cold..it should be higher but steady.

[tship65]

Thanks for your reply,

Understand what you are talking about and yes I do agree.  My problem is surging (up / down / up / down) until the engine gets warmed up then I get a solid idle at 1100 where it should be.
Shawn

[SCRM-R]

The only time I ever experienced this was when I had a ThunderMax ECM on the bike, and the surging when the engine was cold was normal for the TMAX.  Of course it was normal for the turn signals not to self-cancel and for Zippers to ignore you when you had problems too.  I got rid of the TMAX and that solved the problems with surging, turn signals and Zippers all at once.

[Ed Ramberger - One_Screamin_Eagle]

I have a SE 110 engine with a SE 50mm throttle body, PC,  The problem I have is when I start up cold the engine idle surges or races up and down until it is warmed up.  Have checked for manifold leaks, NONE,  I did change the temp sensor and did not see no change.  The only way I can make it go away is to adjust the trim on PC3.  I have searched and metered every thing I can figure out.  I am beginning to wonder if it is the TPS or the injectors.  Has anyone seen this before?  any help would be greatfull.
thanks
Shawn

I would believe that you're too rich or too lean and the IAC is trying to maintain an idle but the fuel is causing a surge.  You answered your own question when you said that you adjusted the PC and it went away.  I would take a look at the fuel tables just above idle at the two left most columns.  That's probably where your problem lies.
OR - Your throttle blade is out of adjustment and the IAC is having a hell of a time controlling it.  However, this condition usually causes either a high or low idle and may also show a loss of idle code.
A Super Tuner would have allowed you to adjust the IAC on warmup whereas a PC does not.

[Ed Ramberger - One_Screamin_Eagle]

By design the efi fuel map has a cold strat map that starts the rpms and fuel deilvery at a much higher lever. You should find that the rpms drop down to 1000 rpms when the bike reaches normal operating temperatures. This is normal and designed into the fuel map .

Surging and racing is not normal

[LarryB]

i'd say the problem was with the PC, once again, the PC is a module that tricks the ECM into thinking that it's wrong and to make the adjustment.
get rid of the PC and use Mastertune

[Fullsac Performance]

i'd say the problem was with the PC, once again, the PC is a module that tricks the ECM into thinking that it's wrong and to make the adjustment.
get rid of the PC and use Mastertune

I have to agree. Its a tuning issue that a PC cant address.
The surging is a lean condition. You need access into your IAC, idle speed and warm up tables.
With the addition of the SE TB, you have out grown your PC. Just for fun, unhook the PC and plug your
02 sensors back in go for an easy 15 minute ride and see if it "auto learns" enough to calm down.


Steve George

[tship65]

Thanx all for your comments and recommendations,  I have tried unhooking the PC3 and it still acts the same.  The strange thing is; the plugs look great.  On other problem I do have once in awhile is on hot startup I get a huge kickback and puff out of the TB.  I orginally thought the Compression releases were not working right and added manual ones in and it still does it. 

I have to agree I think that it has to do with the computer,  Has anyone had any luck with the TMAX with the autotune?  or what is the best out there today.
Shawn

[Ironhorse]

It could be that your idle needs to be reset.

Unlike carbed bikes, or even early M&M or Delphi bikes the system has a memory that defaults to the last idle setting. Sometimes if a rider cuts the engine off while coasting and the engine was NOT at idle when it shut down, the ECM "remembers" that last engine speed and "sets" it as idle. Then upon start up the engine "races" to that last setting. I know a couple of riders who have had that problem.

Mark

[LarryB]

Thanx all for your comments and recommendations,  I have tried unhooking the PC3 and it still acts the same.  The strange thing is; the plugs look great.  On other problem I do have once in awhile is on hot startup I get a huge kickback and puff out of the TB.  I orginally thought the Compression releases were not working right and added manual ones in and it still does it. 

I have to agree I think that it has to do with the computer,  Has anyone had any luck with the TMAX with the autotune?  or what is the best out there today.
Shawn

TTS Mastertune

[Fired00d]

Thanx all for your comments and recommendations,  I have tried unhooking the PC3 and it still acts the same.  The strange thing is; the plugs look great.  On other problem I do have once in awhile is on hot startup I get a huge kickback and puff out of the TB.  I orginally thought the Compression releases were not working right and added manual ones in and it still does it. 

I have to agree I think that it has to do with the computer,  Has anyone had any luck with the TMAX with the autotune?  or what is the best out there today.
Shawn

If you're not doing the tune yourself find someone that you feel confident in doing the tune and go on there recommendations. If you are going to tune it yourself (like to play/fine tune data) then you may want to go w/TTS. There are a lot of horror stories w/the the TMax Autotune so if I were you I'd stay away from that.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[moscooter]

It could be that your idle needs to be reset.

Unlike carbed bikes, or even early M&M or Delphi bikes the system has a memory that defaults to the last idle setting. Sometimes if a rider cuts the engine off while coasting and the engine was NOT at idle when it shut down, the ECM "remembers" that last engine speed and "sets" it as idle. Then upon start up the engine "races" to that last setting. I know a couple of riders who have had that problem.

Mark

The above info is spot on....if your trouble persists even after warm-up,  this could be your problem.  I can't remember exactly what my service mgr told me,  but I think you turn the switch to "on",  and then (without starting bike), cycle the switch on/off about 5 times within 10-15 seconds.   This is supposed to "reset" the idle memory.  Another suggestion to avoid the problem in the first place is to use the "kill" switch to stop the motor and not the ign. switch.   (So I was advised) 

[Steve Cole]

If you believe it to be an idle learn issue on a Drive By Wire bike, the procedure for reset is as follows. Start engine and ride bike until warmed up. Stop and park the bike and take you right hand off the handle bars! With your RIGHT hand reach over and switch the main power off. That's the one that the key goes in not the handle bar switch. Allow it to sit for 30 seconds. Restart the bike without out touching the handle bars and let it idle for 30 seconds, shut it off the same way as described above. Do this 4 times in a row and the idle learn is reset.

There is also an updated program the dealer can install for this issue as well.