Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[RedEagle]

I've got a '11 FLHTCUSE6.  I went with the Fullsac X "B", their 2.0" baffles in my stock cans, and the Fullsac map, and I couldn't be happier!  Both baffles took about an hour total, the X pipe took about an hour, and the map took about half an hour, only because I'm not a computer geek.  About 95% of the heat is gone, the bike is much more responsive, and much more "ride-able".  I'm very pleased with Fullsac.  Cruising in 6th at about 70 isn't much louder than stock.  Cruisin in 6th at 3,000 rpm, the pipes just start talking a little.  Idling and running thru the gears, it sounds much better than stock.

X2 on my '10 FLHTCUSE5

[Paul1]

Fitted the quiet baffles to the high outputs today, sounds good but have not taken it out yet for a run. Not easy getting the end caps off though 

[timtoolman]

Fulsac "b" x pipe gave me that great torque curve  on my stg 4 107    120/120  118/118

[NorEaster]

Mines got the SEPST tuner & was no problem mapping. Sorry can't comment on the TTS.

Paul1, did you get a map from Fullsac for the SEPST?  I am going to go with the Fullsac X-pipe, 2" baffles, and Andrews 54 cams.  But the HD shop that will be doing the work for me prefers the SEPST.

Since they are the ones that will service my bike, I figure using the tuner they are most comfortable with is not an unreasonable thing.  Especially since the tune in the tuner is what counts, not the brand of the tuner. 

Just trying to figure out if I need to plan on having them do a tune from scratch on their dyno, or if I can just have them load a map from Steve at Fullsac.  And save the money from the dyno to put towards other goodies. 

[Mr D]

I think the base map is great as well- two separate tuners told me it's not worth a custom tune, as it runs so well with the Fullsac map, and the curves on the dyno are ideal.

Enough said.....Ride On 

[RedDevil]

FYI - Word to the wise. Fullsac is now shipping the X-Pipes with bungs for both the old-type and new-type O2 sensors.

You will need a set of bung plugs for the bungs you are not using. I had to scramble the evening before the install to find a set of 18MM plugs for the old-style sensor bungs.

When I ordered my "X" pipes, I had seen on their web site that they came with both sets of bungs on the pipes now.  I told Steve that I didn't want a set with both sets on them and he stated that all the B model X pipes come standard with the smaller bungs located down by the "X".  If you want both set of bungs, they're special order.  You may have gotten a special order set by mistake.   

[skippy49]

  If you've already got a cat less headpipe do you still think it's worth it to buy an X pipe to get rid of heat?  I put a head pipe on mine from another bike that didn't have a cat in it, but would like to get rid of some more heat, but can't bring myself to spend another $475 or so just to get the ceramic coated pipe.  Have any of you made this switch?  Do you think it was worth it?

[Fullsac Performance]

When I ordered my "X" pipes, I had seen on their web site that they came with both sets of bungs on the pipes now.  I told Steve that I didn't want a set with both sets on them and he stated that all the B model X pipes come standard with the smaller bungs located down by the "X".  If you want both set of bungs, they're special order.  You may have gotten a special order set by mistake.   

One set of 02 ports is standard. We have been wondering who got that double set by mistake?  Sorry. 

Steve

[Boatman]

 If you've already got a cat less headpipe do you still think it's worth it to buy an X pipe to get rid of heat?  I put a head pipe on mine from another bike that didn't have a cat in it, but would like to get rid of some more heat, but can't bring myself to spend another $475 or so just to get the ceramic coated pipe.  Have any of you made this switch?  Do you think it was worth it?

I would like to know the same thing (anybody went from a cat less stock headpipe to a X pipe and felt a significant loss in heat with the X pipe over the catless pipe)??

 

[North Georgia Hawg]

One set of 02 ports is standard. We have been wondering who got that double set by mistake?  Sorry. 

Steve

Steve - yeah, Wiz told me that Alice laughed when he asked for the extra bung plugs, and she realized where your missing SO "double-bung" pipe had gotten off to! No problem... the extra bungs will come in handy if I ever get this bike dyno tuned. I was able to get a set of 18mm plugs from Killer the night before Wiz installed the X-Pipe... so all is well.

Your product is AWESOME, Steve! So glad Wiz pointed me to you!

[Paul1]

  If you've already got a cat less headpipe do you still think it's worth it to buy an X pipe to get rid of heat?  I put a head pipe on mine from another bike that didn't have a cat in it, but would like to get rid of some more heat, but can't bring myself to spend another $475 or so just to get the ceramic coated pipe.  Have any of you made this switch?  Do you think it was worth it?

Personally I don't think it is going to make much difference to the heat issue, initially I thought there was a difference in the heat after installing the x pipe, but after a recent trip over to Europe for a long weekend, I came to the conclusion that there is still a major heat issue with these bikes, I know the principals behind air cooled motors are that you need to be moving to cool the motor, but the moment you are stopped in traffic etc. the heat is very uncomfortable, I'm sure it can be reduced slightly by tuning, if I can find someone to tune it correctly ! Really not what I was expecting from a top of the range touring bike, but will stick with it as I love the ride apart from this heat issue. 

[timo482]

part of the heat issue is size

a 40 hp engine produces less than half the heat of a 80 hp engine

high hp harley engines will be much hotter than old flat heads NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO

to make the rider experience cool, the engine would need to be water cooled and have the hot air blown out the back of the bike after the rear tire & thats not exactly appealing

to

[skippy49]

part of the heat issue is size

a 40 hp engine produces less than half the heat of a 80 hp engine

high hp harley engines will be much hotter than old flat heads NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO

to make the rider experience cool, the engine would need to be water cooled and have the hot air blown out the back of the bike after the rear tire & thats not exactly appealing

to

   I certainly understand what you're saying but my 09 110 SERG is a lot hotter than my 103 SERK.  Not a big difference in engine size but a sizable difference in heat produced.

[rrussow]

Novice needs advice.  I have a 2010 CVO Street Glide with CFR slip ons and an EFI Super Tuner.  I love the deep rumble of the CFR's and I don't want a louder sound but want more power and less heat.  The bike has been Dyno tuned which resulted in 91.07 max power and 110.76 max torque.

In your opinion, will the fullsac x-pipe and some Andrews cams help me meet my goal? 

[HOGMIKE]

Novice needs advice.  I have a 2010 CVO Street Glide with CFR slip ons and an EFI Super Tuner.  I love the deep rumble of the CFR's and I don't want a louder sound but want more power and less heat.  The bike has been Dyno tuned which resulted in 91.07 max power and 110.76 max torque.

In your opinion, will the fullsac x-pipe and some Andrews cams help me meet my goal? 

What was that goal again?