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[grc]

From the Redline website FAQ's:

Q: Should I flush my engine or driveline before using Red Line's synthetic lubricants?
A: A flush isn't necessary or advised, as Red Line's products are compatible and will mix with other synthetics and petroleum products. 
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Short of repeatedly filling with solvent and draining, or disassembling and running all the parts through a thorough parts wash process, I don't think you could remove all traces of the Shockproof anyway.  That stuff sticks to parts like nothing else I've ever used.


Jerry

[RioGlide]

In a real "emergency" - that is, down 2qt+ - then add any viscosity, either dino or synthetic to top off to the fill mark.

Then, if you have mixed viscosities and/or conventional/blend/full synthetic, then have a full oil plus filter changed as soon as practical.  Seen this advice in various locations, including the "official" MoCo recommendation in the owners' manual.

If you are mixing brands, and the weights are the same & you're either all dino, all blend, or all synth, then (IMO) you can wait til your next scheduled service to change.  As Don mentioned above, there are synth blends, but since those are formulated by chemical engineers (at least I would hope so) then I wouldn't personally leave dino + synth even of the same viscosity in if I could get a full oil & filter change done very soon.

Then the last thing to ask is, if you've had a 2qt+ low situation - how did it happen?  Bad valves or rings?  Straight leak?  Forgot to check often enough?

PS I generally don't top up to the full mark - the 110 motors I've had don't seem to like the last quarter of a quart, so I don't add until I need a half quart according to the mark, then I'll add an eyeballed pint.  If I go a little over, it pukes it out anyway through the AC.

On dino vs synth, I'm a full believer in synthetic (non-blend) for best service - both hard duty (ie, the heat our motors generate) and mileages.  I don't think a few bucks saved is worth it, and just look at the difference at 5K miles between how dino looks to the eye versus synth - filthy versus clean.

If you've had a lot of parade duty high heat, or high speed/high heat conditions, change it sooner.  If you're in a cool climate and most of your rides are 50mph backroads with few idling conditions, change it a little later.

But put whatever's at hand in it if you're not hitting the dipstick when you check it & then find out why it happened when you service it.

[Talon]

I personally wouldn't mix syn with Dino oil, it will dilute the benefits of the syn oil. With syn oil everywhere why would you add dino to your syn. I use Mobil1, you can find it at most auto parts stores, and wal-mart.

[mark]

This is a little off the thread topic, but I'm coming up on my next fluid change (SESG 110 c.i.).  Read a lot about Redline oil products and thought I'd give them a try.  Went to their website and they have quite a lot to choose from.  Here's my question:

Should I order the big twin power pack kit they offer or piece together my own choices for the tranny, crankcase, and primary?

I live in a hot climate (south Georgia).  Any thoughts on 20w50 vs. 20w60?


 

[sadunbar]

This is a little off the thread topic, but I'm coming up on my next fluid change (SESG 110 c.i.).  Read a lot about Redline oil products and thought I'd give them a try.  Went to their website and they have quite a lot to choose from.  Here's my question:

Should I order the big twin power pack kit they offer or piece together my own choices for the tranny, crankcase, and primary?

I live in a hot climate (south Georgia).  Any thoughts on 20w50 vs. 20w60?


 

I run Redline 20w60 in my motor...   

[grc]

This is a little off the thread topic, but I'm coming up on my next fluid change (SESG 110 c.i.).  Read a lot about Redline oil products and thought I'd give them a try.  Went to their website and they have quite a lot to choose from.  Here's my question:

Should I order the big twin power pack kit they offer or piece together my own choices for the tranny, crankcase, and primary?

I live in a hot climate (south Georgia).  Any thoughts on 20w50 vs. 20w60?


 

First, if you order the kit I believe you will need to order an additional quart for the primary.  The kit I'm familiar with only has one quart of primary fluid, which is correct for '06 and earlier bikes but not for '07 and later.  Second, I can see no reason why you shouldn't use 20W60, especially in a hot climate.  If you look in your owner manual, Harley says 60 weight is OK for temps over 80°F.


Jerry

[Talon]

I love the shock proof in the trans, much better shifting, but use mobil1 in the motor just because it's easier to find.

Craig

[Midnight Rider]

First, if you order the kit I believe you will need to order an additional quart for the primary.  The kit I'm familiar with only has one quart of primary fluid, which is correct for '06 and earlier bikes but not for '07 and later.  Second, I can see no reason why you shouldn't use 20W60, especially in a hot climate.  If you look in your owner manual, Harley says 60 weight is OK for temps over 80°F.


Jerry

Yes...order an extra quart of Primary Fluid.  I think I'm going to switch to the 20w60 for next summer.  Can't hurt anything...It was hot as Hades here this summer.

[DESERTBEAR54]

20/60 works good in our 115 degree weather!!

[bigdave110]

20/60 works good in our 115 degree weather!!

Hey now.
Better watch yourself, we all know you must use syn3 in your motor or the wonderful moco will not help you anymore.
Wouldn't want them to void your warranty for even talking about another brand, would you? 
Just having some fun brother.
Hope all is great with the motor this time.
Dave

[MKW]

Syn 3 in the motor, RedLine V Twin with shockproof in the trans and RedLine primary case oil in the primary.  No complaints.

[DESERTBEAR54]

Dave I am glad you picked up on that because it is a sore subject with me but my brothers in their Ultra's are all running Redline 20/60 and love it because I talked them into using it and they wouldn't run anything else. For my situation I must wait till my warranty is up so that the Moco doesn't void my warrany. Because of me using it in my first 2 motors the area rep from Moco believes that is what caused my engine failures. Yea Right!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They are allowing me to use Redline in the P & T but I must use Syn 3 in the motor to be able to have any more engine warranty with the Moco. It doesn't make sense but I am not in the mood to fight my local dealer that has treated me good and the area rep. Thank God my local dealer rebuilt my third motor well and it has been running awesome ever since even with Syn 3. There will be a day soon that I use all Redline Products on BLUU!!!

[LC110]

I must use Syn 3 in the motor to be able to have any more engine warranty with the Moco.

So are they providing the Syn 3 to you at no cost?

[DESERTBEAR54]

No I ended up buying the Maint Program which I believe was there total motive to start with so for 2 years I let them change the oil in the motor. This is only because I am on motor 3 from the Moco on my 2010 SEUC and I want support from my dealer and the Moco.

[DESERTBEAR54]

Tucson Harley. Area Tech Rep from Moco was a guy named Red that hammered Tucson Harley for warranting my motor with Redline in it. As you know the Moco can pretty much come up with specific reasons why they don't want to warranty a specific failure without making the customers life miserable and when you have a young buck service manager in place he is going by what the Moco is telling him. Since I was on my 3rd motor and love my 110 when its running as advertised I didn't want to get into a pissing contest with my only local dealer and mother harley. So BLUU has been running awesome all summer with Syn 3 in it and redline in the P & T. God help me if I have a P & T failure!!