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[GETVRTCL]

Pic of the bed motor

all the parts came from a local store that was closing down, chains, piller blocks, sprockets.

I did make covers for all the moving parts out of oak....just never got around to installing them

Very cool idea, I like it.

[GETVRTCL]

Insulating the Ramp door
 












I was not going to insulate the ramp door.  But I had MANY pieces of foam insulation left over, ALL over.  I removed the 3/4 in plywood from the ramp and found that the space was about 1 7/8 inches deep.  I was going to double the 1 in foam but thought it may make the outside skin bow so left it at 1 layer.  I took all the pieces I had an layed them into the voids.  After I had most of the surface covered I used a can of Great Stuff to fill in the gaps, this also helps hold the whole thing in place.  The Great Stuff expanded enough to hold all the pieces and basically transform them into one piece sheet in the cavities.  This recycled basically a whole sheet of foam board that would of ended up in the garbage, and that puts $20.00 back into the trailer fund.
Today I will get the high spots trimmed down and reinstall the plywood.

[GETVRTCL]

Ceiling Insulation
 
Went through and sealed and filled the roof bows with low expansion foam.  Then I cut the 1 inch  foam for each space,  I tried to fit it tightly so it would stay up without glue.  After the sheets were pressed between the bows any that seemed to be loose I filled the gaps with caulking.


Then in the opposite  direction I installed the radiant barrier insulation.  This is a semi-rigid foil sided 1/2 inch insulation.  The sales hype says that this is a R-21 factor insulation, if you can believe that.  I am not sure I buy into that, BUT I have used this in my home as a barrier for the radiant heat system, and it does hold back the heat.  So if I believe all the BULLS,,T about the R-factors the ceiling will be around R-27,  I don't believe it will be that much but I think it will allow us to be cooler inside the trailer.

[GETVRTCL]

Ramp door NON-skid surface
 
Today I wanted to get the ramp done so it had a week to dry before I drive the bike on it.  I painted the surface with Rustoleum dark grey paint.  I used this because I needed a paint that would give me time to get the surface covered before it dried and would allow me time to spead the grit into it.
I put the paint down THICK with a 1/2 nap roller then I spread Black Majic coarse sandblasting sand over the entire surface.  The sand is coarse and should make a good surface that is safe and slip free.  It sat for about 6 hours horizonataly so it could get a good set to it before I closed it up for the night because temps are starting to freeze again here.  I will run the heat overnight inside the hauler to help the paint cure, but I still will not walk on the surface for atleast a week.
This what the surface looks like so far.

[GETVRTCL]

Cutting out cabinets in walls.

I decided that the small areas left empty between the studs in the walls was wasted space.  So I cut them out to make small storage areas.  They made nice little areas for possibly bathroom items, can goods etc.

[GETVRTCL]

Xantrex Pure Sinewave inverter and Battery system start
 
I  purchased the Pure Sinewave inverter so there will not be any issues with the refridgerator or any electronics we will be using. 


I chose the 3000 watt surge / 2000 watt constant inverter.  I also purchased the optional remote starter for the inverter to make turning it off and on easier on me.
I will be wiring the inverter to 2 series 29 deep cell batteries. 


This setup should let the fridge run for 20 hours without having to charge the batteries.  The batteries will be charged while we are on shore power by the charger inverter, and I will have the batteries charging from the truck while traveling also.
I know that the electrical setup with a 1000/2000 watt inverter will run a 37 in LCD TV and a Bluray player for 6 hours and hardly drain the batteries.

[GETVRTCL]

Tiling the counter top and installing the Sink and Cook top
 
We decided to try putting self stick tiles over the plywood counter top to make it a little more finished and to protect it from the water and food.
I had NO frigging clue what I was doing so just jumped in to see if I could screw it up.  I have never been good a puzzles and finishing the small pieces with what I had left from the big cuts was a challenge. 
I started with a strip down the center and worked my way outboard from there.


I forgot to tell you that the tile company recomended using a prep solution on the raw plywood to aid in the adhesion of the tiles.  So I put the 2 coats recommended the day before so it would have time to dry before I started.


I have to admit it looks pretty nice, and it should protect it. 

[GETVRTCL]

Finishing off the Ceiling.
 
Finally got the last of the fiber board ceiling up yesterday.  The board has a white smooth finish on one side and was rated for damp applications.  I thought it would be better to use something rated for a damp environment because of the use the trailer will get.  With the 15,000 BTU Air condition unit in it, the inside could get a little damp.
After getting the sheets to line up in the moulding that joins them I drilled 1/4 holes every 6 inches and installed hammer-in large head rivits designed for these sheets.  I was afraid that with the bouncing and hard traveling we will be doing that I should keep the rivits close.  The last thing I want is for the ceiling to come down on the bike while traveling.

I have an onboard wireless video camera that will have a live shot coming from the trailer to the Toughbook in the truck.  That way we can check the status of things in the back without having to stop.

[napalm]

Keep the pictures coming....great job so far!

napalm

[porthole]

Since you plan on using the inverter I would skip the 29's and go for 2-4 6 volt golf cart batteries. You will be better off in the long run.

[tompen]

Thanks for the update. You do very nice work. Makes me want to start another one.

[GETVRTCL]

Since you plan on using the inverter I would skip the 29's and go for 2-4 6 volt golf cart batteries. You will be better off in the long run.

That was the original idea, but all for the people I have talked to informed me that the fridge will run atleast 20 hours on that set up and that is me only goal.  I figure 10 hours per day on the road and settling into a campground each night with full hookups.  If it does its job the beer and food will be cold when we stop for the night.
We plan on a few trial runs before the big trip.  We have reservations at Americade for a few days to see how everything funtions.

[porthole]

Either way in the long run quality golf cart batteries will last longer and both in age and output. They are designed to do exactly what you are planning. Especially if you may try and run a small electric heater.
Don't forget, inverters are not 100% efficient.

For your app the pure sine is the way to go and worth the extra investment.

[GETVRTCL]

7000 miles , 6 weeks and a whole lot of fun.

Just got back from the trip and all I have to say is I am ready to move out west away from the CIDIOTS.

The trailer performed without a problem and I am thinking I will be building another one for my brother.

[fresh oil and pipes]

Have an older 379 Peterbilt hope to build into a toy hauler/motorhome someday.