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[tomjetty]

2009 FLTRSE3 >90F stuck in traffic. The top end sounds like I forgot the oil. This has happened twice. The first time I assumed that I bought gas that was not the grade posted on the pump. The second time I was using another brand of fuel. The dealer has my bike for two weeks now and perhaps he'll work on it today?? The service department does not pick up the phone. 30K for a bike that I,m afraid to ride on a hot day, warranty about to expire. Am I alone??

[skippy]

Have you had the bike tuned ... lots of mod to get rid of the heat.....

[Hugh Janis]

The ECM shuts down the rear cylinder before it gets to the damage point.

[bigdave110]

Do some searching on the site.
You will see that there are several things you must do to your bike to make it run better..
A tune being one of those things.
Now, if you have done exhaust,air filter, tune and the such, and you bike is still overheating,then you may have another problem altogether.
Hope this helps.
Dave

[LarryB]

The ECM shuts down the rear cylinder before it gets to the damage point.

Check out the heat management system in your owners manual. might be the culprit

[willyB]

Tuned, double verified!!!

These CVO 110's just run hot. You'll hear all kinds of comments about exhaust, tuners and such but the plain fact is these things run H O T!!

I had a '03 Deuce (88") with cams, air clear and a  hot set of pipes and I NEVER complained about the heat. Just goes to show that HD forgot a few engineering details on these 110's!

By the way, has your amp gone out yet. Mine,, 4300 Miles Dead.

Not happy at the moment spending big coin on the top of the heap Harley Davidson. Love the look and features of my 2011 CVO Street Glide but the heat issue is really starting to &^% me off.

[tomjetty]

I ordered & received a set of pipes with the cat cut out, along with 2" baffels & tuner kit from Fulsack 

[tomjetty]

hit the wrong key...
After the oil leak is repaired I'll install them. I hhope it'll fix the problem.

Thanks everyone for the info.   Tom

[tomjetty]

Sorry I failed to respond to the suggestion of the heat management system. It's on & appears to work.  Thanks again

[tomjetty]

Just returned from tee dealer. They were not returning calls so I got into my car and made the 20mi trip through the wonderful BQE. The bike is on the lift - I saw it with my own 2 eyes. Perhaps I'll get it back tomorrow. Thanks again everyone    Tom

[Midnight Rider]

Just returned from tee dealer. They were not returning calls so I got into my car and made the 20mi trip through the wonderful BQE. The bike is on the lift - I saw it with my own 2 eyes. Perhaps I'll get it back tomorrow. Thanks again everyone    Tom

How many miles on the bike?

The exhaust, baffles and tune will help the heat, but if you're getting noises you haven't heard before, there could be other problems.  Get it all documented before the warranty runs out...and keep your copies of the service reports.

[tomjetty]

The bike has about 9K.

I spoke to the service manager last night. They replaced the transmission gaskets & seals ( I guess that I toasted them) Naturally they can't duplicate the overheating problem so they can't fix it. They did find a vent tube on the transmission that was cracked & water in the transmission oil. I did not see any evidence of water in the oil, but I'm glad that they did. So when the part comes in (the tube) I'll get my bike back.
I guess I'll learn how to change the exhaust at that time - Can't be to tuff   Thanks Tom

[Midnight Rider]

The exhaust replacement is not a big deal at all if you have basic tools.  The bike will run better, sound better, and run a bit cooler.  Don't expect miracles on the heat though...these 110" motors are just hot running when it gets hot outside.

I hate to even mention this, but sometimes a better oil will help the noises on the top in a little...again, don't expect too much, but some improvement.  If you're not already doing so, I'd recommend putting task specific fluids in the tranny, primary, and crankcase.  A lot of folks here use Redline products, and that is what I personally prefer as well, particularly the Redline Shockproof for the transmission...it makes a difference in shifting, finding neutral, etc.

You can find their products here:  http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/RedLineOilBigTwin20W50Powerpack/Motorcycle_Oil_Powerpacks

You'll need to add one more quart of primary oil if you get the PowerPack Kit...the funnel is handy, and you get a hat...

It's good stuff...there's other good stuff too, but it's hard to beat their transmission oil, so I'd at least get that.  Mobil 1 Vtwin is good for the motor and easier to find, but I just order the Redline stuff and be done with it.

[tomjetty]

Perhaps I'll try that with the oil. I was using sync3 the first time I over heated then I switched to Amsoil & over heated the second time. The dealer just put sync 3 in the bike today. I'll give redline a try next oil change.

I got my bike back this after noon They changed the seals & gaskets in the transmission. I looked under the bike when I got it home - It's dry :pepper:hot but dry.

I pulled the exhaust off & tried to get the baffles out of the muffler Just about 11PM Tomorrow is another day 


Thanks for the concern    Tom

[Midnight Rider]

Perhaps I'll try that with the oil. I was using sync3 the first time I over heated then I switched to Amsoil & over heated the second time. The dealer just put sync 3 in the bike today. I'll give redline a try next oil change.

I got my bike back this after noon They changed the seals & gaskets in the transmission. I looked under the bike when I got it home - It's dry :pepper:hot but dry.

I pulled the exhaust off & tried to get the baffles out of the muffler Just about 11PM Tomorrow is another day 


Thanks for the concern    Tom

It's not unusual to see oil temps in the 270-280 degree range in hot weather, measured with the LCD dipstick.  Mobil 1, Redline, Amsoil...any of those would be better oil than the Syn3, IMO.

On the baffles...after you think you have the welds ground down, knock the baffle into the can a bit so you can get to the remaining part of the welds and grind them down smooth, then knock the baffles out.  All this should help.