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[Wayne G]

I'll be happy to when it shows up.
I'll be in Daytona for Biketoberfest Thursday through Sunday so I won't see the new frame until I get home.
ALSO, I am going to go by the Kury trailer while I am there and satisfy my curiosity regarding their new frame design. I'll take some pictures.
BTW: I hope the picture isn't of your newest frame backing plate is it?? I thought they fixed the poorly welded lugs awhile ago.
Regards
Jerry

I ordered the frame from Yaffe himself at Bike week this year he gave a discount for orders at bike week.
 
I saw red flags waving when I opened the box and looked at the welds, I grabbed the lug with pliers and twisted rather gently and POP it broke off.  I had both tig welded.  You know that little bubble above your head, I saw them breaking and the frame swinging back and forth on the wires tearing up the fender!!!  Be careful guys those two lugs are the only thing holding the frame on the fender.  I also used plastic washers between the lugs and fender, just couldnt bring myself to crush metal lugs against the paint. (blue loctite on 2 mount bolts)
All said and done it looks great, I get many complements.

[CVOStreetglide]

 

Hey guys:

I ran into a chit STORM with this tag bracket. A hour job has turned into a career.

1. NO bolts and accessories were included.
2. NO instructions.

I called customer service and they were less than helpful. They are checking and will get back to me.

So, thanks to Tyson and the list he provided,  I had some idea of what I needed to do.

However when using the nylon washers I found that it changed the angle of the bolts enough that they wouldn't line up with the bracket lugs after passing through the connector bracket and fender. I have bent the connector bracket and drilled out the holes to help to align it better but no luck yet.

I am going to get some new 1" bolts tomorrow and hopefully I can finally get it mounted.

This thing looks nice but it is a huge disappointment as to the fit and the customer support.

Any ideas you may have are appreciated.

oh yea, the lugs are welded on much better.

[Harley_Charley]

Hey guys:

I ran into a chit STORM with this tag bracket. A hour job has turned into a career.

1. NO bolts and accessories were included.
2. NO instructions.

I called customer service and they were less than helpful. They are checking and will get back to me.

So, thanks to Tyson and the list he provided,  I had some idea of what I needed to do.

However when using the nylon washers I found that it changed the angle of the bolts enough that they wouldn't line up with the bracket lugs after passing through the connector bracket and fender. I have bent the connector bracket and drilled out the holes to help to align it better but no luck yet.

I am going to get some new 1" bolts tomorrow and hopefully I can finally get it mounted.

This thing looks nice but it is a huge disappointment as to the fit and the customer support.

Any ideas you may have are appreciated.

oh yea, the lugs are welded on much better.

Got mine also and you will not believe this, it was repaired with JB Weld!  Strike 1  I soon realized that the 6mm bolt would not pass through the the 1/4-20 opening and would require drilling.   Strike 2   NOT GOING TO DO IT!  Already went through this with the Kury.  Anyway , going to fabricate some 6mm to 10-32 studs to mount.  Will continue later
Charley

[CVOStreetglide]

Got mine also and you will not believe this, it was repaired with JB Weld!  Strike 1  I soon realized that the 6mm bolt would not pass through the the 1/4-20 opening and would require drilling.   Strike 2   NOT GOING TO DO IT!  Already went through this with the Kury.  Anyway , going to fabricate some 6mm to 10-32 studs to mount.  Will continue later
Charley

Charley:

It's good to know I'm not alone dealing with the installation issues for this product. The tolerances are just too tight for a "no drill/quick install" product.

1.  As Tyson said, use  (2) 6mm x 10mm x 1" bolts with locking and flat washers AND drill out the connector backing plate to allow slop when the bolts pass through it so they will align with the lugs on the backing plate again. Remember that the backing plate is curved so aligning the bolts must consider this or cross threading may occur.

IF you decide to remove the threaded lugs on the connector backing plate be sure to use a shorter bolt so it doesn't come through your tag.

2. Be sure to "dry fit"/install the backing plate only on the bike to be sure there are no issues with lug alignment to the fender or the connector assembly or with bolt length.

3. Once dry fitting is complete, BE ABSOLUTELY SURE that the now correctly aligned and fitted backing plate is not adjusted to fit the chrome frame. IF necessary the chrome frame will have to be gently formed to fit the backing plate so the small screws will install properly with your tag inside.


AN ALTERNATIVE DESIGN

I am thinking about running two bolts through the backing plate and lugs from the tag side, then installing some self locking jam nuts and slipping a nylon washer on the studs before they pass through the fender. Then either install a flat washers and locking nuts on these studs with or without the drilled connector backing plate.

Once dry fitting this configuration is complete, then deinstall the backing plate and install the chrome frame on the assembly and reinstalll the whole assembly on the bike.

FWIW: I'm using stainless bolts and nuts.


After

[North Georgia Hawg]

AN ALTERNATIVE DESIGN

I am thinking about running two bolts through the backing plate and lugs from the tag side, then installing some self locking jam nuts and slipping a nylon washer on the studs before they pass through the fender. Then either install a flat washers and locking nuts on these studs with or without the drilled connector backing plate.

Once dry fitting this configuration is complete, then deinstall the backing plate and install the chrome frame on the assembly and reinstalll the whole assembly on the bike.

FWIW: I'm using stainless bolts and nuts.

Here's my Alternative Design (MUCH better than Yaffe's...):

I got the wrong Stealth kit as well... the SLP3 instead of the USLP3 that is designed for the CVOs. I decided to make it work instead of having to return and reorder. 

Here's what I did, in case anyone is interested...

• I purchased two #7499 flange nuts from the H-D dealer for about a buck each. They have nice wide flanges on them. BTW, they are the same flanged nut that holds on the little black plastic wiring cover inside of the rear fender.
• I removed the original backing plate with the threaded inserts from the inside of the rear rear fender.
• I removed the useless (for me) angled fitting that came in the top hole of the Yaffe backing plate with a Dremel tool using a small cutting wheel, and then drilled out the hole to 1/2" and smoothed it with a fine file, and put a rubber grommet in it.
• I positioned the Yaffe backing plate straight on the fender, aligning the new 1/2" hole at the top with the big hole in the fender.
• I marked the two holes from the inside of the fender onto the backing plate, using a short Sharpie.
• I drilled a 7/16" hole in the backing plate at each of these two marks.
• I filed out these holes into a hexagonal shape into which the 7499 nuts would fit - with the nuts in the hexagonal holes, and the flange on the outside. The hexagonal shape of the holes keep the nuts from turning in the holes.
• I put the nuts into these holes from the outside (plate) side of the backing plate, so they would be drawn tightly into the holes when the bolts were tightened from inside the fender, and did a test fit to make sure the bolts would go into the nuts.
  NOTE: My holes were just a tiny bit off, so I had to file the holes in the fender sideways just a tiny bit with a rattail file, to enlarge them slightly and enable the bolts to align with the nuts without any binding. Using a small brush, I painted some gray primer into the holes to prevent any rusting and let it dry.
• I assembled the Yaffe unit, with the nuts in place in the backing plate - hanging down into the hexagonal holes from the outside with the flanges on the plate side, and the license plate over them. The thickness of the nut flanges under the license plate is insignificant and causes no issues. I then attached the foam piece onto the backside of the unit in the proper place.
• I cut the two-wire connector from the original H-D light, and soldered the two wires to the blue and white wires coming out of the LED unit in the new plate frame. I covered them with heat-shrink tubing, and then covered both of them together in a piece of black plastic wire wrap.
• I mounted the Yaffe assembly on the fender, ran the wire through the top hole, and ran the bolts into the nuts and tightened them. Perfect fit!
• I connected the wire connector inside the fender, and zip tied it to the big fender bracket to hold it in place.
  NOTE: I couldn't remount the little plastic cover inside the fender, because you have to remove the original backing plate, and this backing plate contains the bolt onto which you secure the plastic cover. I will remedy this in the future by drilling out the threaded inserts in the original backing plate so the bolts can go through them. It would be nice to have this cover on, to protect the wiring connector from all manner of road grime.

This method does not depend on weld integrity of the nuts to the backing plate - because there ARE no welds! Because the flange on the nuts is on the OUTSIDE of the backing plate between the backing plate and the license plate, the nuts get tighter against the backing plate the tighter the bolts coming from the inside of the fender are tightened - instead of being pulled away from the plate and only being held on by the failure-prone welds.

This is a MUCH better method of securing the Yaffe license plate to the fender than the version with the welded-on nuts that are apparently failing for so many people. It can't fail... and the plate will never fall off.

Yaffe should have designed the mounting mechanism like this... then no one would be having these weld failure issues. ARE YA LISTENIN', PAUL???

BTW: Anyone with a USLP3 can use this method simply by cutting the welded-on nuts off of the backing plate with a Dremel tool and a cutting wheel, or with any small cutting tool...

Hope this helps you folks who are having issues with the Yaffe Stealth III...

 

[CVOStreetglide]

GOOD WRITEUP!!

FWIW: Eliminating the Bungs--You can also avoid the bung issues with the Stealth 3 by buying longer 1 1/4" 6mm flange bolts and threading them through the backing plate and through the bungs from the plate side to the inside of the fender.

Regards

Jerry

[mikegiotto]

Just got done installing the Yaffe plate holder it looks great! Be prepared to have to modify the holder the nuts welded to the back of the plate holder were at least 1/4 wider than the stock bracket after 30 minutes of cussing I finally figured this out. I had to drill a much larger hole in the fender and the bracket under the fender to allow for the adjustment. As longer as you are handy and not afraid to drill the fender it is well worth it.

[mjb765]

Just got done installing the Yaffe plate holder it looks great! Be prepared to have to modify the holder the nuts welded to the back of the plate holder were at least 1/4 wider than the stock bracket after 30 minutes of cussing I finally figured this out. I had to drill a much larger hole in the fender and the bracket under the fender to allow for the adjustment. As longer as you are handy and not afraid to drill the fender it is well worth it.

Strange....I guess quality control over at Yaffe is lacking. I didn't kave to drill the fender at all when I installed mine.

[Montanakid]

Very clever of you to get "Mikey" to try it first"...  

Be sure;

1. The bike is absolutely level.
2. You have the bracket centered.
3. You have a block of wood between the tire and the fender before drilling.

Just saying........

I like # 3.

[Montanakid]

.

So Fireguy is that a Kury fame and the harley bag some moulding?
Thanx

[Cvostu]

I saw one at the dealer recently made by harley...  i dont have the part number.  I was wondering if anyone has tried that one yet.   I really dont feel like drilling into that fender either.

[backroad Mike]

Be careful on the one from any HD Dealer.  All the ones I've looked at usually have been writing added by the dealer that says...

Does not fit FLHXSE2,3...

[Cvostu]

Looking in the p/a catalogue.  Part #67900008   Curved liscence plate frame.  Looks pretty nice.  It says it fits 2010 and later flhx.  Says nothing about cvo.  Any thoughts on that one ?   Page 664.

[Cvostu]

Mike.   Did you put one one yet?

[15CVOSG]

Looking in the p/a catalogue.  Part #67900008   Curved liscence plate frame.  Looks pretty nice.  It says it fits 2010 and later flhx.  Says nothing about cvo.  Any thoughts on that one ?   Page 664.

that part for the FLHX will not work on CVO's...