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[HARLEYBILL]

Getting the Jalapeno ready for the new season I bled both the front and rear brakes and then the clutch. Brake fluid wasn't too bad, just a little discoloration. Bled the clutch and the flushed out fluid was a dirty grey color. When wiping out the empty reservoir there was a thick coating of grey residue clinging to the inside. The residue kind of looks like the same film that will be on the inside of your primary cover if you remove it and wipe down the inside cover. Kind of a metal grey look.( Obviously the inside of the primary is going to have metal shavings ground up and mixed with the primary fluid.)
Cleaned it out and refilled with the proper DOT4. Clutch has a more firm feel now that it has been flushed and fresh fluid is in there.
I'm not really all that tuned in to the internal workings of this clutch,
but is it normal in 8000 miles to have this type of fluid degradation?
Clutch is never abused or slipped excessively off the line. I do get on the old girl but no burn outs or speed shifts. Clutch is actually babied.
It is my understanding that I can't adjust the clutch myself that is a self adjusting mechanism?
This all could be normal and would appreciate a better understanding of why the dramatic change in the fluid. [smiley=jalapeno.gif]

[Twolanerider]

Getting the Jalapeno ready for the new season I bled both the front and rear brakes and then the clutch. Brake fluid wasn't too bad, just a little discoloration. Bled the clutch and the flushed out fluid was a dirty grey color. When wiping out the empty reservoir there was a thick coating of grey residue clinging to the inside. The residue kind of looks like the same film that will be on the inside of your primary cover if you remove it and wipe down the inside cover. Kind of a metal grey look.( Obviously the inside of the primary is going to have metal shavings ground up and mixed with the primary fluid.)
Cleaned it out and refilled with the proper DOT4. Clutch has a more firm feel now that it has been flushed and fresh fluid is in there.
I'm not really all that tuned in to the internal workings of this clutch,
but is it normal in 8000 miles to have this type of fluid degradation?
Clutch is never abused or slipped excessively off the line. I do get on the old girl but no burn outs or speed shifts. Clutch is actually babied.
It is my understanding that I can't adjust the clutch myself that is a self adjusting mechanism?
This all could be normal and would appreciate a better understanding of why the dramatic change in the fluid. [smiley=jalapeno.gif]

HB, not sure what you might be seeing in such a short amount of time.  I flush and bleed the brake fluid on the old cars every other year.  But it's really not necessary nearly that often.  Slipping of the clutch or clutch wear or any other external source wouldn't add any residue to the hydraulic fluid itself.  The hydraulic part of the sytem doesn't "mix" with the mechanical part of the system.  It pushes on it of course.  But it's like virgins at the prom.  They rub up against each other but no mixing of fluids.

[grc]

I bled my clutch 3 times in the month after I bought the bike, to eliminate the dragging condition (clutch grabbed with the lever barely off the grip).

[AllPork]

Bill,
Flushed mine at 10,000 miles and observed the same discoloration (dirty) coupled with a bit of film inside the master cylinder. I refilled the master with the Harley DOT 5 which is Silicon Brake Fluid and not DOT 4. Unless the MOCO changed the spec to DOT 4 for your model, I'd flush it out ASAP and replace it w/DOT 5. There is a definite negative impact on the seals of the brake system if you were to use the wrong fluid. I'm not sure what the ramifications are with the clutch....

BTW, I have a KTM enduro with a hydraulic clutch and flush it once a year. The fluid is always dirty and there's also a slight film in the master too.

[HARLEYBILL]

The CVO for 2005 specifically calls for DOT4. Previous years ,I think,
call for DOT5 which is Silicone based. The DOT4 will absorb moisture but will withstand higher operating temperatures without breakdown of efficiency. You will also get a much harder pedal and lever feel with the DOT4. You have to be careful not to spill the #4 on painted surfaces due to it's caustic nature.
The DOT5 Silicone based fluid will deter moisture and is not harmful to painted surfaces. Used a lot in collector cars and vehicles that are left standing without activity for extended periods of time.
It should be noted that if you attempt to mix #4 & #5 you will have a sludge of a fluid and complete flushing of the entire system is mandatory.
The rule is check the reservoir cover of any Bike and it should plainly indicate the required fluid.
I'm guessing that the 2006 calls for DOT4 as well. If there were a Anti-Lock brake option, this is the fluid that would be necessary to withstand the higher operating temperatures.
Don't mix 'em.