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[gamb]

i have a 2009 cvo road glide that i plan to remove cat,install fullsac 2 inch baffles,clean heads(remove black and smooth things  in and out),add andrews 54H camshafts,and .030 head gaskets. question??? i was told that i could use stock push rods?  is this correct??? 255 cam lift is 550 and 54H is 555 and you are using a thinner head gasket.any information on topic would be appreciated! thanks

[trippy]

Hi,

If you use a thinner head gasket(Cometic .30) you need to check the base circle dimensions of the 54s, made that mistake last year,it is not just the lift at TDC you need to wory about, if the base circle is the same as the HD255s
then you will need adjustable push rods, this very problem cost me a set of cams and lifters, they were both destoyed.
I changed my 255s for Zippers 575s but I did not check the base circle dimensions against that of the 255s and because the base circle was larger, it did not allow the lifters to unload properly, and the lifter roller/cam lobe
over heated and then the lifter rollers flat sided which then damaged the up ramp on the cams.

Oh sh*t wont make that mistake again.

Take my advice use adjustable pushrods.

Good Luck.

[GregKhougaz]

Gamb,

    I have the same set up.  Steve at Fullsac convinced me to use the stock push rods saying the are reliable and will not require adjustments.  He told me that many mechanics will tell you to replace with adjustable so they don't have to remove the heads.  Since you're going to pull the head anyway.  It does not matter.  You might want to look at this thread if you have not already:  CVO 110 Andrews 54 dyno test! 120 LBS Torque! 102 HP!

     Good luck!

GK

[trippy]

Hi,

I know the Andrews 54s are quoted as bolt-in(meaning that you dont need adjustable pushrods), but that is
using the standard HD headgasket (45-50 thou), if you are using the cometic .30 headgasket (as i am) i think
you should be using adjustable pushrods, by the way I am also putting in the 54s with the .30 headgasket,
and I am using adjustables, but to be safe contact Andrews.

My mistake with the zippers 575s and .30 headgasket and standard pushrods cost me over $600.

Good luck.

[grc]

Hi,

I know the Andrews 54s are quoted as bolt-in(meaning that you dont need adjustable pushrods), but that is
using the standard HD headgasket (45-50 thou), if you are using the cometic .30 headgasket (as i am) i think
you should be using adjustable pushrods, by the way I am also putting in the 54s with the .30 headgasket,
and I am using adjustables, but to be safe contact Andrews.

My mistake with the zippers 575s and .30 headgasket and standard pushrods cost me over $600.

Good luck.

Nope, that's not what "bolt-in" means.  A "bolt-in" cam is one that doesn't require valve spring changes to accommodate lift.  The pushrods are usually swapped out for quick install adjustables when a "bolt-in" cam is installed, because the whole idea is to change cams without removing the heads or the rocker covers.  If the rocker covers or the heads are coming off, one of the Perfect Fit one piece pushrods can usually be used as long as you match the length properly with the base circle diameter of the cam and you take into account any change in assembled height of the cylinders and heads (gasket thickness, head milling, etc.).  The one piece pushrod is desireable over the adjustables for several reasons, two of which are reliability and weight.  If the stock one piece pushrod isn't the right size, check the catalog for the other available sizes, or try the aftermarket.


Jerry

[graygost267]

Speaking of cams, I read recently that the 110 ci on my FLHTCUSE3 could be juiced up by replacing the OEM cams with .615 gear dive cams.  I have searched the internet but have not found cam fitting that description.   I looked at Andrews, Woods and found another brand.  I replaced the  the air cleaner and the slipons and added V&H headers and the SE touring slipon.  I recently had the dealer put the SE  Pro Race tuner on, but it ran terrible, so I took it off. Does anyone have a source or manufactuer for a .615 lift gear driven set of cams.  I talked to a pretty good tech at the local HD shop and he said it should provide a little better performance.  I am interested to find out if anyone has some advice on this subject.  Is it worth the cost and will it improve performance?  Would appreciate any feedback.  I not not looking to race the bike just get an increase in performance without breaking the bank.   

[HD Street Performance]

OK so the thinner gasket takes the stack height down (shorter pushrod) and the less base circle goes the other way. Run it with stock pushrods.

[colcop]

Hi Graygost,

I have R&R 615 gear drive cams fitted.

Contact Randy at www.kingofcubes.com. He was really good with me, set the cams and everything so that they could just be slipped in.
Also fitted R&R heads and Axtell cylinders - that was just my preference.

Best of luck

Colcop

[graygost267]

Thanks Colcop for the info.  I have written to Randy to get some more info and advice.  I appreciate the feedback.   
Ken Shepard
aka: graygost

[grc]

Speaking of cams, I read recently that the 110 ci on my FLHTCUSE3 could be juiced up by replacing the OEM cams with .615 gear dive cams.  I have searched the internet but have not found cam fitting that description.   I looked at Andrews, Woods and found another brand.  I replaced the  the air cleaner and the slipons and added V&H headers and the SE touring slipon.  I recently had the dealer put the SE  Pro Race tuner on, but it ran terrible, so I took it off. Does anyone have a source or manufactuer for a .615 lift gear driven set of cams.  I talked to a pretty good tech at the local HD shop and he said it should provide a little better performance.  I am interested to find out if anyone has some advice on this subject.  Is it worth the cost and will it improve performance?  Would appreciate any feedback.  I not not looking to race the bike just get an increase in performance without breaking the bank.   

Why fixate on a particular lift cam (one that doesn't ring any bells, by the way)?  Lift is just one of the parameters you need to look at, and it's not necessarily the most important.  And in this case, .615" is more than the current 110 Touring heads with the updated valve guides can handle, so you'd be looking at some head work to use such a cam.  And gear drives can be problematic unless you plan to do something about the runout of the crankshaft.

You mentioned that the dealer "put the SE Pro Race tuner on, but it ran terrible so I took it off".  I'm not sure what product they "put on" your bike, but the SERT/SEST isn't something that's put on the bike, it's software that allows someone to change the fuel and spark maps in the ECM.  I think you need to find a good tuner, not necessarily a dealership person, to walk you through the choices and to tune your bike properly.  And don't forget it's not just a single component like a cam that makes for a good engine, it's the total combination of items working together.  Throwing a big honking cam in an otherwise stock engine will most likely result in a POS that you won't enjoy riding at all.  Get the bike tuned properly, then if you think you need more oomph talk to a good tuner or engine builder about a "package" of changes to achieve whatever performance goals you have.


Jerry

[graygost267]

Hi Jerry (grc):  Thanks for your comments.  Every year that I can, I enjoy going to the Talledega track as a part of the annual  MDA drive, and getting the chance to open the bike up and see what it'll do.  The lean factory mixture really is not made for good acceration.  BTW, I did buy the SE PRO Race tuner and I realize that it is not installed.  Problem is that there is no one in my local area that I can find that knows how to use that tuner and make it work like it is supposed to.  The Performance Plus folks that always have a page in the Easyrider magazine, frequent the rallies with their van are located in Nashville, a couple of miles up the road from where I live.  I have talked to them and they say that the Power Commander they use along with another module that self tunes, will make my bike run like a dream and give me between 42 and 45 MPG and plenty of pickup.  I think I am going to give it a try.  I appreciate your comments and thanks for taking the time to respond.

Ken Shepard
aka: graygost267

[HD Street Performance]

Try
Rods Performance
Hanceville, AL
I don't know if they are familiar with the SEST (doesn't hurt to ask) but they are a good shop

[graygost267]

Deweysheads:  I know Rod's Performance.  He did some work on my 04 Ultra.  He usually doesn't work with the SERT preferring the Power Commander.  I might give him a call and talk to him about what I want to achieve.  Thanks for the "heads-up".

Ken

[HD Street Performance]

BPA
CALHOUN, GA 30701
706-629-9776

Very sharp and SERT sauve
No idea how far that is sorry west coaster I am

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Speaking of cams, I read recently that the 110 ci on my FLHTCUSE3 could be juiced up by replacing the OEM cams with .615 gear dive cams.  I have searched the internet but have not found cam fitting that description.   I looked at Andrews, Woods and found another brand.  I replaced the  the air cleaner and the slipons and added V&H headers and the SE touring slipon.  I recently had the dealer put the SE  Pro Race tuner on, but it ran terrible, so I took it off. Does anyone have a source or manufactuer for a .615 lift gear driven set of cams.  I talked to a pretty good tech at the local HD shop and he said it should provide a little better performance.  I am interested to find out if anyone has some advice on this subject.  Is it worth the cost and will it improve performance?  Would appreciate any feedback.  I not not looking to race the bike just get an increase in performance without breaking the bank.   

If you want the "juiced up" a Wood TW-408-6, set up correctly, will never have you wondering if you did it wrong.
Scott