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[rayson56]

Not a dumb question at all. I am not a computer guy either. I had a buddy of mine come by to make sure I didn't screw this up. Watching him navigate through the TTS made the process look extremely easy. I think the recalibration window popped up automatically. There was a place to change from 32 tooth pulley to 30 T and don't forget to double check for, and input the right rear tire size. Oh and yes the calibration is now set @ 2251 + 50 = 2301. That of course is with the 180/55 B18 rear tire. Hope this helps. You're gonna love this upgrade!

[North Star]

Pulleys: 2007 - 2011 Baggers
Final Drive Ratio (’07 & ’08) = 2.79 with stk 32 T pulley
Final Drive Ratio (’07 & ’08) = 2.97 with AP 30 T pulley
Final Drive Ratio (’09 & ’11) = 2.87 with stk HD 32T pulley
Final Drive Ratio (’09 & ’11) = 2.97 with AP 31T pulley (OK w/stock belt)
Interesting that dropping down two teeth in an 07-08 model (30T), gives you the same final drive ratio as dropping down one tooth (31T) in a 09-11 model (which is 2.97).

I'm still trying to make up my mind, and I haven't heard anyone dispute what I said- if 07-08 owners are thrilled with a 2.97 final drive (32T to 30T for them), why wouldn't a 09-11 owner also be thrilled with a 2.97 final? (which is a 31T).

I realize going from their stock 2.79 to 2.97 is a more drastic difference than me going from a stock 2.87 to 2.97, but the end result is still the same 2.97?

[moscooter]

 
Northstar..........Half Crazy gave you the stats,  what more do you want

Those guys with the earlier models that made the swap to get to the 2.97 and report being "happy" with it,  they made a 6% plus change!!!!!!!!!

If you only go to a 31T,  your swap will only be about 3% plus from where you were before.  So you WILL NOT EXPERIENCE the same degree of gearing change that they did even though the final ratio is the same.

Sounds to me like you want to retain your stock belt if possible and not have to pay out for a -1Tooth belt that would be required if you went to the 30T which by the way you should do to be "happy" yourself

[Half_Crazy]

The questions become:
1) Is the 2.87 a good compromise between the 2.79 and 2.97 for low cruise rpm and available roll-on power in top gear?
2) Would it be worth a pulley change for the 0.10 change in final drive ratio (from 2.87 to 2.97)?
Maybe you could ride with someone that has an older bike w/30 tooth and see if you can even discern a difference.


In my situation with the Victory, 1st gear was WAY too tall (they fixed that in 2008). In traffic you would never get the clutch out, it was 15 mph or nothing and that sucked.
The 7% gearing change fixed that, but I like a bike with long legs. My wonderful .86:1 overdrive gear went to .92:1, at the drags I was making it to 5th gear (an extra shift) and crossing the finish line at 5000 rpm in 5th, and cruising at 80 mph went from 2900 rpm to 3120... so it was a compromise for sure.
Now that I bumped the rev limiter from 5800 rpm to 6700 rpm the long legs are back. It'll do almost 60 mph in 1st and will most likely finish a drag race in 4th gear with the same short gearing.

Not everyone will like the shorter gears. Everything is a compromise. We trade some of this for a little more of that and it's strictly a personal choice thing. 



 

[North Star]

:-
Northstar..........Half Crazy gave you the stats,  what more do you want

Those guys with the earlier models that made the swap to get to the 2.97 and report being "happy" with it,  they made a 6% plus change!!!!!!!!!

If you only go to a 31T,  your swap will only be about 3% plus from where you were before.  So you WILL NOT EXPERIENCE the same degree of gearing change that they did even though the final ratio is the same.

Sounds to me like you want to retain your stock belt if possible and not have to pay out for a -1Tooth belt that would be required if you went to the 30T which by the way you should do to be "happy" yourself

No I dont have an issue spending the dough for a belt.

Also, a big reason for doing this is for the SE compensator, so I dont look at it as spending 2-3 hrs labor for the pulley- the money is being spent upgrading the compensator, in my mind.

[North Star]

Question- with the 30T, it runs 250 rpm higher than stock at 80 mph/3000 rpms. What about lower speeds?

Is it that it will run 7% higher at any given rpm? If that's the case, I can do the math to answer my own question.....just wondering if +7% is the formula, because if it was then it would be 210 rpm higher at 3000 rpms, not 250.

Went for a nice long ride today and played around with cruising in 4th gear at 3000 rpm, then up a bit to cruise at 3200 rpm- ya, not much difference in feel, doesn't seem like it's revving TOO much higher.

Nice things about these bikes- the engines smooth out real nice around 3000 rpms...not like my last bike, a 1700 cc Yamaha- great engine, but it got buzzy around 3000 rpms. Funny how the Rineharts seem to mellow out too- unless my hearing is getting worse, lol.

[Half_Crazy]

Is it that it will run 7% higher at any given rpm? If that's the case, I can do the math to answer my own question...

The 7% was my Victory.

For you guys with '07-'08 bikes 2.79 x 1.065 = 2.97 (That's 6.5%)
What was 2500 RPM x 1.065 becomes 2662 (+162 RPM)
What was 3000 RPM x 1.065 becomes 3195 (+195 RPM)

For the '09 and up guys 2.87 x 1.035 = 2.97 (That's 3.5%)
What was 2500 RPM x 1.035 becomes 2587 (+87 RPM)
What was 3000 RPM x 1.035 becomes 3105 (+105 RPM)

So you see, even the 6.5% isn't huge... in 6th gear... But you have to remember it's ALL the gears that are shorter, not just 6th.


.

[North Star]

 That helps- when I ride a normal relaxed pace, I shift around 3000- so basically that will come 200 rpm sooner- I guess that doesn't sound like a big difference.

Thanks halfcrazy and everyone else.

[Half_Crazy]

I shift around 3000- so basically that will come 200 rpm sooner-

Huh?

[North Star]

I guess it would be more accurate to say shift points come 200 rpm sooner at the same speeds as now....whatever.

[fatboybern]

yup exactly my point i am at 3300 @ 120kph in 5th and 2800 in 6th at 120 and 120 is my preferred speed at 2800 rpm my engine sounds like chit and lugs at 3300 she is ok but just a little fast but with the new gearing i will hit my 3000 @120 in 6th wich is perfect engine is quite yet gets good throttle response and reasonable milage sounds great to me other wise it is unusable in 5th i keep shifting up if i ride her in 6th i keep finding myself at 135 140 kph i ride to keep my motor happy not to follow the law

[Half_Crazy]

at 2800 rpm my engine sounds like chit and lugs

If my cruiser/bagger/tourer motorcycle with a large displacement V-twin engine on it wouldn't pull 6th gear comfortably at 2800 rpm... I would have to ask myself if the gearing was really too tall or if the motor just lacked balls? Screw the pulley, give me another 20 ft-lbs of torque across the board.

[North Star]

I decided to go with the 31T.

Reasons are:

- It seems those who are happy with it seem to qualify it with a "great for my style of riding", or " I don't do much interstate", which infers it would be revving to high at 75-85 mph for my liking. Or, the happy ones are the 07-08 owners who ended up with a 2.97 ratio, which is what I'll be at with the 31T on my 09. Steve at Fullsac made the switch from the 31 to the 30 to help his power when "running heavy 2 up going up hills with a 30-40 mph headwind", which is something I don't encounter on a regular basis.

- I don't have much of an issue with the rpm in sixth, and not being in the sweet spot- my issue is more with take off in first gear since first is too tall- I think the 31T should help.

- A guy on another forum with a 2010 RG did the 30T and now wants to switch out to a 31T because he thinks it's revving too high in 6th.

And like I said, the pulley swap isn't really costing any labor since the primary reason of wanting to do this is to upgrade the SE compensator anyhow. Any other improvement is gravy.

I'll post my honest review once I make the switch. Thanks to everyone for their advice.

[North Star]

One other thing- since the stock speedo is about 5% optimistic, once somebody does the gear change AND does the speedo correction with the TTS, it would really give an illusion that the rpm's went up drastically, when in reality they only went up a bit. Although it is an illusion, it does become a reality because it will show higher rpms at a set speed with just the speedo correction alone, so an even further rpm raise by changing the gear will be that much more noticable.

[fatboybern]

totaly agree with the fellow on the cant pull 120 in 6th at 2800 must not have enough balls statement but everyone seems to no how noisy the 110 is and i am happy with the power even at 2800 its just really really noisy and being a tech myself it is either gonna have to be a cam swap to bring my torque down lower or just leave it alone and ride her at 3000 were she is dead quite and perfectly happy you wouldnt think 200 rpm would do that but it does the bike pulls hard after 3000 but not so great anything below i dunno maybe a cam swap would be something to consider i also have a friend with a road glide and he has the 103 he has had harleys for many years he is old enough to be my dad and he went to the 30 tooth on his and loves it it is just that perfect rpm at my speed and that to me is what you should set your gearing to the speed you ride at most on the highway and then get your rpm set to were it runs best and on mine thats 3grand right on the money i am looking at my parts right now and cant wait to put em in i will let you all no