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[PAPA T]

I am getting some free labor from my local dealer courtesy of H-D (See thread here:   http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=47421.msg712746#msg712746)

Since they will have it all apart I was sure people here could help me spend some money on upgrades!

Do i really need to get crank welded and pinned for a mild build?

I think I am gonna try the Andrews 54H cam this time?

What kind of head work?

Pistons/rings?

Adjustable push rods.

Bearing replacement?

As you can tell I have a few Questions.

Just looking for some more low to mid torque.

Thanks  Tim

[Fired00d]

If the bottom end is apart I would definitely get the crank trued/welded for nothing more then peace of mind... who knows what you may want to do later... mild build might be just the starting point.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[skyhook]

i like the headwork from site members dewey's heads or hillside...the head porter will have cam recommendations...i have 14k miles on my 10.5 compression, 115hp/115tq '08 fxdse and no oil leaks or signs of crank failure...i didn't replace pistons, rings, or cylinders and haven't had problems...if something's wrong with yours, the builders i listed above could help you with boring and piston options

if you're worried about crank failure, have runout checked at time of cam installation and go from there

[HD Street Performance]

The beauty of the 110 is with careful component choosing they can retain the low end torque and then hit hard on top.

The heads have some basic reliability issues to fix first before worrying about airflow, like changing the guides. I have been doing a lot of 110 heads lately and I see most with oil that has traveled down the exhaust guides and carbons up in the port on the valve stem and many have valves that are nearly seized. When this gets bad it rips the guide out of the head, yep have had a few of those too. The solution is AV&V guides properly sized and premium viton valve seals.

Most low end torque I can suggest would come from a Woods TW5-6 but moving right up the line with added compression a 408-44 or even a 408 (.650 lift) with the proper setup would not cost much down low if any and pull like a freight train on top.

[Heatwave]

Here's the current dyno from my Hillside 110 build (2010 SEUC). Upgraded valves and guides as Dewey suggested. Woods 408-6 cam (.650 lift), larger throttle body, larger injectors, roller rockers, adj. pushrods, Ventilator A/C and D&D FatCat exhaust. This dyno is from Jan. and I'm confident that the multiple upgraded maps using Smarttune has measureably improved on these results as the bike pulls much stronger down low as well as wide open. Very pleased with the result and looking forward to getting it dynoed to see if the improvements I'm feeling in the throttle actually shows up on the dyno.

[Black Diamond]

I am getting some free labor from my local dealer courtesy of H-D (See thread here:   http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=47421.msg712746#msg712746)

Since they will have it all apart I was sure people here could help me spend some money on upgrades!

Do i really need to get crank welded and pinned for a mild build?

I think I am gonna try the Andrews 54H cam this time?

What kind of head work?

Pistons/rings?

Adjustable push rods.

Bearing replacement?

As you can tell I have a few Questions.

Just looking for some more low to mid torque.

Thanks  Tim

Tim,

Based on my experience with builders I would recommend the following:

1st determine what results you are looking for. Be specific based on how you ride. What percentage are you 1 up / 2up. What rpm range do you like to ride in. Are you aggressive or do you perfer cruising. What is your definition of low to mid torque?

Who does the wrench at your shop recommend? Based on prior experience? Good and bad experiences.

I have used and recommend
Bob Wood @  http://www.woodcarbs.com/ with a W6 in my FXR
Scott Palmer @ http://www.hillsidecycle.com/ recommendation on milling heads and cam for FXR
TR @ http://www.tmanperformance.com/ Stage 3 heads and TR590 cam for my 117 SERK

All asked a lot of question like those above to get me what I was looking for.

I will add to call Dave Mackie @ http://www.davemackie.com/  I have talked with him on a possible future build based on the recommendation of two members here as well as one out back in the garage. He answers his own phone and talked with me for 25 minutes even tho I made it clear I was not buying now.

I agree with Gary (Dood) if the bottom is opened up, true & weld the crank for piece of mind.

Good luck with your build and have fun being involved with it. BTW: the Wood W6 or TR525 may just fill the ticket for a mild build if your definition is the same as mine. Hopefully Scott will see your post. He's sharp.

JW