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[grc]

JR, on our bikes it's easier to just change the primary ratio rather than mess with the trans sprocket and drive belt.  Basically you just change the compensator sprocket and the clutch sprocket to the ratio used on the early Twin Cam's, which changes the overall gearing in fifth from 3.15:1 to 3.37:1.  The parts are readily available from Harley as well as the aftermarket, and it's a pretty common modification that most shops are very familiar with.


Jerry

[JR]

JR, on our bikes it's easier to just change the primary ratio rather than mess with the trans sprocket and drive belt.  Basically you just change the compensator sprocket and the clutch sprocket to the ratio used on the early Twin Cam's, which changes the overall gearing in fifth from 3.15:1 to 3.37:1.  The parts are readily available from Harley as well as the aftermarket, and it's a pretty common modification that most shops are very familiar with.


Jerry

Thanks Jerry!

[Dan_Lockwood]

JR, on our bikes it's easier to just change the primary ratio rather than mess with the trans sprocket and drive belt.  Basically you just change the compensator sprocket and the clutch sprocket to the ratio used on the early Twin Cam's, which changes the overall gearing in fifth from 3.15:1 to 3.37:1.  The parts are readily available from Harley as well as the aftermarket, and it's a pretty common modification that most shops are very familiar with.


Jerry

Jerry, EVO Industries has a new revised machined steel clutch ring gear and 49t sprocket that can be attached to the original clutch basket or you can get their complete billet clutch basket with all the new sprocket/gear combo.

The kit is a new primary chain and ring gear and 49t sprocket with gaskets.  The kit $515.00.  The earlier ones were machined from aluminum and they were $324.00 for the kit.

This kit gives about a 7% reduction, just a half percent or so more than the 30t belt front sprocket.  I have a 30t and Falcon belt, but still might lean towards the primary change out instead.

[rayson56]

Wasn't there an issue with reprogramming the speedo with this change, as opposed to the 30T?

[pigfixer]

Anyone know the correction numbers to put in a thundermax ign, to correct the speedo for the gearing change ?
taking two from the trans sprocket would be like adding four to the wheel sprocket, T=max has a correction factor for this set up in there software, would this get me close ?
TIA

[Fullsac Performance]

Jerry, EVO Industries has a new revised machined steel clutch ring gear and 49t sprocket that can be attached to the original clutch basket or you can get their complete billet clutch basket with all the new sprocket/gear combo.

The kit is a new primary chain and ring gear and 49t sprocket with gaskets.  The kit $515.00.  The earlier ones were machined from aluminum and they were $324.00 for the kit.

This kit gives about a 7% reduction, just a half percent or so more than the 30t belt front sprocket.  I have a 30t and Falcon belt, but still might lean towards the primary change out instead.

I had one of those Evo ind kits come through my shop on a 103 LTD that I dynoed. It made a noticeable kind of whirring noise from the primary.
I assume the chain going around the larger clutch hub sprocket must hit the tensioner at a different angle. I'm not saying it was going to fly apart, but a long term
evaluation of this new noise might be of interest. I was really considering this route until I heard this one.

Steve

[moscooter]

 
A few yrs ago,  right after I installed an M-6 tensioner on my R. King,  it too made a "whirring" sound,  but that noise went away after a couple of thousand miles or so.

My guess it was the chain against the nylon shoe making that noise until it finally wore itself down a little.  I never had any follow on problems with it.

[copout221]

So my machine is in the shop now for the 30t and belt swap. I am tired of being passed up by my buddy on his 2011 FLHX with a 103, TW55 cams , tune, and V&H power duals. Here are my questions for anyone who may know the answers.

1. Can someone with this same mod confirm that I will only notice a PULL / TORQUE difference from a dead stop or low RPM's or will I get it throughout the entire power-band through each gear ? I have been told that my bike will NOT pull any better from roll on's and that doesn't seem to make sense.

2. Does anyone know (possibly Steve if you read this) what number I should use for the speedo offset ?? I have the TTS and would like to do the adjustment once rather than multiple times.

[grc]

So my machine is in the shop now for the 30t and belt swap. I am tired of being passed up by my buddy on his 2011 FLHX with a 103, TW55 cams , tune, and V&H power duals. Here are my questions for anyone who may know the answers.

1. Can someone with this same mod confirm that I will only notice a PULL / TORQUE difference from a dead stop or low RPM's or will I get it throughout the entire power-band through each gear ? I have been told that my bike will NOT pull any better from roll on's and that doesn't seem to make sense.

2. Does anyone know (possibly Steve if you read this) what number I should use for the speedo offset ?? I have the TTS and would like to do the adjustment once rather than multiple times.

You need to hang out with a more knowledgeable crowd.  A final drive gear ratio change will be effective at all engine speeds and in all transmission gears, not just from a dead stop, and will definitely be noticeable in roll on performance and passing maneuvers.  You will likely find what used to require a downshift will now just take a twist of the wrist.


Jerry

[copout221]

You need to hang out with a more knowledgeable crowd.  A final drive gear ratio change will be effective at all engine speeds and in all transmission gears, not just from a dead stop, and will definitely be noticeable in roll on performance and passing maneuvers.  You will likely find what used to require a downshift will now just take a twist of the wrist.


Jerry

Thanks Jerry, that's what I thought and makes sense.

[ruiner73]

2. Does anyone know (possibly Steve if you read this) what number I should use for the speedo offset ?? I have the TTS and would like to do the adjustment once rather than multiple times.

If you've got the TTS you should just be able to use that for the speedo correction, I watched my dyno guy do it, there is a screeen where you just input your tire & wheels size & if I remember right the number of teeth on the pulleys. I know there was a number posted in this thread for 2011 CVO street glides & I tried that number & it didn't work on mine. After a couple tries up & down from the suggested number with no luck we just entered the tire size & pulleys and it ended up dead on at 60. Gets a little off any faster.
I guess I'm just trying to say go with the facts from your bike in the TTS & you should be good, tho I've never hooked it up personally, I'm too afraid to screw something up...

[Fullsac Performance]

You need to hang out with a more knowledgeable crowd.  


Jerry

Jerry, your killing me. Lol

Yes, will pull harder everywhere. Add 200 points to your speed calc number to get started.

Steve
Fullsac Performance

[timtoolman]

i have one and its yes also, But!  now you need cams and  and motor work he did to his.  He still may pass you!!  But you will be quicker starting

[fatboybern]

Just in the middle of this conversion now really didn't want to get into it now but had no choice as my stock belt is missing 6 or so cogs damn it ah well I am sure it will be worth my while in the end does anyone no of a way to calibrate the speedo without having to purchase a seperate tuner as I only have the super tuner can the dealer do this calibration

[HOGMIKE]

Just in the middle of this conversion now really didn't want to get into it now but had no choice as my stock belt is missing 6 or so cogs damn it ah well I am sure it will be worth my while in the end does anyone no of a way to calibrate the speedo without having to purchase a seperate tuner as I only have the super tuner can the dealer do this calibration

Go for a ride and check your speedo against a good GPS, and I bet you won't be too far off "true" MPH.