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[RayG]

I'm only interested in a solution period.  My opinion FWIW is limited but when having the Gates & Falcon checked from specialist in my area I'm 100% convinced that the Gates is a better quality belt. How much better is required to do the job I don't know.   As mentioned like others I had my Falcon fail with less than 3000 easy miles, I was not doing burnout etc.  In other words I was not asking my belt to do anything special.  Why not work on a solution?  I would think that a wider belt with a rear sprocket would do wonders as some push the performance envelope.  Yeah there are many areas to improve on our bikes but since changing the belts is such a major PITA, and can quickly ruin a trip I for one prefer not to do it again unless I'm planning to replace it due to normal wear.  Has anyone looked at www.Supermax.net for additional information.  This can't be as complicated as this thread has made it out to be.  Find the best quality belt, keep the proper tension, check for physical damage and if possible locate a system that will allow us to mount a slightly wider rear sprocket & belt for insurance.  If parts are readably available this could be a real simple fix for those who are interested.  We can certainly move this topic in a more positive solution mode, can't we? 

[Fullsac Performance]

If it makes anyone feel better,
I recently returned home from a 3300 mile, 11 day trip to Red Lodge MT. On the way home I did 640 miles the first day, passing north to south through the
entire state of Wyoming on two lane roads in less than 6 hours running 90 MPH+ most of the time. My SPD Falcon 139T belt still looks perfect. I have over 7K on it,
numerous wheelies and burnout, (not the previously mentioned stationary Azzhole kind, rodeo style), no belt issues.

Here is the actual belt being tested before I left.  

Steve

[ruiner73]

Makes me feel a little better...
I did the swap & love it! I also went with the Falcon belt from Drag, then I even went out a bought a spare belt just in case...another falcon...
I hope they hold up as well, if not I guess I'm down for a bit.

[B.A.]

Read every word and took notes!  Not sure I know anything.  

I do know this.  My 2011 FLTRUSE has been in the shop for a week for some warranty issues.  Picked it up today with "most" of the issues fixed.  Dang check engine light will NOT light up upon key on.  Yeah, sports fans, the kill switch is on.  Oh well.

On to my only point related to this thread.  And it will probably be obvious to the more seasoned among you.

During this week I've been riding my '01 FLTRSEI2.  Now the engine is not stock, nor is the clutch.  But it is, most decidedly NOT radical.  What a pure joy it was riding that '01 this week.  So tired of feeling like I'm slipping the clutch on the '11.  Gutless 110 will not hardly move the bike.  After riding the '01 it hit me like a ton of bricks that it's the gear ratios that are the problem.

I mean, the new bike is great.  But I cannot stress enough how much more enjoyable and easy it (the 01) is to ride.  And, I'm including "highway speeds".  I have about 8500 on the new bike. 80,000 on the old one.  Cannot frickin' wait to change to a 30T set up.

I really did learn a lot from this thread.  PROPS TO MANY OF YOU.  THANKS A LOT!!!

[rayson56]

B.A.  you're gonna love it. I have 2 really good friends I ride with. 1 has the same bike as me, the other has an 08 streetglide (non CVO). After I did the 30T on mine I had our friend with the 08, ride the 32T (stock) SESG, then ride mine right after. He agreed the difference was night and day. My buddy with the other SESG will be making the upgrade as well when he gets back to work. Good luck keeping the front end down after the upgrade. LOL

[moscooter]

 
BA.......Prior to getting my '09 SE Ultra 110,  my last bike was an '01 RK Classic with the 95 kit and some other goodies.   I loved the final 3.37 gearing ratio and quickly noticed the gearing diff. on the new scoot.

The 30T swap out helps quite a bit to get the 900+ pig moving off the line..........Go for it.

[B.A.]

THANKS. 

I've got to do this!

[B.A.]

If this is in the thread, I missed it.

Anyone consider a pulley from Baker Drivetrains?  30BD-56, for example.

It'a  billet aluminum.  61% lighter.  Very minor in terms of performance, I'm sure.  But, why not?

Maybe y'all will tell me.

Comments?

[ultrafxr]

Got my '07 cuse2 back Tuesday with the 30-tooth sprocket and SE compensator upgrades.  Those of you with later models who think your bike is geared a little tall, well if you never rode an '07 (and possibly an '08, unsure about those) you would be surprised just how tall they are especially for first gear take off.

This sprocket change makes a nice difference.  I was chewing on whether to do a 30-t or a 31-t but sure glad I went with the 30-t.  It is about a 6% improvement and makes the bike much more driveable.  Taking a turn on city street in second is now no problem whereas before if traffic did not permit sufficient speed then I would have to slow down enough to take it in first gear - real pia for sure.  Much better now.  

[Black Diamond]

Got my '07 cuse2 back Tuesday with the 30-tooth sprocket and SE compensator upgrades.  Those of you with later models who think your bike is geared a little tall, well if you never rode an '07 (and possibly an '08, unsure about those) you would be surprised just how tall they are especially for first gear take off.

This sprocket change makes a nice difference.  I was chewing on whether to do a 30-t or a 31-t but sure glad I went with the 30-t.  It is about a 6% improvement and makes the bike much more driveable.  Taking a turn on city street in second is now no problem whereas before if traffic did not permit sufficient speed then I would have to slow down enough to take it in first gear - real pia for sure.  Much better now.  

The 08's were just as bad. Glad I made the change on the SERK4. Hasn't been as much of an issue with the 11 SESG. Gearing is better.

JW

[timtoolman]

I would'nt go with the aluminum one for daily street driving, Those are mostly for racing as per baker .

[ultrafxr]

I would'nt go with the aluminum one for daily street driving, Those are mostly for racing as per baker .

I used the 30-t from the moco that they put on the trike.  Less expensive than the aftermarket ones and while I saw the aluminum version I did not think it would be of benefit.

[JR]

Congrats on the 30t Jerry! I was thinking about doing this with mine but after reading this thread I'm not sure with the belt issues that some have had. Did you use your stock belt? I always thought 1st gear on mine was too tall especially 2 up.

[ultrafxr]

Congrats on the 30t Jerry! I was thinking about doing this with mine but after reading this thread I'm not sure with the belt issues that some have had. Did you use your stock belt? I always thought 1st gear on mine was too tall especially 2 up.

No, JR, had to change the belt from 137-tooth to 136-tooth.  Used a Harley belt p/n 40371-07.  But help me out here.  You bike is an '05 model, correct?  Any don't you still have the oem 5-speed tranny?  If so you are already where I am getting to by changing my drive sprocket.

If your tranny and drive train is still stock then I don't think you would want to lower yours any.  It would be way too busy in fifth gear at highway speed.

[JR]

Thanks Jerry!

If I keep my Nana I was thinking about going with the 6 speed. I noticed when it's just me riding, taking off isn't that bad. But if I'm 2 up or loaded down it seems like I'm slipping the clutch taking off. Especially when it's hot outside. Last service they checked clutch and said it was OK. He went ahead and changed oil in it and bleed it out. It's a little better, but just thought this might help it out.