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[Rhetor]

Have to be a little careful about the various "bright" LED brake and tail lights.  There are some that are very bright (at night) but which for various reasons can't be seen well in sunlight.  Especially with a trailing sun.  One that is, or at least used to be, offered by Kuryakyn is that way as well as a few more generic alternatives.

The current Harley branded piece seems to do pretty well.  The "BrightAss" lights you mention also seem to hold up well in this regard.  

The signal bar gives a few options; but only a few.  You could stay with the big bar and the pancake lights and use the LED bulb kits from RideTime (and others).  They're the only ones I know of that really fill the area in a pancake style light.  Link here:

http://ridetimetechnology.com/glide_lights.htm

Have those in the back of my old Road Glide and have been well satisified.  Have been told they show up well from the rear in day or night riding.  Some LED regular bulbs won't fit in the pankace style housings.  So this is a good option.

If you change the light bar in the rear completely you'll likely be going to the bullet style lights.  There are many different LED bulbs to plug in to those. RideTime has a flat full surface light for those as well.  They're a bit tricky to get laid down flat and get the lens over correctly.  But they do light up very well.  The company also warrants them forever.  I've got their bullet style lights on the back of my SEEG and the fronts of both bikes.  

One downside to the RideTime lights in the front though.  To me not a big deal.  But forewarned is fore armed.

Even though they are an 1157 socketed bulb they really are only on-off like an 1156 type single element bulb.  The running light feed turns them off.  The little logic module built in to them then turns them off when they see power from the turn signal feed.  

That works fine in normal operation.  Running lights and turn signals work exactly as they should and you never know the difference.  The one time the difference will show up is when using the four-way or hazard flashers.  Four-way flashers won't work in the front with the ignition switch in "off" or in "accessory" if using these RideTime lights since the running lights aren't powered at those times.

Ride Time is temporarily out of stock on all of their lights!  

Hey all, how about this scenario . . . simple . . . add a Kury run-turn-brake controller and a brightass light . . . would that work?  WOuld I need a load equalizer?

[Rhetor]

In the dark entering an off ramp and he hit them, I was blind. (kinda scary)
In a parking garage same thing.

Outside in normal daylight, there was no missing when he 1st engages them.

Steve

Thanks for the blind review!

[mungam]

welllllll
Keep in mind that I do ride very close to his bike. in the 5-10 feet range.

Picture a camera flash going off in your face (going temp blind, knowing you are hitting an off ramp you have never been on before and not knowing where the road goes.) - That kinda scary.

Steve

[Twolanerider]

welllllll
Keep in mind that I do ride very close to his bike. in the 5-10 feet range.

Picture a camera flash going off in your face (going temp blind, knowing you are hitting an off ramp you have never been on before and not knowing where the road goes.) - That kinda scary.

Steve

Ok, got it!  Actually just remembered being behind a bike with one of the SmartAss lights on its rear.  Saw it quite well in the day time.  They'll all show up at night. 

[Twolanerider]

Ride Time is temporarily out of stock on all of their lights!  

Hey all, how about this scenario . . . simple . . . add a Kury run-turn-brake controller and a brightass light . . . would that work?  WOuld I need a load equalizer?

The same lights are available from Custom Dynamics.  And they're a good vendor to work with.  But the BrightAss center light by itself would certainly be a good addition.

You'd not need a load equalizer if the only thing being changed to LED was the center brake light.  That comes in to play if you're changing the corner bulbs to LED.  At least that's how it works 90% of the time.  However.....

I'm not familiar with the module from Kuryakyn.  So can't speak to that one.  I always use the modules from Badlands.  And they've got a light module that has a load equalizer built in.  All one piece in the same footprint.  Do that to begin with and you can then do anything you wish with the corners later.

[kb]

I used Harley run turn & brake control. It take about 30 seconds  to install and seems to work fine.

[Rhetor]

Got the HD run-brake-turn module . . . installed with Kuryakyn red bulbs . . . looks great with the smoked lenses . . . now, just waiting on the delivery of the brightasslight and I think I am done . . . well, except for deciding on and getting delivered and installing an new cam! 

This is fun . . . with you all's help and advice!

[Twolanerider]

Got the HD run-brake-turn module . . . installed with Kuryakyn red bulbs . . . looks great with the smoked lenses . . . now, just waiting on the delivery of the brightasslight and I think I am done . . . well, except for deciding on and getting delivered and installing an new cam! 

This is fun . . . with you all's help and advice!

Good to read you're pleased with the progress so far.  It's a lot more fun when a plan comes together .

[CVOJOE]

That, and the Force.  Use the Force.

And some cable  lubricant!!   

[Rhetor]

And some cable  lubricant!!   

I did use the cable lubricant!  :-)

[Rhetor]

Well, I think the WO513 handlebar install on the 03 SERK is almost done now!  

Took a ride with the mini-apes on . . . but my hands went numb . . . I had pushed them forward as much as possible . . . to be creative . . . . so, I cam back last night and took the nacelle, et. al. off again . . . three hours later, the WO513'S were locked down in parallel with the road forks for symmetry . . . took it on a test run today . . . no numb hands!  But, I feel I am going to have to brake it all down one more time on pull the bars back about an inch more, back past parallel with the fork toward the rider so I can get a full hand grip while leaning back . . . it really will be a perfect setup for me then . . .

So . . . ONE MORE TIME tomorrow morning in the home shop for 3 hours of work to tweak those bars again back one more inch ONE LAST TIME.  Not like the ol' Fatboy . . . looseen and tighten bolts and ride . . . those SERK lights and nacelle and tack cover all have to come off the CVO to adjust the bars . . . makes you feel like an idiot to tell your wife after four hours in the basement, "Honey, I got them perfect his time . . . again."  Then take the test ride and say, "Baby, really, I will be breaking the front end down again, I just need to adjust those bars one more time, then they really will be perfect . . . maybe?"  Ha!  Ha

But the good news is, what started as a simple handlebar change out to the WO513s has been accompanied by (as I explained to my wife, necessary to do while I was doing with the bars install) the following-add ons too:

Smoked auxillary passing lights (they did not come on the 03 SERK);
Harleygoodies floorboard extensions
HD 360 degree highway peg mounts
Large Chrome and rubber highway pegs
HD run-turn-brake module
HD chrome fork lock cover
Kuryakyn red rear turn bulbs
Brightasslight BAL-3ST smoked LED tailight
Power Comander V Retro
5K service and parts with Syn3 oil in all three holes (did it myself); and HD cable oil and grease for the neck
Several sets of sockets (hex sockets and torx sockets) and three different torque wrenches, one in poounds and two in inches (gotta   
      have all the right tools)

I convinced her that they were all integral to taking maximal advantage of the new WO513 handlebars . . . "Yes," I said, "you could do only the handlebars, but it kind of all goes together, like falling dominoes . . . and torquing to spec is critical . . . and these other add-on are related to the handlebars . . . it is all about safety and symmety."  She bought it, so I continued to buy parts.

Now, my wife is brilliant, and suspicious, but gave the financial nod since I seemed to be working so hard on it all.  But, I was not quite smart enough . . . I left a critical add-on off.

Now, I am trying to figure out how a SE18404-08 (the SE Tapered Quick Install pushrods; the kit comes with the pushrods, tubes, clips and o rings) and an Andrews TW26 cam set also can relate to the handlebar change so she will let me buy them to install to totally finish the original simple handlebar install.

I need some creative justifications so that I can get those cams and pushrods ordered and let her know that it is a simple install!

So, alittle persuasive help there guys, so that I can get the push rods and cam set too . . . related to the handlebar which was the original domino?  I need a domino for them to get them into in this handlebar project  

Persuasive argument?  Help?

[Twolanerider]

Now, I am trying to figure out how a SE18404-08 (the SE Tapered Quick Install pushrods; the kit comes with the pushrods, tubes, clips and o rings) and an Andrews TW26 cam set also can relate to the handlebar change so she will let me buy them to install to totally finish the original simple handlebar install.

I need some creative justifications so that I can get those cams and pushrods ordered and let her know that it is a simple install!

Relating the expensive new Bright Ass brake light to handlebars seemed a stretch until, of course, the obvious fact that the brake light switch was on the handlebars was recognized.  Then, of course, it's apparent that one goes with the other.

The handlebars to cam relationship, however, is more subtle and nuanced.  You see, of course, that before you readjusted the handlebars the second (and finally the third) time you had not stumbled on to the proper rider's angle for maximum utilization of engine torque.  It's all about wind resistance and the relationship of that resistance to rider's posture as it impacts the drag coefficient's impact by that posture.  So...... (he says while taking a breath) once you've stumbled on to the proper rider's posture for maximum torque usage anything less than that best torgue you can get from new cams will actually hurt the bike's overall fuel efficiency and reliability.  And since you're actually hurting fuel efficiency by not doing cams, with the handlebars in their current best position, the job will actually end up paying for itself in short order because of the better MPG you'll gain when the cams and the newly acquired best rider's torque posture are fully applied in tamdem in application on the road.

It's all in the science.....

[Rhetor]

Relating the expensive new Bright Ass brake light to handlebars seemed a stretch until, of course, the obvious fact that the brake light switch was on the handlebars was recognized.  Then, of course, it's apparent that one goes with the other.

The handlebars to cam relationship, however, is more subtle and nuanced.  You see, of course, that before you readjusted the handlebars the second (and finally the third) time you had not stumbled on to the proper rider's angle for maximum utilization of engine torque.  It's all about wind resistance and the relationship of that resistance to rider's posture as it impacts the drag coefficient's impact by that posture.  So...... (he says while taking a breath) once you've stumbled on to the proper rider's posture for maximum torque usage anything less than that best torgue you can get from new cams will actually hurt the bike's overall fuel efficiency and reliability.  And since you're actually hurting fuel efficiency by not doing cams, with the handlebars in their current best position, the job will actually end up paying for itself in short order because of the better MPG you'll gain when the cams and the newly acquired best rider's torque posture are fully applied in tamdem in application on the road.

It's all in the science.....

Brilliant, Twolanerider, just Brilliant!  It is all about increasing MPG . . . especially when trying to overcome the resistance my fat a** as I now sit up straight!  Brilliant, now . . . which cam, let's see . . . shat will get me that low and mid range torque to overcome that wind resistance more quickly to save on gas.  Thank you "Science Guy!"  Now I can find and install the right cam knowing I am doing the right thing!  My wife will buy that!   

[Twolanerider]

Brilliant, Twolanerider, just Brilliant!  It is all about increasing MPG . . . especially when trying to overcome the resistance my fat a** as I now sit up straight!  Brilliant, now . . . which cam, let's see . . . shat will get me that low and mid range torque to overcome that wind resistance more quickly to save on gas.  Thank you "Science Guy!"  Now I can find and install the right cam knowing I am doing the right thing!  My wife will buy that!   

I love this chit.
 

[fatboybern]

cant get over all the topics on the handle bar change outs although i was frusterated with mine aswell when i bought my bike new 2nd trip out somebody decided to do me a favour and back into my bike only bent the bars thats it i hated them anyways after riding a stock harley set up for 5 hours it feels like somone took an axe to the center of your shoulder blades so she was nice enough to gimme the cost req to fix em so rather than go through insurance i took a check i called the dealer and found the price on the new bars to be 300 bucks they looked close to stk only 2" higher and 2" back wich by looking at her you would never no but when i tried to pick up my bars they told me they never orded them because it req new hydrolic hoses new riser new cover new tps sensor etc and it would cost me 1200 bucks i was cranky as i would have gladly paid for the chrome rather than the stainless and had to come back another day as the parts were not in stk so the end of the story is the bars were great the tps sensor they had told me i needed for the thicker bars had a different part number but was the exact same sensor i even measured it the old one fit into the new bars the exact same just out of spite i chose to use the old one and kept the new one in the box never had an issue but remember boys most of the older fellows think it is more difficult with wires but they are dead wrong its easier you can cut a wire at whatever length you want it harley uses deutsh not spelled rite but whatever very easy to terminate much cheaper than a sticky dirty high maintanence cable