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[HogHvn]

I have had 2 occasions where the rear cylinder has shut off. First time was a quick stop and start(less than 3 or 4 minutes). Today rode about an hour up interstate went to second red light and the rear cylinder shuts down again. Never had an issue ever. I have rode alot longer in higher temps. Am I starting to have issues or am I just paranoid?

[Midnight Rider]

I have had 2 occasions where the rear cylinder has shut off. First time was a quick stop and start(less than 3 or 4 minutes). Today rode about an hour up interstate went to second red light and the rear cylinder shuts down again. Never had an issue ever. I have rode alot longer in higher temps. Am I starting to have issues or am I just paranoid?

First need to know if you've done any mods to the bike like pipes, etc, and if so, did you do something to modify the fuel ratio?

[Keats]

The rear cylinder is not suppose to shut down with heat, it goes in parade mode after idling for a time, if you have it programmed that way.

I am totally unaware of any program to shut down the rear cylinder regardless of AFR. (has that changed?)

[Keats]

These things replicate Japanese nuclear Reactors, no safety devices shut them down till they melt down.................

[mjb765]

The rear cylinder is not suppose to shut down with heat, it goes in parade mode after idling for a time, if you have it programmed that way.

I am totally unaware of any program to shut down the rear cylinder regardless of AFR. (has that changed?)

He did say that the rear cyl was shutting down while sitting at a red light which would be at idle. Sounds like the EITMS is kicking in.

[HogHvn]

The only mods have been Rinehart slipons, race tuner, and dyno tune. Mods were done at time of purchase(9/09). Ran fine all last summer in upper 90 degree temps. The temps now are 70's to mid 80's.

[Midnight Rider]

The only mods have been Rinehart slipons, race tuner, and dyno tune. Mods were done at time of purchase(9/09). Ran fine all last summer in upper 90 degree temps. The temps now are 70's to mid 80's.

I can't explain why it ran fine last year and is not this year, unless the cat is getting more restrictive with age...that cat puts off a trememdous amount of heat.  But, if you get rid of the cat, you'll probably have to retune the bike a bit.  Some pull the stock header off, cut it where the cat is located, remove the cat material, then weld the parts back together.  Others go with something like the Fullsac X pipe (my personal choice).  Also, if you're still running Syn3 oil, it can run a bit higher oil temps than some other brands, like Redline, Amsoil, Mobil 1.  Another guess (and that's all it is... a guess) might be that the O2 sensor for that cylinder is giving a false reading?

[nuckelhead]

I can't explain why it ran fine last year and is not this year, unless the cat is getting more restrictive with age...that cat puts off a trememdous amount of heat.  But, if you get rid of the cat, you'll probably have to retune the bike a bit.  Some pull the stock header off, cut it where the cat is located, remove the cat material, then weld the parts back together.  Others go with something like the Fullsac X pipe (my personal choice).  Also, if you're still running Syn3 oil, it can run a bit higher oil temps than some other brands, like Redline, Amsoil, Mobil 1.  Another guess (and that's all it is... a guess) might be that the O2 sensor for that cylinder is giving a false reading?

i'd be willing to bet that you have unknowingly put the bike into parade mode.  possible while pushing the bike forward while cranked and in neutral.  with the bike in neutral, roll the throttle forward and hold for 3 seconds.  cruise light will flash red if the bike was in parade mode.  if it flashes green, it wasnt, but now is.  does that make sense?