You can choose which cam suits your riding style. The heads will go there and when you get above ~10.2/1 CR needed then the head chamber will remain near stock size and a pop-up piston is used.
Your power output will be determined by the tight seal of the motor (how well the factory did their thing or your bore and hone job and re-ring if pistons are swapped), the squish distance (some have pistons .007-.010 down in the hole), the cam choice, ~~~pipe choice~~~, the quality of the tune, and if FBW equipped the airflow potential of this choice.
I have had a 110 make 113hp/121TQ with the Woods 5 @ 9.7/1 and have had some with the 7 not do as well. Not a statement that one is better than the other but more that the other factors I mentioned need to be right. I had one with a Wood 7 jump 10hp by just changing the pipe from Caliber Slip-Ons (07) to a FatCat (the dyno was posted here).
The head product is very consistent and every one is flowed and a flow sheet supplied. It is the owners responsibility to do their homework. If I owned one first thing I would do is a leakdown, piston at the top middle and bottom positions. Next check pinion runout. Just a few prerequisites.
These 110s have the potential to rip with the best of them and live too but they are a little more pipe sensitive and the inherent issues need to be checked and fixed to get good performance and reliability out of them.