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[sugarbear20]

Just got back from ride after guttin header and installing fullsac 1.75. Steve they are puurfect. Can hear radio cruising and just the right growl rolling on.

[heatseeker]

After reading everybodies thoughts on fullsac's stage 1 kit with 2" cores. I talked with Steve and he assured me that I would be well pleased. So now I am waiting to get home from the middleeast and get it installed.

[sugarbear20]

After reading everybodies thoughts on fullsac's stage 1 kit with 2" cores. I talked with Steve and he assured me that I would be well pleased. So now I am waiting to get home from the middleeast and get it installed.

At one time I swore by the hooker adjustable slip ons but these sound even better

[gg]

Fullsac, for the price can't be beaten. I have the 2.25 inch version and like them, but during acceleration, be aware that they do not have quite the same bark or volume as the Rinehart 3.5 inch mufflers had on my 05 SEEG. It's all personal preference anyway.

[dont57]

Have been running the FULLSAC 2" cores for a couple of years now and they are sounding as good as the day they were installed.  I Used the the stock bating surrounding the original baffles to wrap the new cores.  Combined with high flow air filter (Zippers MaxFlow) and TTS Master Tune, the 08 SERK4 runs great.  I have the Andrews 54 cam waiting to be installed and will remap the ECM after using TTS Vtune and FULLSAC provided base map.  Plan to get this done in the next 3 weeks, honey do's keep getting in the way, will post results after a few miles are put on after the change.

[doubledown]

Don't 57...I would be real interested in your opinion on the andrews 54's I am running the same set up as you and the 54's are my next move. To the OP I have the 2" fullsac baffles and love them. I think they even sound better than the Rienhart true duels I had on my 88".

[Jerry/MD]

Just got back from ride after guttin header and installing fullsac 1.75. Steve they are puurfect. Can hear radio cruising and just the right growl rolling on.

Yep...the 1.75's provide just the right 'bark'...and you won't go deaf.

Another plus...the wife hasn't complained about the increase in noise. 

[sugarbear20]

just got back from the dealer. The dyno was down so tech put a canned map in until dyno was repaired. It decelled and tried to die. I turned around and carried it back to him. He put his own numbers in and now it runs like a raped ape. I will carry it back next week for the dyno more out of curiosty than changes. He said they had just come out with a setting for ethanol I didn't know that. Anyway it runs good for now will check on dyno next week.

[Robmay]

just got back from the dealer. The dyno was down so tech put a canned map in until dyno was repaired. It decelled and tried to die. I turned around and carried it back to him. He put his own numbers in and now it runs like a raped ape. I will carry it back next week for the dyno more out of curiosty than changes. He said they had just come out with a setting for ethanol I didn't know that. Anyway it runs good for now will check on dyno next week.

How'd the dyno go?

[dave29]

I luv my 1 3/4" Fulsacs.

[Robmay]

I luv my 1 3/4" Fulsacs.

Mine just showed up UPS along with the Xpipe. Going to install them now. Anyone have the link on the install of baffles? Looking for it thru search function now.

[gaphatty]

Mine just showed up UPS along with the Xpipe. Going to install them now. Anyone have the link on the install of baffles? Looking for it thru search function now.

Pretty easy swap - remove mufflers, do the grinding, drill and mount new baffles; remove oxy sensor wires (FLHX are under right side cover) then remove oxy sensors, heat shields and head pipes.

Install oxy sensors to new x-pipe, then install x-pipe on bide being careful of the sensors - reinstall heat shields BEING CAREFUL to no over-tighten (or you'll get dimples  ), then re-install mufflers.

Take your time and you should have the whole thing wrapped up in a couple of hours without an issue.  Don't rush or force anything and all will be good!

[Robmay]

Pretty easy swap - remove mufflers, do the grinding, drill and mount new baffles; remove oxy sensor wires (FLHX are under right side cover) then remove oxy sensors, heat shields and head pipes.

Install oxy sensors to new x-pipe, then install x-pipe on bide being careful of the sensors - reinstall heat shields BEING CAREFUL to no over-tighten (or you'll get dimples  ), then re-install mufflers.

Take your time and you should have the whole thing wrapped up in a couple of hours without an issue.  Don't rush or force anything and all will be good!

Cool. I was concerned about the baffles mainly. Sounds pretty straight forward to me. Thank you.

I have the 2.25 and 1.75 baffles. Replacing my stock setup. Guess I will try the 2.25" first. Reading a lot of different (opposite) opinions on each so I'll have to see for myself. Everyone's preference is different to some degree I reckon. 

[gaphatty]

Cool. I was concerned about the baffles mainly. Sounds pretty straight forward to me. Thank you.

I have the 2.25 and 1.75 baffles. Replacing my stock setup. Guess I will try the 2.25" first. Reading a lot of different (opposite) opinions on each so I'll have to see for myself. Everyone's preference is different to some degree I reckon. 

I could not decide either so went with the 2.0 inch and like the result.  The hard part of the stock muffler removal is just getting to those welds - I had a 90 degree angle grinder and a long burr bit that would allow pretty good access; you don't want to grind through the muffler body.  Others have tried dremel tools but I think they're a bit weak for the application.

[10SE5]

Make sure you plan where you drill your holes! I did mine like I have them on my Wide Glide, At the 9 and 3 oclock position where I thought they would not be seen. Wrong! They jump out at my everytime I look back there. If I had to do it over I would drill at the 6 oclock position.