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[Cowboy2]

No more Granny Glide digs here...   

A Dresser just got the 120R motor in and all Test Riders were VERY impressed.  To my way of thinking, that motor swap is far cheaper than some of the extreme motor build ups to get the 125 HP range and up.  For what I have seen some people spend, they could have a spare motor on the floor and the 120R installed, and that seems to me to be a far better move, unless of course you cannot do that and be legal in the U.S.  The general report was far smoother and responsive than what they anticipated.

Here in Australia, no body seems to know the bit from HD "not for road use, track only"

It is coming in for a 1000 km Service, and at that time it will be Dyno run with a chart.  I will go see the chart and listen to it run, and talk more with the Test Drivers for a report... 

Cowboy

[yellowcvo]

 

[GregKhougaz]

   There is no substitute for cubic inches.   

[Cowboy2]

I would still like to do it myself, I just don't know which bike yet....  I have the Orange and Black original Harley Colours CVO Street Glide since last year, hot rodded with some goodies...  And in July coming, the 11.5 BIG BLUE FLHTCUSE6 Dresser coming.  If I keep both,  then maybe the SESG gets the 120R....  If I make the transition to the big full Dresser, for the auto locking top box and all the rest, then it is a consideration for it after I sell the SESG  $E$G.

The point is you can hardly lose.  You have a low kms motor chromed up sitting in a motor mount somewhere cool looking.  And if you sell the scooter you can always switch back and put the 120R in the next scooter style you go to.  It also gives you a second motor if something happens to one. 

I still would recommend anyone attempting an extreme build, Stage 3 SE stuff or bigger, price it up, because at least here in Australia you are going to spend the same money on the build as buying the 120R motor.  At least you have a spare motor AND that motor is worth some $$$$ that makes it worthwhile to buy the 120R instead of a total build.  It is about the same money, only my way you get a low kms spare motor to keep for backup, or just look cool in the living room,  or sell to recoup some or most of the costs....  

Tell me where I am wrong on this .....   Cowboy

[kraut]

lets talk again about this engine after a substantial number of them got into some higher miles 

Just sayin ...

[Rogzy]

Agree with Kraut. I know someone who installed the 120R on his Rocker and seems to be doing ok. However I will wait and see how he feels after 10 or 20K miles.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

I wouldn't see why that engine can't roll out some miles.
It carry's almost 1 full point of compression less, than that 266 cam wants, so in all actuality, it runs in a detuned state.
Scott

[Half_Crazy]

  There is no substitute for cubic inches.   

All the inches in the world ain't worth a frig if the motor won't stay together.

You either spend the money now to make sure the motor will hold up or you spend the money to do it later when it comes apart, but you will spend the money. Might as well pony-up for the high-dollar aftermarket motor and get it over with.   

[Steve Cole]

When looking at what to do with mine I decided to do the 120R as the cost is right. I also decided that I could not leave it alone and hope for the long term knowing what I know about timken bearings and the crankshaft welding, so apart it has come to get the crank plugged and welded and a timken bearing install. Other than that it going right back together the way it is. The ones we've dyno'ed will make 100 ft lbs @ 1650 RPM and depending on pipe combination 130 - 135 peak Hp and torque. So for the $4500 you can pick the motor up for and the adding of $500 more to  do the crank and bearing modification it still the cheapest way to go for a good combination IMHO. While sure you can get more out of it just remember you still get to keep you complete old motor which can be sold if you like.

[North Star]

When looking at what to do with mine I decided to do the 120R as the cost is right. I also decided that I could not leave it alone and hope for the long term knowing what I know about timken bearings and the crankshaft welding, so apart it has come to get the crank plugged and welded and a timken bearing install. Other than that it going right back together the way it is. The ones we've dyno'ed will make 100 ft lbs @ 1650 RPM and depending on pipe combination 130 - 135 peak Hp and torque. So for the $4500 you can pick the motor up for and the adding of $500 more to  do the crank and bearing modification it still the cheapest way to go for a good combination IMHO. While sure you can get more out of it just remember you still get to keep you complete old motor which can be sold if you like.

Hey Steve, I see you chime in on all the technical stuff and such, but never see you talk about your bikes- what do you ride?

[rheiner]

I put a 120R in my 2011 CVO SG and have about 1000 miles on it so far. I love it. I haven't dyno tuned it so I don't know numbers but it blows my 110 away. Many thanks to Scott (Sadunbar) for answering all my questions about the build as I did, and so promptly. He is great. Also, I use a TTS tuner and got a base calibration map from my local HD dealer that did a 120R on a trike. I could never get it to run good between 1,300-1,800 rpm at 60% or greater throttle, even after many v-tune runs and other input mods I made to the map. So I contacted Steve Cole and he got me a base map that cured 90% of the problem. I then v-tuned it and it runs great. I'm very pleased so far. I'm keeping my 110 engine as a fall back if the 120R doesn't work out over time. I put a 10 row Jagg oil cooler on it and I got about a 20 to 25 degree F. drop in oil temp from the stock 6 row oil cooler.

[Steve Cole]

Hey Steve, I see you chime in on all the technical stuff and such, but never see you talk about your bikes- what do you ride?

2011 103 power pack FLTRX now soon to get the 120R when I get sometime to put it in but also have a 2002 Softail and Vrod.

[131fun]

Hi guys, it's me, 131fun... I'm still havin fun. I agree, I recommend buying a new motor and shelving the stock motor for all the reasons mentioned. I've said and done this myself. The only difference is that I did the JIMS 131. It's still running strong with no hint of problems. Some bikers are skeptical about the 120R. I say go for it! There are always gonna be nay sayers. People bad mouth JIMS all the time. I look at them like they are a foreign exchange student or something... I don't know what the hell they are talking about! My bike runs like a SOB...

Like somebody else said in this thread, "there's no replacement for displacement." That's why I went with the most cubes my wallet could handle.

Rock on!

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

The low end power, can be significantly enhanced on the 120R, via install of a Wood 400, or 408.
Slides right under the OE spring, and is basically a plug and play, prior to a good tune.
Scott

[Gecko]

This is one of the routes I considered to remedy the disaster they made of the 110.  But then I remember who puts it together, so why should it be any better?  The 110 was just a bigger version of the 96, which was a bigger version of the 88...  This is a stroked and slightly bored version of the twin cam; why would HD suddenly start making decent engines?  Isn't this the classic case of fool me once?  I don't think I'll ever buy the first or second year edition of anything new they come out with - they let their customers do too much of their reliability testing.