I did a number of repairs and modifications (thanks Jenni) over the winter and when it came time to clear the codes an experienced acquaintance offered to help me out. I had C1027, C1206, C1208, C1034 and a number of motor related ones but they all cleared except the C1034, I don't have a book and it has been raining for two days so my friend has not dropped of his copy of all the codes but I suspect it has to do with the ABS since the light stays on about 95% of the time and the engine light comes on for a few minutes every now & then. I did make a copy of some codes from this site but many were not included.
The following is some of what I did for repairs & modifications over the winter;
Removed front end & sent out forks to Traxxion for rebuilding
Installed new front tire, cleaned Lyndall pads and reinstalled
Installed the 30 Tooth sprocket kit, swingarm looked good, no play at all (True Track was installed with Baker+One oil pan when a year old)
Removed exhaust, replaced gaskets, installed new rear tire & worn IDS isolators, cleaned Lyndall brake pads & reinstalled
Installed the SE compensator, removed primary and inner primary to perform the sprocket change, replaced necessary bearings seals etc. Shift shaft leak fixed
Replaced the clutch hub due to stripped out splines which turned out to be the culprit to a previous problem, see old post "Look at the amount metal on my drain plug"
Replaced handlebars to 513 Wild One Chubbies (lots of wires)
Measure crank run out after removing cam chain (measured @ .0045) not quite 5 thousands at the far end, I expected much worse. Replaced badly worn chain tensioner
Once I fired her up and took her for a short spin I noticed that the cruise control did not work initially but after a few attempts it started working and has worked to this day. The 6 gear indicator light works. The ABS light has been on 95% of the time and I don't think the ABS is working properly if at all (raining last few days) I also noticed that the clutch did not work properly so the fluid was changed and bleed, I have 41,000 miles on her and the clutch plates looked fine so I put them back in, now I realize that I should have just replaced them as everthing else was. I plan on installing the Energy One BTX 4 clutch plates & spring ($166.00) which has 10 friction plates and 9 tempered steel drive plates. I do get a little aggressive every now and then so it wont hurt to have the extra surface area. I'm open to suggestions to the clutch, but I'm not going to drop another $500.00
I would like to locate the problem and fix it myself unless its expensive and the ESP will cover it. By the way 3 Dealerships refused to do the work after I had shown them the same photo I posted on this site with the metal on the plug and made mention to the noise coming from the primary and the noise when slowing down to stop. What it came down to is every dealer thought the amount of metal was absolutely normal and that they would take it apart if I forced the issue but if they found nothing wrong I would be stuck with a huge bill, so each one tried to talk me out of doing anything. Since I had zero confidence with the dealerships and the higher ups if I pushed it and since I was positive something was wrong I figured out by the time I did the extras myself I would still be way ahead if I did it all myself and paid for parts. It's to bad they all act like that but this site has taught me I don't have to play their game.
So any ideas on how & what to look for on C1034?
Thank
Ray G.
Author
Topic: Can't clear code #1034 (Read 4627 times)