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[mike55]

The high beam effectiveness is disappointing, considering upgrades.  Me thinks I found some faulty engineering or reference data from HD.  Service manual charts shows low beam as 68096-04, high beam as 68881-01.  Factory parts guide includes cross ref to SAE numbers - low beam shows as H-8, high beam as H-11.  H-8 bulbs are rated @ 35-40 watt, 2.7 amp.  H-11 bulbs are rated @ 55 watt , 4.3 amp. Both bulbs are lit on high.  Makes sense so far.  Pull the headlamp out of the nacelle -- guess what?  The low beam (upper element in housing) has H-11 molded into the back side of reflector next to the socket.  The high beam (lower element in housing) has H-8 molded into back side of reflector. THE SPECIFICATION BOOKS ARE OPPOSITE OF THE ACTUAL. The H-8 will go into the upper socket, but not the reverse - a little work with dremel tool on either the housing or the bulb base would enable swapping of both elements.  Has anyone noticed this before?  Has anyone received clarification from HD?  Has anyone installed H-11, or the even hotter H-9 in the high-beam socket?

[1abastarsmda]

I'll be curious to see answers to this one.

[Sklywag]

You are correct, I discovered this 3 years ago on my 06.  I purchased another H11, 55w bulb and installed it in the high beam.  Yes, a little work with the dremel tool took care of making it fit.  I have been running it this way for 3 years now & have much better lighting.

[1abastarsmda]

Okay, so there's a difference besides what's printed in the specs and what's stamped on the back of the reflector.  So, what bulbs are actually each socket?  I'm trying to order an HID conversion kit to replace only the low beam and now I don't know whether I should be getting an H8 or H11.  You've really just added to my confusion.

[1abastarsmda]

I just spoke to my dealer and they told me that low beam should be H11 and high beam should be H8.  Is this the correct configuration?  To get the low beam HID, it looks like I should be looking for the H11, whereas I was previously looking for an H8.  Is that the norm, that the low beam is the more powerful lamp?

[Twolanerider]

I just spoke to my dealer and they told me that low beam should be H11 and high beam should be H8.  Is this the correct configuration?  To get the low beam HID, it looks like I should be looking for the H11, whereas I was previously looking for an H8.  Is that the norm, that the low beam is the more powerful lamp?

Honestly on the HID's don't worry about it.  It's been discovered for awhile that most of the aftermarket really aren't distinguishing between otherwise interchangeable bulbs in day to day practice.

That's a benefit to you also.  If you buy two single kits (i.e., one H8 and one H11) from most of the aftermarket vendors they'll charge you more than if you buy a two buld/ballast automotive kit.  So order an H11 automotive kit.  Spend a little less.  They'll likely be the same bulbs you'd have gotten otherwise anyway.

One other consideration when using the same bulb in both holes.  You'll find that the focus of the reflectors in each area of the housing is making a huge difference in how far you shoot light down the road.

[1abastarsmda]

I ordered a kit with 2 H11's.  So, from what you are saying, I could use one for high and one for low and install both as H11's???  Actually, I screwed up my order and ordered H8's and just sent them an e-mail to correct my error.  I'm hoping that they catch my e-mail and match it to the order.

[naitram]

i had ordered one of each and recieved 2 of the same, when i contacted the vendor they told me they are the same bulb just notched slightly differently

[mike55]

More facts about this.   The factory bulbs installed in my 2009 CVO Ultra match the molded-in specs on the back of the reflector - which is the OPPOSITE of the parts books and spec chart in the CVO Ultra service manual.   These bulbs are NOT equivalent.  H8 & H11, along with the much hotter H9 (65 watt) have bases that are very close - but not exactly the same.  The possible problems of installing a bulb that draws 55 watts (H11) in an application that is designed for 35 watts include blown fuses and damaged reflector &/or lens from additional heat that is generated.  BTW - as you go up in wattage with these halogen bulbs - the life span goes down.  It is interesting that in the "as installed" condition - this bike has more total headlamp wattage on the road on low, than on high - due to the fact the the 2 auxiliary lights are lit on low beam.  Here are some good sources for reference info.  www.candlepowerinc.com , www.danielsternlighting.com, and GE's website has a very lengthy spec chart.  Don't buy all that crap from some bulb sellers that claim their special nuclear activated bulb produces 55 watts of usable light for the electrical load of a 35 watt.  And if the bulb is tinted - you automatically get LESS light - it might be "whiter" or even blue or yellow or something else - but 35 watts is still 35 watts - and tinting the bulb reduces the emitted light - rule of physics.  We have a pretty good mystery here - I'm doubtful that the local dealer can provide credible answer,  if they even understand the issue.

[1abastarsmda]

More facts about this.   The factory bulbs installed in my 2009 CVO Ultra match the molded-in specs on the back of the reflector - which is the OPPOSITE of the parts books and spec chart in the CVO Ultra service manual.   These bulbs are NOT equivalent.  H8 & H11, along with the much hotter H9 (65 watt) have bases that are very close - but not exactly the same.  The possible problems of installing a bulb that draws 55 watts (H11) in an application that is designed for 35 watts include blown fuses and damaged reflector &/or lens from additional heat that is generated.  BTW - as you go up in wattage with these halogen bulbs - the life span goes down.  It is interesting that in the "as installed" condition - this bike has more total headlamp wattage on the road on low, than on high - due to the fact the the 2 auxiliary lights are lit on low beam.  Here are some good sources for reference info.  www.candlepowerinc.com , www.danielsternlighting.com, and GE's website has a very lengthy spec chart.  Don't buy all that crap from some bulb sellers that claim their special nuclear activated bulb produces 55 watts of usable light for the electrical load of a 35 watt.  And if the bulb is tinted - you automatically get LESS light - it might be "whiter" or even blue or yellow or something else - but 35 watts is still 35 watts - and tinting the bulb reduces the emitted light - rule of physics.  We have a pretty good mystery here - I'm doubtful that the local dealer can provide credible answer,  if they even understand the issue.

With that said, if I have 2 H11's HID that are 35W, am I safe with using one each in the high and low beam?

[Twolanerider]

With that said, if I have 2 H11's HID that are 35W, am I safe with using one each in the high and low beam?

Yes.

[mike55]

If you have 2 H-11 bulbs, you have 2 55 watt bulbs.  The industry standard for H-11 is 55 watt.  The industry standard for H-8 varies from 35watt - 40 watt.  The 55 watt bulb will draw more current, and generate more heat - while producing more light.  The reflector may, or may not, be able to efficiently make use of the additional light.  A glass lens as used on my Ultra should be fine with the heat, polycarbonate or other plastic materials may be less tolerant.  The chrome plated plastic reflector might be less tolerant.  Manufacturers usually build in a healthy dose of excess electrical load capacity in most circuits for a margin of safety - so I doubt that fuses will be blown.

[1abastarsmda]

If you have 2 H-11 bulbs, you have 2 55 watt bulbs.  The industry standard for H-11 is 55 watt.  The industry standard for H-8 varies from 35watt - 40 watt.  The 55 watt bulb will draw more current, and generate more heat - while producing more light.  The reflector may, or may not, be able to efficiently make use of the additional light.  A glass lens as used on my Ultra should be fine with the heat, polycarbonate or other plastic materials may be less tolerant.  The chrome plated plastic reflector might be less tolerant.  Manufacturers usually build in a healthy dose of excess electrical load capacity in most circuits for a margin of safety - so I doubt that fuses will be blown.

The industry standard for HID H-11's are 35W.  Halogen H-11's are 55W.  Thus, the question above in the first place.

[mike55]

A note about "HID" lamps.  These should not be confused with H8, H11, H9, H4 etc lamps.  The "H" series lamps are halogen - which operate a different principle than either incandescent or HID.  Incandescent produces light by a glowing filament, halogen is a pressurized bulb where gas glows, and HID produces light from an electrical arc in a gas pressurized bulb - and requires a transformer for a huge bump-up in voltage.  The current technology for HID lamps generally preclude their use in "high" beam applications where there may be many rapid cycles of off-on-off.   I.E. - there is no such thing as an "HID H8" or "HID H11" lamp.  There are kits to install HID lamp systems in place of certain H series lamps.

[1abastarsmda]

A note about "HID" lamps.  These should not be confused with H8, H11, H9, H4 etc lamps.  The "H" series lamps are halogen - which operate a different principle than either incandescent or HID.  Incandescent produces light by a glowing filament, halogen is a pressurized bulb where gas glows, and HID produces light from an electrical arc in a gas pressurized bulb - and requires a transformer for a huge bump-up in voltage.  The current technology for HID lamps generally preclude their use in "high" beam applications where there may be many rapid cycles of off-on-off.   I.E. - there is no such thing as an "HID H8" or "HID H11" lamp.  There are kits to install HID lamp systems in place of certain H series lamps.

There's no confusion on this point.  Obviously, I'm referring to the HID kits to install in place of the H11 lamps.  But back to the original point of your thread, Harley should put out at least a letter to owners, as well as issue a bulletin to the dealers, to correct the mistake in the owner's manual.  I tried to contact Harley Customer Service, but of course they don't accept e-mails and have no voice mail available.  I will try to find a chance to call them tomorrow.  As you said, following the info in the manual, there is potential for damage.