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[JohnnyRock]

dwille I don't have a spare "manual" but I just read all the paperwork that I got with my Condor. It does not say anything about what to do if a bike is stuck,other than if you have a problem setting up or using the Condor contact @ 1-800-461-1344 or email www.condor-lift.com. It DOES stress having the "cradle installed correctly. "Be sure to place the cradle with the extended NUB that is located only on one end of the cradle facing away from the unit." It also says several times to use the "optimum setting for your specific tire." So is your cradle installed correctly? Is it set for your tire? Hope this helps.

Pretty sure the manual is on their website in a downloadable pdf file...

[1BADHAWG]

i also have a problem getting my bike out of the HF chock...my remedy  is park so trailer is on slight incline then it comes out fine....but i might add that like a lot of other posters have said we should all invest in a quality chock.. i have used my HF probably 10 times with my old Electra Glide and never had a problem and then last Friday i loaded up my RGU CVO and took to dealer for 1K service and dyno tune(i was raining and cold)...anyway when i loaded the bike at dealer to come home it seemed to be locked i got off and the bike and it tilted to the right the bottom of fender hit the rocker part of chock. ...popped off a quarter size piece of paint and put a small dent in it...so now i have to spend 950 for a new fender minus my 250 deductible....i quess i was trying to work with what i had instead of stepping up and buying a quality chock...i am leaning towards a Wheel Dock by the way ... i tell you that was a expensive trip to the dealer.. i had just orderd a Arnott air ride for it then had to go back inside and order the fender.... and now another 200 for the chock...

[Screamin]

i also have a problem getting my bike out of the HF chock...my remedy  is park so trailer is on slight incline then it comes out fine....but i might add that like a lot of other posters have said we should all invest in a quality chock.. i have used my HF probably 10 times with my old Electra Glide and never had a problem and then last Friday i loaded up my RGU CVO and took to dealer for 1K service and dyno tune(i was raining and cold)...anyway when i loaded the bike at dealer to come home it seemed to be locked i got off and the bike and it tilted to the right the bottom of fender hit the rocker part of chock. ...popped off a quarter size piece of paint and put a small dent in it...so now i have to spend 950 for a new fender minus my 250 deductible....i quess i was trying to work with what i had instead of stepping up and buying a quality chock...i am leaning towards a Wheel Dock by the way ... i tell you that was a expensive trip to the dealer.. i had just orderd a Arnott air ride for it then had to go back inside and order the fender.... and now another 200 for the chock...

I crunched mine a couple of years ago in a cheap chock that came w/ the trailer. Lesson learned. I was able to the fender straightened and painted for half the cost of new.

[dwille1498]

dwille I don't have a spare "manual" but I just read all the paperwork that I got with my Condor. It does not say anything about what to do if a bike is stuck,other than if you have a problem setting up or using the Condor contact @ 1-800-461-1344 or email www.condor-lift.com. It DOES stress having the "cradle installed correctly. "Be sure to place the cradle with the extended NUB that is located only on one end of the cradle facing away from the unit." It also says several times to use the "optimum setting for your specific tire." So is your cradle installed correctly? Is it set for your tire? Hope this helps.

Thanks 1sharprdkg I found both a maual and supplemental cradel doc there attached below if others are interested.

http://store.condor-lift.com/docs/supplemental_manual.pdf

http://store.condor-lift.com/docs/pitstop_manual.pdf

[Larry]

I've learned that when you pull the bike back , the tendency is that you pull up at the same time your trying to pull back. That takes the weight off the chock and makes things worse. Remember to just pull straight back. Works for me..   Larry   

P.S. Nothing but condors for me.

[Dan_Lockwood]

Somewhat related to the wheel chock issue, what do you guys do for tie downs?  On touring models, do you strap to the frame, engine guard?

I have an '09 SERG and this is very tight getting straps around the frame above the engine guard.  It would be very easy to just strap around the fairing brackets at the engine guard, but I've read in the manual that the bolts in the engine guards are "break away" bolts.  When I look closely at the one and only upper engine guard bolt, the nylock nut is not fully engaged with the bolt threads.

I guess I'm wondering if the engine guard is strong enough to strap a bike down to.

I've been thinking of designing a setup that might just go in between the frame down tubes.  You would stick the bracket into the tubes and the upper "hook" fingers would be in front of the tubes and the lower "hook" fingers would be on the back or motor side of the down tubes.  Once in place and pressure is applied to the bracket, it would lock into place based on the design of hooking fingers.  Also the hooking fingers would be dipped in a plastic coating to be a no scratch bracket.

Anyway, what do most of you guys do to tie down to on the front end?

Thanks and I didn't mean to hijack the thread.

[Screamin]

I use a plethora of tie downs and soft ties on both the SERG3 and SEEG2. Front forks, crash bar @ the added on foot pegs (forward and aft), passenger floor board mounts, rear crash bar, loop one around the rear tire and leave it in first gear in the chock.

[sadunbar]

Somewhat related to the wheel chock issue, what do you guys do for tie downs?  On touring models, do you strap to the frame, engine guard?

I have an '09 SERG and this is very tight getting straps around the frame above the engine guard.  It would be very easy to just strap around the fairing brackets at the engine guard, but I've read in the manual that the bolts in the engine guards are "break away" bolts.  When I look closely at the one and only upper engine guard bolt, the nylock nut is not fully engaged with the bolt threads.

I guess I'm wondering if the engine guard is strong enough to strap a bike down to.

I've been thinking of designing a setup that might just go in between the frame down tubes.  You would stick the bracket into the tubes and the upper "hook" fingers would be in front of the tubes and the lower "hook" fingers would be on the back or motor side of the down tubes.  Once in place and pressure is applied to the bracket, it would lock into place based on the design of hooking fingers.  Also the hooking fingers would be dipped in a plastic coating to be a no scratch bracket.

Anyway, what do most of you guys do to tie down to on the front end?

Thanks and I didn't mean to hijack the thread.

I use a wheel chock, plus tie downs to the frame up front.  I secure the rear with tie downs to the rear crash bars.