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[grc]

Muddy, it tends to be a crap shoot, with none of the various brands having a perfect record.  I tried two sets of Wood lifters, and both were defective so I got tired of screwing around and just went with the Harley B lifters (stock lifters).  I've spoken with techs who have had issues with Fueling lifters, Jim's lifters, Screamin' Eagle lifters, etc., to the point that I'm starting to think there is either just one lousy company making all these various lifters for these companies, or there is something inherently squirrelly about a Harley engine that causes premature lifter failure.  Whatever is going on, there obviously is no one correct answer.

IMHO, just buy another set of stock lifters.  Paying two to four times the price for big "names" doesn't seem to be a guarantee of better quality.

As for the cost, I think the stockers still run $30 apiece MSRP. 


Jerry

[HD Street Performance]

FYI
The -B are now -C and they are heco in mexico, so add that to the crap game.
Wood lifters are designed by Jesel and manufactured by Morel to the best of my knowlege.

[2018_FLTRXSE]

Muddy, it tends to be a crap shoot, with none of the various brands having a perfect record.  I tried two sets of Wood lifters, and both were defective so I got tired of screwing around and just went with the Harley B lifters (stock lifters).  I've spoken with techs who have had issues with Fueling lifters, Jim's lifters, Screamin' Eagle lifters, etc., to the point that I'm starting to think there is either just one lousy company making all these various lifters for these companies, or there is something inherently squirrelly about a Harley engine that causes premature lifter failure.  Whatever is going on, there obviously is no one correct answer.

IMHO, just buy another set of stock lifters.  Paying two to four times the price for big "names" doesn't seem to be a guarantee of better quality.

As for the cost, I think the stockers still run $30 apiece MSRP. 


Jerry

Jerry, I'm inclined to see this as you do.

Considering the roller lifters are the same as a 87-up GM 350, I cannot justify the failures as "parts". I'd be more inclined to believe the failures are due to over-restriction of the HD oiling system.

I did note that a few engine builders enlarge the oil passages as part of the build process.

Woods indicates just using dino-oil..... I'm dumping the Syn-3 the dealer put in the bike and will try the Rev-Tech 25W-60... owning a 110inch sewing machine is not what I intended when I bought this bike.

[hogasm]

Jerry, I'm inclined to see this as you do.

Considering the roller lifters are the same as a 87-up GM 350, I cannot justify the failures as "parts". I'd be more inclined to believe the failures are due to over-restriction of the HD oiling system.

I did note that a few engine builders enlarge the oil passages as part of the build process.

Woods indicates just using dino-oil..... I'm dumping the Syn-3 the dealer put in the bike and will try the Rev-Tech 25W-60... owning a 110inch sewing machine is not what I intended when I bought this bike.

there is a slight difference in the Harley lifter and a SBC

[2018_FLTRXSE]

there is a slight difference in the Harley lifter and a SBC

The difference being what?... made in china?

[sadunbar]

The difference being what?... made in china?

One difference being the size of the orafice that controls the volume of oil flow thru the lifter to the top end...

[grc]

One difference being the size of the orafice that controls the volume of oil flow thru the lifter to the top end...

Yup.  That was a point I tried to make in a different thread concerning increased oil temps after adding different lifters and a Baisley bypass spring.  Some lifters send more oil to the top end, and more oil to the top end might help quiet things a little but it also transfers more heat to the oil as well.  A tradeoff that Harley made during development of the Twin Cam was less flow to the heads to keep average oil temps in the 230 range.  More oil to the top end has also been known to increase the amount of oil in the breathers and air cleaner. 

I mention all this just to point out that the engine is a system, and just changing one item without regard for it's affect on the system as a whole isn't always a great idea.  And just because someone advertises their product as the best thing since sliced bread for racing and performance doesn't mean that it won't also affect other things in ways you might not like.  Like certain whiz bang cam profiles that produce big numbers at the dyno shootouts but are a noisy PITA in a street machine, or lifters that take 5 minutes to pump up fully and stop clattering after every startup. 


Jerry

[muddypaws]

The fact that mine quite down after 2 miles should I be concerned and change them?

[grc]

The fact that mine quite down after 2 miles should I be concerned and change them?

If it were mine, I would replace them with another set of Harley lifters.  Not only because of the noise in the first two miles, but because of the many failures folks have had in recent years with the rollers.  If you plan to keep the bike and put a lot of miles on it, I'd consider it cheap mechanical insurance. 

BTW, trading for a 2012 isn't necessarily the answer either.  No magic quality wands have been waved over Milwaukee that I'm aware of, so you are likely to have issues just like you've had with your current bike.  If you've finally got your bike running pretty much the way you want, you might want to spend a little on stuff like the lifters and keep on riding.


JMHO  -  Jerry

[muddypaws]

Should I look at doing anything else while I'm changing the lifters?

[spydglide]

If it were mine, I would replace them with another set of Harley lifters. BTW, trading for a 2012 isn't necessarily the answer either.  No magic quality wands have been waved over Milwaukee that I'm aware of, so you are likely to have issues just like you've had with your current bike.  If you've finally got your bike running pretty much the way you want, you might want to spend a little on stuff like the lifters and keep on riding.


JMHO  -  Jerry

Well, I agree on all except your definition of 'spend a little'......seemed like a lot to me........of course, I waited until the roller quit & mucho damage was done.  spyder

[Dr.D]

The fact that mine quite down after 2 miles should I be concerned and change them?

I recall that in my owners manual there is something about hydraulic lifters and acceptable noise right after start up.

[spydglide]

I recall that in my owners manual there is something about hydraulic lifters and acceptable noise right after start up.

Oh I'm sure... ....CYA.   spyder

[grc]

I recall that in my owners manual there is something about hydraulic lifters and acceptable noise right after start up.

Yup, after sitting all winter maybe.  But not every time you fire the thing up, or after sitting overnight.  Look at it this way, does your automobile do this stuff?  Well, if they don't leak down prematurely in your car then they shouldn't do so in your Harley.

Harley is famous for claiming that all sorts of things are "normal".  And in some cases they are correct, it's normal for their products.  Not normal throughout the industry mind you, just normal for them considering their engineering and quality.  And then we get to the real question, is it acceptable?  I suppose if every other manufacturer had noisy lifters and piston slap, wobbly crankshafts, and all those other "normal" things, then you might conclude that this stuff really was normal.  Since they don't, however, I'd say that it is not only NOT normal but it's also NOT acceptable.

BTW, anyone can claim anything is "normal", but it doesn't necessarily make it so.  I actually claimed to be normal a long time ago.


Jerry

[2018_FLTRXSE]

Roller lifters in any other engine would not have this issue... 5.7 GM for example... due in part to adequate oil flow. Naturally restricting oil flow to lifters will result in long term damage... That isnt rocket science... but is sure must be HD science. 

Methinks HD did not look at the long term failures of lifters as part of thier efforts to reduce oil flow to the top end.

A truly functional oil cooler (with a fan to regulate temp) to dissipate heat would work wonders!

Like this one... http://www.ultracoolfl.com/

The 355 in my Monte SS is clearanced very loose, and noises about, but all normal for the build... however, no lifter clatter at any time.. and its a conventional hydraulic cam. HV/HP oil pump, and yes, as a result, oil temps increase... so the fix is indeed an oil cooler.... 3 in fact... Engine oil, Transmission oil and Power steering fluid.... overkill, but it works.

IMHO better to overbuild something than underbuild it.. I'm sure many here would agree.