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[Dan_Lockwood]

Just the cam swap. A .030 head gasket would bump the compression a bit and help the performance as well.

Jim,

I know in this reply I'm quoting the .030" head gasket question, but what about valve springs.

I still hear in my stock '09 SERG 110", as well as what I heard in my '08 SERK, a lot of rattling / ticking at the 2500 / 3500 rpm range.

A few years ago I was talking to the tech in Rapid City at the convention center about my noise.  He said that they had "some" ticking from the short piston skirts, but most was attributed to the harmonics in the valve train.

In my earlier days with streetrods the new, then, Bee Hive springs were said to reduce floating and over weight in the valve train and because of the oval wire used and the non symmetrical spring coil diameters, the springs were a lot quieter and stronger at the same time.

HD has Bee Hive in the SE parts list and I'm wondering in a cam change if the Bee Hive would help the actual cam swap as WELL as reducing some of the sewing machine noises these 110" motors have?

What do you think?

Dewey's Heads, any thoughts on this.

Can springs be changed out without pulling the heads like they can on cars with air forced into the spark plug hole?  But as long as the tank was coming probably the .030" head gaskets would hurt that much just to bump up the CR a little bit.

Thanks.

[jfh]

Dan,

I had the sewing machine ticking in the 2800-3200 range and completely eliminated it by replacing the pistons and jugs with proper fitting pieces from Axtell.

Good luck with yours.
John

[J B]

Jim just put the 574s into my 10 SESG. Identical set-up as JCZ (first post above), except I have the 2" fullsac cores. 

[HD Street Performance]

There are beehives that will go there assuming you stay under .600-.625 lift. I use Woods (best) or AV&V (good) not CompCams. I would not look at the beehive as a noise solution however all that said. They still need the stock seat and open pressure to control those big heavy valves.

[laylonlor]

them 574 fueling  get that good with no head work

[JCZ]

Jim just put the 574s into my 10 SESG. Identical set-up as JCZ (first post above), except I have the 2" fullsac cores. 

You have to really be enjoying that ride now.

[BUBBLEHEAD]

Sounds like a good combo. What else "should" be done to increase reliability with this? Cam Plate change? Better lifters? Or just bolt in the cams and go? In the 110 with all the issues that seem not to go away what is the best way to get a curve like this and increase reliability?

I'm planning ahead for my next bike and it will be a LONG term ride so I'd like to make it as bullet proof as possible.
Most likely it will be the 2011 CUSE

[HD Street Performance]

Sounds like a good combo. What else "should" be done to increase reliability with this? Cam Plate change? Better lifters? Or just bolt in the cams and go? In the 110 with all the issues that seem not to go away what is the best way to get a curve like this and increase reliability?

Nothing you mentioned are an issue with the 110. The cam bolts in and stock parts are reused.

The heads, the guides specifically are an issue over the long haul, yes even their new improved heads. All they did was keep the cheap cast iron guide and increase the clearance between the stem and guide. They still will seize and use oil, plus wear valve seals, even the best of them.
If I was to do anything to the 110 head, even with no airflow work, it would be replace the guides, seals and do a proper valve job.

Next the piston to cylinder fit on many is poor, tapered and out of round. I don't know if this is due to excessive temperature or quality at the inception. Head gaskets blowing is certainly factored into heat thing IMO Certainly getting a good tune and making them run cooler is a help there but not sure the cure.

The crank
They can start out with a lot of runout or slip and go there. Solution
Have the crank trued and welded \ plugged

IMO those are the heavy hitters

[BUBBLEHEAD]

The heads, the guides specifically are an issue over the long haul, yes even their new improved heads. All they did was keep the cheap cast iron guide and increase the clearance between the stem and guide. They still will seize and use oil, plus wear valve seals, even the best of them.
If I was to do anything to the 110 head, even with no airflow work, it would be replace the guides, seals and do a proper valve job.

Next the piston to cylinder fit on many is poor, tapered and out of round. I don't know if this is due to excessive temperature or quality at the inception. Head gaskets blowing is certainly factored into heat thing IMO Certainly getting a good tune and making them run cooler is a help there but not sure the cure.

The crank
They can start out with a lot of runout or slip and go there. Solution
Have the crank trued and welded \ plugged

IMO those are the heavy hitters
 
 

That's what I'm looking for. I realize the cams are just a bolt in but I thought I had read that parts in the motor are bearing free now.Cam plate ? I could be remembering it wrong, but no bearings seems bad to me. Is there anything that should be done there? If I have the cases split to do the crank work would it be wise and worth the expense to have timken bearings installed?

[HD Street Performance]

No parts needed there unless they are worn. Same for the oil pump. If the cam plate bushing is worn that is a surefire sign of a lot of crank runout. The plain metal cam bearings are not wear items at this point unless crap has traveled in the oil or the assembly was dirty. If the bike has over ~15K miles I would replace the lifters just because they are cheap and the aftermarket cam will be stressing these harder than the original cam.
Regarding the Timken sure go ahead and do that assuming the shop knows how to set up the endplay shims and assemble the cases properly but that knowlege is the same even with the rollers. I would consider the heavy duty rollers and fixing the crank the 90% solution and if the Timken is done in a way that actually line bores the case halfs together not the HD / Jims insert method, just my own take, some may think the Jims setup is fine (especially shops that bought the tool  ). Companys such as Zippers and Hoban Crankworks perform the work I describe.

[BUBBLEHEAD]

Thanks Dewey 

[jagonza1]

Don't know why but i tried the reaper 574 gear drives in my 95" and I kept blowing oil out the breather aroud 30 miles into a ride. coat the side of the bike run through the motor and kept doing it.  My dealer said he heard ther was some sort of issue with the over lap. tried several differat thing still did it.  rebuilt the motor and stroked it tried the reapers again and still did it.  I changed to se 257's and it quit.  I don't quite understand why a cam would do this. does anyone know why a cam can couse this. it had great poowerband and tourque.

Later
John A. Gonzales

[hd-dude]

Don't know why but i tried the reaper 574 gear drives in my 95" and I kept blowing oil out the breather aroud 30 miles into a ride. coat the side of the bike run through the motor and kept doing it.  My dealer said he heard ther was some sort of issue with the over lap. tried several differat thing still did it.  rebuilt the motor and stroked it tried the reapers again and still did it.  I changed to se 257's and it quit.  I don't quite understand why a cam would do this. does anyone know why a cam can couse this. it had great poowerband and tourque.

Later
John A. Gonzales

The cam wouldn't. An incorrectly installed oil pump would. This is a symtom of a wet sumping motor caused by the pump not scavenging oil from the crankcase.

[HD Street Performance]

Yep I totally agree
Something was not installed properly the first go around

[J B]

You have to really be enjoying that ride now.

We've got lift-off!

New poll:
"These Reaper 574's are gonna get me ___________ a lot of trouble."
a. into
b. out of
c. both!