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[gg]

Hi, I am ready to drill the holes for the bolts to hold the fullsacs in place. My question has to do with using a punch (or whatever it's called) to prep the spots for drilling the hole in each muffler shell/body. Those of you who have done this yourself, how did you use the punch without creating a larger dent in the muffler shell? Did you put something inside the muffler body to brace the area where you were going to use the punch? Thanks

[GregKhougaz]

Have done three sets of fullsacs:  Worried about this issue so used a hammer and sharp nail to make the smallest of imperfections on the muffler can.  Then used the smallest drill bit in the set (can't recall the sizes) and worked up to the quarter inch bit, one size at a time.  Figured this would put the least pressure on the muffler can.  Worked fine but I would not be surprised if there was a better way.  

Took me a bit to find but you might want to read this thread:  Installing Fullsac Baffles on 09 CVO Road Glide.  Reply 12 talks about useing a punch before drilling. Good luck!

[scotr]

I did same thing. Used small nail and started with very small bit and kept getting bigger intil finished.

Scotr

[Occam]

I wonder if one of those spring-loaded punches might be safer, as you can tighten or loosen it for varying levels of pressure?

[Deuce Bigelow]

an automatic center punch should work perfectly!

[gg]

Thanks guys, as always you site members are willing to share the details of your experience with those who are less knowledgable. Did any of you who used a nail or center punch put anything (blocking) inside the muffler to prevent or minimize deformation of the muffler's outer shell when struck with the nail or center punch? I was thinking of trying to rig up something with a wood block, but not sure that will work. Thanks again.

[HDDOCFL]

Go easy with the center punch, and start with a very small drill bit. No need to dent the can.   Doc

[Boatman]

I think you fellows are worrying too much.  I've done 2 sets by doing with a center punch (unsupported) and am doing a set over the weekend.  The holes are on the bottom of the shell.  

Putting a block inside the shell for support won't hurt, but the shell is pretty stout.

[Gettinold]

I think you fellows are worrying too much.  I've done 2 sets by doing with a center punch (unsupported) and am doing a set over the weekend.  The holes are on the bottom of the shell.  

Putting a block inside the shell for support won't hurt, but the shell is pretty stout.

  your making me laugh Robert

[Boatman]

your making me laugh Robert

Happy I could start your day off with a laugh Dave.

Say hello to Helen and tell her to post once in a while.

[blw]

I have installed one set of Fullsac cores and doing another this weekend. My problem was getting something to reach the welds sufficiently to grind them out.  Can those of you who have did this without problems tell me exactly what tool and size { type } bits that you used.   Thanks, Barry

[grc]

All you need to do is provide a small dimple to keep the drill bit from walking until it bites into the metal.  Use a sharp center punch and a light tap with a hammer, or an automatic spring loaded center punch.  As long as you don't haul out the 3 pound hammer and take a big swing, shouldn't have a problem.


Jerry

[charles05663]

I also found that using masking/blue tape helps too.  It keeps the area free from a wondering bit.

[dartman]

I have installed one set of Fullsac cores and doing another this weekend. My problem was getting something to reach the welds sufficiently to grind them out.  Can those of you who have did this without problems tell me exactly what tool and size { type } bits that you used.   Thanks, Barry

These Dremel bits worked best for me , They are slower then cutting bits but much less destructive if you slip.

[gg]

Thanks again guys, I am ready to go.

BLW along with the dremel bit pictured above, you also want to make sure you have plenty of light shining into the muffler assembly so you can clearly see the weld as you grind it slowly down. First grind that part of the weld that is on top of the insert flange. Do not immediately grind that portion of the weld that comes in direct contact with the muffler side wall. Once you have ground down the weld on the flange, gently tap the insert toward the inlet end of the muffler. This may break loose the weld. It is also ok to grind some of the flange where the weld is, because that may help the insert break free faster. If that does not get the insert free, you will need to carefully grind the remaining portion of the weld that contacts the muffler side wall. Go slowly with this and keep testing the weld to see if it will break loose when you tap the rear of the insert toward the inlet (front) of the muffler. The first one is the hardest, until you get the knack of what you're doing. good luck