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[catahoula58]

I recently had my SE Compensator replaced along with the Chain Tensior at the harley dealer after my 1000K oil change.  Drained all Syn 3 fluids and went with Redline Primary Oil!   Chain Tensioner had a weak spring, New one has stiffer spring.  After all was done there was a loud clacking noise coming from primary area.  Talked to service manager and Mechanic and Tech Services and was told that this was normal.  Called Jim ( HD-Dude) and was told that the issue was probaly either a crushed or cracked or broken thrush washer.

Went back to Harley and made them replace the washer and torqued to 140ft lbs.  did not have any more Redline fluid so added 1.6 qts of syn 3.  Noise is gone! 

Wanting to drain out Syn 3 and use Redline Primary oil as before the shifter was quiet with the redline and is noisey with the Syn 3. 

Any one else have a problem with R/R the SE compensator or Chain Tensioner or Redline Primary oil?

Thank for your feedback!

[Rooster]

Sorry for your problems. I hear if you use an air wrench to crank down the comp it can damage the friction washer. Should be done with a manual torque wrench.

[grc]

I recently had my SE Compensator replaced along with the Chain Tensior at the harley dealer after my 1000K oil change.  Drained all Syn 3 fluids and went with Redline Primary Oil!   Chain Tensioner had a weak spring, New one has stiffer spring.  After all was done there was a loud clacking noise coming from primary area.  Talked to service manager and Mechanic and Tech Services and was told that this was normal.  Called Jim ( HD-Dude) and was told that the issue was probaly either a crushed or cracked or broken thrush washer.

Went back to Harley and made them replace the washer and torqued to 140ft lbs.  did not have any more Redline fluid so added 1.6 qts of syn 3.  Noise is gone! 

Wanting to drain out Syn 3 and use Redline Primary oil as before the shifter was quiet with the redline and is noisey with the Syn 3. 

Any one else have a problem with R/R the SE compensator or Chain Tensioner or Redline Primary oil?

Thank for your feedback!

There have been documented cases where so-called techs using impact wrenches have damaged the thrust washers and created the problem you described.  It's a bad habit that all too many so-called techs in the auto and motorcycle fields have picked up over the years.  Impact wrenches should only be used for disassembly and never for assembly.  In fact, in the auto assembly plant I used to work for, we had all the impact wrenches (used in repair bays) set up to only work in reverse so folks couldn't get lazy and do it the wrong way.

Your choice of primary oil won't cause the problem you experienced.  I personally would not use SYN3 in the primary or trans, but to each his own.  The Redline product (MTL or V-Twin Primary Oil, both the same thing) has been working just fine for an awful lot of folks for many years.  Other products that would be a better choice than SYN3 include the Harley Formula +, and my personal favorite is automatic transmission fluid (ATF).  I'm sure there are many other good choices as well.


Jerry

[rheiner]

There have been documented cases where so-called techs using impact wrenches have damaged the thrust washers and created the problem you described.  It's a bad habit that all too many so-called techs in the auto and motorcycle fields have picked up over the years.  Impact wrenches should only be used for disassembly and never for assembly.  In fact, in the auto assembly plant I used to work for, we had all the impact wrenches (used in repair bays) set up to only work in reverse so folks couldn't get lazy and do it the wrong way.

Your choice of primary oil won't cause the problem you experienced.  I personally would not use SYN3 in the primary or trans, but to each his own.  The Redline product (MTL or V-Twin Primary Oil, both the same thing) has been working just fine for an awful lot of folks for many years.  Other products that would be a better choice than SYN3 include the Harley Formula +, and my personal favorite is automatic transmission fluid (ATF).  I'm sure there are many other good choices as well.

I know BDL high performance clutches recommend ATF (and they say no synthetic, and Redline is synthetic but I use it), but what about ATF for wear on the chains, sprockets, & tensioner?

Jerry

[grc]

I know BDL high performance clutches recommend ATF (and they say no synthetic, and Redline is synthetic but I use it), but what about ATF for wear on the chains, sprockets, & tensioner?

All I can tell you is that an automotive transmission and/or transaxle and/or transfer case that uses ATF has plenty of gears and bearings and bushings and even chains, and the ATF lubricates them all.  And it is specially formulated for the wet clutches in all such transmissions.  Last time I checked, the typical automatic trans runs for a lot of miles under much tougher conditions than a Harley primary drive.


Jerry

[rheiner]

All I can tell you is that an automotive transmission and/or transaxle and/or transfer case that uses ATF has plenty of gears and bearings and bushings and even chains, and the ATF lubricates them all.  And it is specially formulated for the wet clutches in all such transmissions.  Last time I checked, the typical automatic trans runs for a lot of miles under much tougher conditions than a Harley primary drive.


Jerry

What kind do you use? Type F?

[Twolanerider]

What kind do you use? Type F?

I use ATF in the primary also.  Have had an engineer for Barnett say specifically their best ATF recommendation is just plain old Type F fluid.  He then went on to say that if you want to step it up a notch their "most preferred" ATF was the old B&M Trick Shift.  Primary housing/clutch isn't hard work for any good ATF.

[gordy]

Caterpillar makes a "drive oil" that we used in the planetary drive transmissions and diffs, it had a classification of T04. I always wondered how this would work and since you guys are running type F, I think I will try some T04 in mine.  Will let you know how it works.

[HDDOCFL]

I will agree with the use of ATF and Redlines products in the pre 07 touring bikes, but I have had no luck with such products in 07 later bikes. Always noisy and signs of fretting in the comps. I will only use HD Formula+ in the primary. Much better in this application.  Doc

[LC110]

Harley Davidson FORMULA+ Trans and Primary Chaincase Virgin Oil Analysis
It is Petroleum based.

Ca 169
P 230
B 210
S - some
Zn - essentially none
No other elemental additives.
Vis. within SAE 50 range.
Listed as a GL-1, does test out as a GL-3.

Nothing wrong with the oil for chain case or transmission use. It is a little thick to use in cooler climate areas. (IMO)
I am sure at a 50 weight it will keep the noise down.

[HDDOCFL]

I have a bottle of formula+ that says it is mineral base on the bottle. ?   Doc

[grc]

With an actual viscosity of approximately 20 cSt @ 100°C, it falls within the SAE 50 range for motor oil, and the 90 weight range for gear oil.  Since it is a gear oil, not a motor oil, it would be best to stick to the gear oil rating in any discussions.  And 90 weight is normal for a Harley trans (75W90, actually).  It also works OK in the primary, but then the primary has the easiest lubrication requirements so a lot of different lubes will work as long as they are formulated to work well with wet clutches.  I've compared Formula + and ATF in my bike, and found the ATF to be superior in terms of clutch operation.  Your results may vary.


Jerry

[bigjohn]

I use ATF in the primary also.  Have had an engineer for Barnett say specifically their best ATF recommendation is just plain old Type F fluid.  He then went on to say that if you want to step it up a notch their "most preferred" ATF was the old B&M Trick Shift.  Primary housing/clutch isn't hard work for any good ATF.

Barnett told me the same thing. I switched up for a little to see if mattered. It was quiet but what I noticed it made my clutch feel like a two stage. It would grab then a sec or so grab again. Thought it was slippage but when it was on the dyno it never showed any. I knew another guy had the same problem but then other people have had no problems. Either way I went back to redline until I learn what was causing it. I would rather run B&M for the plates but I guess I will wait for the outcome.

[LC110]

I have a bottle of formula+ that says it is mineral base on the bottle. ?   Doc

Sorry, I tend to use the term petroleum based. Others use the term mineral based.
It's Oil made by CITGO. It works. I think it is to thick to use in the primary (IMO)

For Reference:
Group 1 - Conventional - Mineral oil derived from crude oil
Group 2 - Hydroprocessed - Highly refined mineral oil
Group 3 – Severe hydroprocessed - Ultra refined mineral oil
Group 4 – Full synthetics (chemically derived) - Chemically built Polyalphaolefins (PAO).
Group 5 - Based synthetics are usually not compatible with petroleum or petroleum fuels.
Groups 1 – 3 basestocks are derived from crude oil pumped from the ground whereas Group 4 basestocks are chemically derived, most often from ethylene gas, and contain none of the contaminants present in mineral oils.
Remember that Group III base stocks are considered synthetic motor oil only in the United States;any where else in the world they are not allowed to be marketed as "synthetic".