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[mrmrsconn]

i recently put high compression plugs in my 04' screamin eagle deuce,but im not sure if my engine(95")is high compression.will these plugs do harm to my engine?will they make a difference over standard plugs?

[Keats]

i recently put high compression plugs in my 04' screamin eagle deuce,but im not sure if my engine(95")is high compression.will these plugs do harm to my engine?will they make a difference over standard plugs?

I do not know what "high" compression plugs are!

That engine stock was not "high" compression in  stock form anyway  9.4 to 1

[mrmrsconn]

the plugs are part #32186-10    
Screamin' Eagle® ST Performance Spark Plug - High Compression Applications.

[grc]

The main difference will be to your wallet, not the performance of your bike.  At $16 per plug, Willy G. should have come over to the house and screwed them in for you at no extra charge.

They won't hurt your bike.  They also won't do anything special for it, other than last longer than stock electrode materials.  If you leave them in the bike for about 50,000 miles, versus only 10,000 for standard plugs, then maybe you can justify the price.


Jerry

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

On the higher compression/turbulent combustion chamber builds we use a simple NGK DCPR8E, set @ .035".
Done deal.
Scott

[Hugh Janis]

On the REAL high compression motors you should switch to Diesel spark plugs but they're impossible to find.

[grc]

On the REAL high compression motors you should switch to Diesel spark plugs but they're impossible to find.

If you do find some, make sure to screw them in really tight.  All that compression tends to blow them right back out.


Jerry

[Twolanerider]

If you do find some, make sure to screw them in really tight.  All that compression tends to blow them right back out.


Jerry

Jerry, you'll find that the muffler bearing seals are the same ID.  So if you pack them very carefully around the plug seat they'll keep those plugs from blowing out.

[grc]

Jerry, you'll find that the muffler bearing seals are the same ID.  So if you pack them very carefully around the plug seat they'll keep those plugs from blowing out.

    


Jerry

[AXIL]

it is true for the track ....but not for the street.

[My Bagg]

  At $16 per plug, Willy G. should have come over to the house and screwed them in for you at no extra charge.

Seems like he already did. LOL

[dartman]

Seems like he already did. LOL
[/quot

Ouch, My Lawnmower has higher compression, You could buy a dozen NGK for that price.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Speaking of plugs, the "glob" of cast-in material inside the combustion chamber, that the plug is threaded into, on the OE cast 110" heads, once removed, and the plug is set flush with a spark plug indexing washer, is good for 3-4 cfm @ 10", increase on the intake side of the head, when being tested on a flow bench.
And yes, those plugs I made mention of, when working with ccp's of at/near 190-200 psi(OE 110"/255 cams that is you, as those crank at 205-207 psi with that school bus cam) gapped at .035", WILL show and increase, on a dyno.
Fact.
Scott

[ultraswede]

And if you have problems with knock, you might want to try NGK DR8E, same plug (except the spanner size) as NGK DCPR8E
but a "normal" center electrode, as opposed to the Protruding one in the NGK DCPR8E

We had a racing series with Saab 900 Turbo 8 valve cars in the 80s.
Going from a protruding center electrode (stock) to a normal one solved a severe knock problem when we had the boost @ 15 Psi.

The DR8EA


The DCPR8E

[HD Street Performance]

You're Da Man!
Have had sucess with non-projected tips in other motor sports as well. I wonder if they make that in a 9