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[grc]

Thanks Jerry for the reply.   I have 59,000 miles and no problems or leaks whatsoever and the bike rides really well.   Never a thump or anything,, Thats why I have never done that service. Think I should have it done anyway?

Yes, I would.  While I think doing so at 20k is overkill, at 50k plus it would definitely be a good idea. 


Jerry

[Supershooter]

Jerry,
After tearing the my ultra apart, I removed the ignition switch and the next step said that I needed the Ignition Switch Connector Remover and Aliment housing tool. So I stopped put the fairing back together and took it to the dealer to put in my Monotubes. I hope that I didn't indavertly bail out a job that I could have finished.
Supershooter

[rheiner]

Jerry,
After tearing the my ultra apart, I removed the ignition switch and the next step said that I needed the Ignition Switch Connector Remover and Aliment housing tool. So I stopped put the fairing back together and took it to the dealer to put in my Monotubes. I hope that I didn't indavertly bail out a job that I could have finished.
Supershooter

You don't need to take the ignition off to take the forks off, just the chrome ignition switch.

[grc]

Jerry,
After tearing the my ultra apart, I removed the ignition switch and the next step said that I needed the Ignition Switch Connector Remover and Aliment housing tool. So I stopped put the fairing back together and took it to the dealer to put in my Monotubes. I hope that I didn't indavertly bail out a job that I could have finished.
Supershooter

I don't know of any reason you should need to remove the actual ignition switch.  What you do need to remove is the ignition switch KNOB if you plan to remove the inner fairing cap and switches, as the cap is sandwiched between the switch and the knob.  If you were actually taking the complete switch and fork lock assembly off of the bike, you might want the tool to help make the job go easier but I don't think it's a necessity.


Jerry

[rheiner]

I don't know of any reason you should need to remove the actual ignition switch.  What you do need to remove is the ignition switch KNOB if you plan to remove the inner fairing cap and switches, as the cap is sandwiched between the switch and the knob.  If you were actually taking the complete switch and fork lock assembly off of the bike, you might want the tool to help make the job go easier but I don't think it's a necessity.


Jerry

As I recall, in order to pull the ignition switch in order to take off the fairing cap, you need to have the ignition in accessory mode. Once you pull the switch it will stay in that mode until you put it back on. As long as you pull the 40 amp breaker you won't have a problem with the accessory switch left on, otherwise you will drain your battery & have certain wires hot, which isn't a good idea. The tool to turn the power off (it replaces the ignition switch) after pulling the switch off is the way to go, that way, you know what position the switch is in & there might be a reason you'd want to power on the bike if you are doing other work at the same time you're doing fork work. Alternatively, after the cap is pulled you can put the switch back on.

[Supershooter]

As I think about it, I seem to remeber that when the ignition knob is removed the front forks are in the locked position. Maybe that isn't an issue when you remove the forks? Too late now, wish I would have visited with you guys before I took it to the dealer. Lesson Learned
Supershooter

[Traxxion Dynamics]

We often see some significant bushing wear at 20k. (depending on how aggressive the rider is) After the teflon wears off the bushings, the forks themselves start to wear, leading to considerable slop. So we recommend a full service at 20-25k. Especially if you have gone to the trouble and expense of installing our AK20s. You can often go  much further without "problems", it really comes down to how tight you want your bike to feel, and how sensitive you are to that sort of thing. The wear on fork tubes that have gone 40k is often so bad that we would recommend replacement.

[cahdbiker]

Larry B, just to clarify my thinking on this you drained out the old oil. Then refilled thru the drain hole with your mighty vac.HOW MANY OUNCES DID YOU PUT BACK IN? I usually measure things like that when I do them for the first time. I am not ready to change fork oil yet although I have done it a couple of times on my 95 Heritage. BTW my bike is an 09SEUC and if and when I change fork oil I will use your method if it will save me from messing with the fairing.( I have the 09 service manuel) I actually saw an article about doing it this way in a book I have had since 1995 called 101 Harley Davidson Performance Projects. It is for evo's, but the first section is on doing a 10K service and that is where it shows how to pump the fork oil back in thru the drain holes. CAHDBIKER

I've changed mine twice on my 09 in 30k miles, takes 1/2 hour tops, if you have a mighty vac. all done from the drain plugs. and yes, use the heavier oil. SE performance 15w

[grc]

I would definitely suggest, if you plan to do the drain and refill, regardless of method you need to measure what comes out of each leg.  If it is very close to what your manual says the fork should hold, you know you got most of the oil out.  If it isn't, then you have a dilemma.  Was the fork underfilled at the factory, have you had a leak, or didn't you get all the old oil out?  I wouldn't just assume the fork was underfilled originally and dump in the full amount called for in the manual, since that could result in an overfill. 


Jerry

[Boatman]

On my 05 SEEG2 before the Traxxion upgrade, I did a simple drain/measure/refill as Jerry stated and got the same amount out of each side.  The fluid was pretty nasty looking at 12,000 miles.

When I drained the same Traxxion forks after 31,000 miles, the fluid still looked like new.   (I did not do the drain/fill on them-sent them to traxxion to be installed in my 10 forks).

FWIW..