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[Big C.]

  Just took the bike out for the first good long rip of the year and have some concerns about the oil temp.  Last year after installing TW7-H's, D&D boss 2 into 1 and being tuned the bike would run around 180 to 240 even on the hottest days last summer it never went over 240ish.  Today, after going back into the chest this winter and adding the SE support plate, LMR spring, Woods directional lifters, and a K&N filter it was running 230 to 280?  Would any of these changes affect oil temps?  Could the addition of the K&N over the stock ventilator high flow paper element add that much more air that it's running lean again and needs to be re-tuned.  I'm scratching my head here.  Oh it was 80* today with slight humidity and I was riding solo running 50 to 80 MPH 5th and 6th gear and my average cruising RPM was around 2200 to 2700 and no traffic.

                                                                           Thanks for looking
                                                                                       Cory

[laylonlor]

i was running my 2010 cvo today , with simular mods, it was 83 degrees , and mine was never over 225

[grc]

  Just took the bike out for the first good long rip of the year and have some concerns about the oil temp.  Last year after installing TW7-H's, D&D boss 2 into 1 and being tuned the bike would run around 180 to 240 even on the hottest days last summer it never went over 240ish.  Today, after going back into the chest this winter and adding the SE support plate, LMR spring, Woods directional lifters, and a K&N filter it was running 230 to 280?  Would any of these changes affect oil temps?  Could the addition of the K&N over the stock ventilator high flow paper element add that much more air that it's running lean again and needs to be re-tuned.  I'm scratching my head here.  Oh it was 80* today with slight humidity and I was riding solo running 50 to 80 MPH 5th and 6th gear and my average cruising RPM was around 2200 to 2700 and no traffic.

                                                                           Thanks for looking
                                                                                       Cory

Just a few thoughts off the top of my head:

The LMR relief valve spring (which one?) will cause more oil to flow to the top end and the piston cooling jets.

The Wood lifters, if I remember correctly, also divert more oil to the top end.

The top end and pistons are very hot.  One of the changes Harley made to the original Twin Cam design back in '98 was to reduce the amount of oil going to the heads to keep overall oil temperatures within the target range (230°F is considered normal temp for a Twinky under standard conditions).  So possibly your changes have transferred more heat to the oil. 

I seriously doubt that the K&N element is flowing enough extra air to seriously affect AFR, but a quick check with an exhaust gas analyzer should prove or disprove that theory.

What are you using to check oil temps, the electronic dipstick?  Check it for accuracy if you are.


Jerry

[Big C.]

 Jerry, I installed the Baisley LMR-02 and I'm checking the temps with a sensor in the oil bag to a fairing mount gauge along with the dipstick.  The dipstick does read around 5* higher than the gauge.  Numbers I posted were from the temp gauge.

[Big C.]

  Could the oil cooler's thermostat not be opening?  Has there been any known issues with the 09 110's oil cooler? Is their a test to check the cooler stat, the only thing I could think of is to feel the oil cooler lines and make sure they are getting hot.  I'll check that out tonight just to rule out the simple stuff.
                                              Again thanks for taking the time to read my post
                                                                              Cory

[Big C.]

  Oil lines and cooler are getting hot so that rules that out!

[petewerner]

  Just took the bike out for the first good long rip of the year and have some concerns about the oil temp.  Last year after installing TW7-H's, D&D boss 2 into 1 and being tuned the bike would run around 180 to 240 even on the hottest days last summer it never went over 240ish.  Today, after going back into the chest this winter and adding the SE support plate, LMR spring, Woods directional lifters, and a K&N filter it was running 230 to 280?  Would any of these changes affect oil temps?  Could the addition of the K&N over the stock ventilator high flow paper element add that much more air that it's running lean again and needs to be re-tuned.  I'm scratching my head here.  Oh it was 80* today with slight humidity and I was riding solo running 50 to 80 MPH 5th and 6th gear and my average cruising RPM was around 2200 to 2700 and no traffic.

                                                                           Thanks for looking
                                                                                       Cory

Read your spark plugs!!!

[spydglide]

Read your spark plugs!!!

I was informed that you can't read plugs anymore with these new systems that change & compensate for everything.  spyder

[petewerner]

Lean is lean isn't it? The combustion burn should show or can someone please enlighten with an explanation?

[dartman]

Lean is lean isn't it? The combustion burn should show or can someone please enlighten with an explanation?

on modern unleaded fuel burning engines it is difficult to see any noticeable coloration even on bikes running a rich AFR . Using a magnifying glass or a lighted spark plug viewer offers a more accurate inspection, it used to be white was lean, tan was good, and  sooty was rich not so any more.

[HD Street Performance]

Perform a sumping check. All indications are you have excess crankcase oil not going back to tank.

[Big C.]

  I'm not sure how to do that.  Could anyone be able to describe the procedure for a sump check?  Again it's a 09 110 in a roadglide and the temps don't start climbing over 230 until I've been riding for a good 45 mins. or so.
                                                           Thanks again everyone for all the great input and thought
                                                                                 Cory

[Unbalanced]

Big C,

Take the bike out get it up to temp (good and hot), bring it back in to your shop / garage and let the bike idle for a just a bit then shut it off .. and immediately remove the 2nd drain plug at the bottom of the crank case not the one for draining the tank that you typically use to drain your oil for an oil change.  What you want to do is capture how much oil is in the crank case and measure it.  Then report back whether you have 3 ounces, 4 ounces, etc.

[Big C.]

  Got it good and hot and and ended up with a little over 8oz. that came out of the crank?

[guppytrash]

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