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[SID8D2]

I am anxiously awaiting my heads coming back from Dewey with Pro Street Mods with 2.120" intake valves. Don (Dewey's) has been a great source of knowledge and guidance talking me thru the upgrade. Also installed Woods TW408-44 cams, I am retaining the stock jugs, bore, stroke and pistons. My question is; have any of you done head work and used a bigger valve had any issues with piston/valve clearance?
Did you check it before final installation?
What clearances did you record on the perimeter of the valve to piston relief and depth?
I know most of you who tore your motors down this far probably changed pistons too, but I just thought I would ask and try to get a feel for what I may find when I check mine.

    Thanks

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Have built several 110" with the Wood 408's, and the OE 2.080" intakes without clearence issues.
You SHOULD be OK, but it would be best to take a look-see, with some clay.
Scott

[sugarbear20]

Have built several 110" with the Wood 408's, and the OE 2.080" intakes without clearence issues.
You SHOULD be OK, but it would be best to take a look-see, with some clay.
Scott

 

[SID8D2]

What about 2.120" intake valves with stock pistons and .035" milled off the bottom of the head?

[HD Street Performance]

If it is hitting it will leave a witness mark on top of the piston. Also if it is hitting good idea to take a compression test first before taking it apart looking for a valve that winged the piston and is slightly bent or broken guide. With a borescope you can check without pulling it down. See the same thing happen when guys turn them over before the lifters equalize
If they hit your's would be the first with that combo but lots of field variables can cause issues. It does need to be checked on any non-stock build IMO, sorry to say.

[SID8D2]

Haven't found an bore gage yet to use, best I could find was at NAPA $400 to purchase, so I haven't checked piston/valve clearance yet to see if it could be an issue (haste makes waste, should have done it when I was assembling but I was learning as I went and was overwhelmed with all I needed to do/learn to get it to the point of firing it up).

The 2nd (back up set) of new Cometic .030" gaskets did not arrive yet ether so I have not torn it down. I did however purchase a new compression tester and preformed a check in both cyls. The rear cyl checked 40psi on first hit and 110psi on 7-8 hit. The front cyl checked 30psi on first hit and 110 on 7-8 hit. Not 125psi like what the shop manual says but I only warmed it up for a couple mins before doing the check (checked it before starting and got 125psi on both cyls) does that seem OK? Gonna continue to investigate before tearing the front cyl down. With the stethascope I can hear the sound is in the front head area. Unless I can find a borescope to use/rent I think I will purchase one for the company I work for  I'm sure the boss won't mind 

The tick tick tick still only starts after the bike has gone thru its starting warm up program and remains evident while riding. Maybe I'm hearing a ping ping ping? I haven't found a tuner yet familiar with TTS in the Grand Rapids, MI area, does anyone know of one  I am not ready to learn the V-Tune yet until I get tick tick tick issue taken care of. Is it possible that with my build (see signature) and Fulsac's X-Pipe flash that I am so lean that it pings at idle? I thought the closed loop at idle let the ECM control the AFR? Again, learning as I go and trying not to "F" anything up that sets me back  $$$

[HD Street Performance]

Those compression numbers are not right.
The ACRs are firing and the throttle is closed both are wrong for a proper test. That said compression or detonation is not what you are hearing. If it ticks at idle and gets worse as the rpms raise and is always there there is likely mechanical interferance somewhere.

[SID8D2]

I held the throttle wide open while I turned it over. Is there something else I should be doing to keep the ACR's closed? I'll go read the shop manual again on how to preform a compression check on this Hog.

[SID8D2]

Oops, always in to big a hurry to do it right the fist time  Looks like I forgot the step about removing the A/C and holding the throttle body buterfly wide open. I'll try it again Monday night after work.

[SID8D2]

Wish I would have checked the SE Supplemental Service Manual before wasting my time again tonight doing a compression check. Tuesday's another night; I'll get her done.

[SID8D2]

Welp; Today I had the time to tear the front cyl down and do a clay check and found that the 2.120" intake valve is kissing the relief on the diameter. Just barely touching but diffently has been toughing. There is about .200" clearance on the depth but -.005 on the diameter. There is no sign of interference on the rear cyl but most likely its very close. Not sure what the fix is. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Waiting for Don to respond to a PM.
   Figuring the head will need to go back to Dewey for inspection/repair and the pistons will need to either be altered or replaced. So now it looks like the jugs & pistons need to come off. Damn, I've never done that on anything other than a KX80. Not sure what tools I'll need, but I guess the service manual will clue me in.
  Also found that my rockers had .012"-.013" end clearance so I plan on shimming them down to .004". Hope to quite this motor down. Road it stock for 32 miles and have put 67 miles on it after the upgrades (see signature). Hope I didn't hurt it to bad.

[HD Street Performance]

Nothing wrong with the head, all protrusions are equal and correct. The head will be fine assuming the valve that hit is not bent. The piston relief gets opened up by dremel simple as that and you are off and running. Tape everything up so no dust gets into any opening of the motor, be sure, you can't be careful enough. Or you can send me the piston and I open it up on the mill with a flycutter

Clay check them all!!!!!!!
And for the others that are doing motor work check yours and assume nothing. At the same time always replace the lower base orings

No shiny contact is not enough insurance against possible other issues. I like to see .060" minimum depth and .030 on the whole radius.

Also a side note pistons cut by a shop is not a 100% guarentee either of clearance, check them. Had a set of SE cast HC pistons a month ago that were cut wrong and the valves missed the new cuts altogether, not pretty and that one bent valves.

[SID8D2]

Got er done, Gonna pick up tools to remove and install jugs with new O-Rings tomorrow. Thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!!!

[SID8D2]

I got my ring compressor tool last Friday nt and a set of quad rings for the bottom of the jug. Placed all the ring gaps in position and got the lucky little lady out there to help lower the head down while I held the piston and ring compressor (and told her to be careful)  Got the rear jug done and moved on to the front. All went well. Assembled the rear complete with push rods adjusted (less the rocker cover) then the front. Picked up new exhaust gaskets Sat. morning and finshed it off. Fired it up and the tick tick tick is gone gone gone  I still want to pick up some rocker shims and reduce side to side play. Tonight gonna read up on the TTS and tomorrow do an oil/filter change and go for a ride and try to collect some data and begin to dial it in.

   I felt like this was way over my head but all it was was fear of the unknown. With the right tools, a service manual and this web site anything is possible.
       Thanks  See ya in the wind

[HD Street Performance]

Good job!
On the tune read the manual and follow their lead. Be sure to toggle off the PE and other features mentioned. Be sure to set the AFRs and CLB as they instruct.
You will need to figure a way to ride with the laptop flat and away from vibes. We have found they crash otherwise.
Try a very hard run WOT first to hit the high MAP cells and see if the corrected VEs are above 120 or so. If that is the case adjust the constants to increment that down other wise you could get a lot of lower speed Vtunes done and find out you will have to start over when you reach high fuel demand areas and the prescribed values are out of range.
I am not a tuner but this site has some sharp guys over in the tuning section to help.