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[mjb765]

Went for about a 30 mile ride and everything was fine. On the way home (in some traffic) the clutch started not dis-engaging all the way and there was a lot of free play in the handle. So the first thing that I thought was air in the clutch line since I replaced that line about 200 miles ago. So on the way home I needed to stop for gas. When I restarted the bike everything was normal again for a few minutes and then it started happening again. I went from a hard plastic stock line to a braided line when I switched them. I'm thinking 3 things...air in the line (but why would the problem go away for a little while after I restarted the bike?), fluid overheating (next to the exhaust) since changing the type of line, or last--clutch plates sticking in the primary?? I changed the fluid in the primary about 200 miles ago and have not had any issues until today.

Any ideas

[moscooter]

 
I didn't note in your commentary that you checked the fluid and were sure there was not a leak as a result of your changing the line.  Beyond that,  from what you have said, it is for now a mystery.

[mjb765]

I didn't note in your commentary that you checked the fluid and were sure there was not a leak as a result of your changing the line.  Beyond that,  from what you have said, it is for now a mystery.

Fluid level was fine

[dlaws01]

I have heard of vapor lock in fluid lines which run close to high heat sources such as the exhaust but usually it is with a much less viscous fluid than what is in the clutch reservoir. More like fuel lines. But its a possibility that I would eliminate by shielding or moving the line.

[mjb765]

I have heard of vapor lock in fluid lines which run close to high heat sources such as the exhaust but usually it is with a much less viscous fluid than what is in the clutch reservoir. More like fuel lines. But its a possibility that I would eliminate by shielding or moving the line.

Strange thing is the line is in the exact same place that the stock line was in

Just now it's braided....I may try some heat wrap.

[mjb765]

Went for a ride today and all was fine   Was not stuck in any kind of traffic though. Still gonna put the heat wrap on the clutch line where it is next to the exhaust this week.

[moscooter]

 
Some have used the wrong brake fluid and ended up (mixing) Syn brake fluid with non-syn brake fluid.........Hoping you didn't have that problem.

[grc]

Lot's of possibilities, but air isn't likely to be one of them.  Air in the system doesn't just suddenly appear and just as suddenly disappear.  More likely is something in the actuator or release mechanism (pushrod, pressure plate) that hung up and then released, or possibly too much fluid in the system.  The clutch hydraulics work differently than brakes, in that the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir actually increases as the clutch wears.  If you have too much fluid, and then the high temps cause the fluid to expand further, you may not have enough room in the reservoir to allow the master cylinder to fully release pressure on the actuator.  First thing I'd do is make certain the fluid level is not above the full mark.


Jerry

[Spiderman]

You know, I had hydraulic clutches on bikes for years- - - even before they became a CVO standard item.  Got so I thought they were perfect and problem free - - -uh uh, no free rides in this life baby. S'anyway, I bought LD in 07 and built it up to as close to a CVO as I could get because I was tired of waiting around for the MoCo to build another SERG. Hey 09 came along , but who knew ? Anyway, one thing I did NOT modify on LD was the clutch actuation system. It's ball/ramp/cable and I'm good with it. I keep the cable lubed and every now and then have to adjust the thing but it's no big deal. I did put a SE Clutch plate set up and spring in it. Doesn't pull too hard. Pops into neutral pretty easy at a stop light if I don't wanna hold the lever in. All in all - - - I don't miss the hydraulic clutch at all. 

I'm just sayin you know - - - - - -

B B

[mjb765]

Some have used the wrong brake fluid and ended up (mixing) Syn brake fluid with non-syn brake fluid.........Hoping you didn't have that problem.

Dot 4 Harley fluid just like it says on the master cyl cap.

[moscooter]

 
Jerry.......I'm thinkin' you may never have experienced "boiling" brake fluid and the resultant symptoms..........Very much like (air in the system),

see this write-up regarding the (gas bubbles).

Brake fluid is possibly the single most neglected component of the automobile. Most high performance drivers check their tire pressures and change their engine oil at frequent intervals. Virtually no one (including me) ever changes the brake fluid in their street car - or even bleeds the brakes. WRONG!

The function of brake fluid is to provide an incompressible medium to transmit the driver’s foot pressure on the brake pedal through the master cylinder(s) to the calipers in order to clamp the friction material against the discs. The foot pressure is multiplied by the mechanical pedal ratio and the hydraulic ratio of the master cylinders, booster (if used) and caliper piston(s).

This is a simple concept. When fresh, all brake fluids are virtually incompressible and the system works as well as its mechanical and hydraulic design allows. There are, however significant problems. Overheated brake fluid can (and will) boil in the caliper. Boiling produces gas bubbles within any boiling fluid. Gas is compressible so boiling brake fluid leads to a “soft” brake pedal with long travel. In extreme cases overheated brake fluid necessitates “pumping the brake pedal” in order to get a pedal at all.

[mjb765]

Lot's of possibilities, but air isn't likely to be one of them.  Air in the system doesn't just suddenly appear and just as suddenly disappear.  More likely is something in the actuator or release mechanism (pushrod, pressure plate) that hung up and then released, or possibly too much fluid in the system.  The clutch hydraulics work differently than brakes, in that the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir actually increases as the clutch wears.  If you have too much fluid, and then the high temps cause the fluid to expand further, you may not have enough room in the reservoir to allow the master cylinder to fully release pressure on the actuator.  First thing I'd do is make certain the fluid level is not above the full mark.


Jerry

Fluid level is right up to the full mark in the reservoir...still plenty of room to expand...does my thought of overheating in the line down by the trans sound possible?

[dayne66]

I had a friend that was part of The SoCal Porche club....before being allowed to participate in any 'driving' events ...one of the requirements was that the brake fluid had to be less than 90 (maybe it was only 30) days old.

I flushed mine on all three bikes last year....might do it again this year...just 'cause.

[sadunbar]

Fluid level is right up to the full mark in the reservoir...still plenty of room to expand...does my thought of overheating in the line down by the trans sound possible?

Not likely.  That's the stock location.  If heat was an issue because of this location - thousands would be having an issue.

I'd agree with Jerry's comments about the possibility of the clutch hanging up (pushrod/pressure plate/etc).

[mjb765]

I had a friend that was part of The SoCal Porche club....before being allowed to participate in any 'driving' events ...one of the requirements was that the brake fluid had to be less than 90 (maybe it was only 30) days old.

I flushed mine on all three bikes last year....might do it again this year...just 'cause.

Since I just replaced the line a month ago and had the master cylinder off the bike and used all new fluid when I re-installed everything--that eliminates that idea.......Keep em coming