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Author Topic: POS 110  (Read 8958 times)

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Cvostu

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Re: POS 110
« Reply #30 on: September 11, 2011, 12:58:31 AM »

Hey Gup.  I'm just like you.  Shoot and then look for reasons why after.  I'm really glad for you that a 7/16 wrench and an Allen key fixed your problem.   I just wish we all could have seen the look on your face when you found out what it was.   Well we are all happy for you..   Get some good riding in,  you earned it.   :2vrolijk_21:
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guppytrash

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Re: POS 110
« Reply #31 on: September 11, 2011, 01:02:31 AM »

Thanks to all of you!
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SG Racer

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Re: POS 110
« Reply #32 on: September 12, 2011, 12:11:47 AM »

Really good to hear. Sometimes the little things will get you.
 I had a customer come to my shop one time. She had a newer model Camaro, out of warranty. It sounded just like a rod knocking. She was prepared for the worst. I got the car in the air and it had a big rock wedged in between the exhaust crossover and the frame. I had to remove the exhaust to get it out. Fixed her problem. She has been a great customer ever since. Glad you found it.
 Ray
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Re: POS 110
« Reply #33 on: September 12, 2011, 01:02:33 PM »

Good to hear it was just your Footboard being loose.  No Road Gremlin bell needed.
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PMG1

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Re: POS 110
« Reply #34 on: September 12, 2011, 02:09:44 PM »

Just so you know you can purchase a factory HD warranty after they expire. You cannot make a clam for 60 or 90 days but thats not a problem. Same warranty as when new you can even get the tire and wheel package.

One year is like $750 all the way to 5 years for $1,900? I think thats close. Like a few have said one small problem can cost a bunch. Just a thought
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guppytrash

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Re: POS 110
« Reply #35 on: September 15, 2011, 08:53:34 PM »

OK the knock went away when I tightened the floor board and I was thrilled.
But I still have a tick between 2000rpm and 2200rpm. 
Now I couldn't let this go had a third very experienced and reputable HD tech ride it after he installed my Rivera Pro clutch.
Don't worry about it they all make that ticking noise.
Well I decided I still was not happy so I thought I would do the cams I have been waiting on now rather than this winter.  Just to check things a little deeper.
Glad I did....here is what I found.
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guppytrash

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Re: POS 110
« Reply #36 on: September 15, 2011, 08:56:03 PM »

If you cant tell in the picture the one on the right was no longer rolling.
It was the rear cylinder intake lifter.
That lobe on the cam is of course scratched also.
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guppytrash

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Re: POS 110
« Reply #37 on: September 15, 2011, 09:00:46 PM »

Good news is the cam install is turning out to be a fun experience.
I was worried about the bearing puller but that was a piece of cake.
So far the most difficult part has get the lifter covers and the cam cover loose after the bolts were out.  Those sucker's were stuck on there!  Had to hit them with a rubber mallet to break them loose.  I don't like hammers of any kind they make me nervous...but all is well.
going out to install the timken bearings now. 
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North Georgia Hawg

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Re: POS 110
« Reply #38 on: September 15, 2011, 09:04:07 PM »

If you cant tell in the picture the one on the right was no longer rolling.
It was the rear cylinder intake lifter.
That lobe on the cam is of course scratched also.

YIKES! Do yourself a favor.... when you get your new cams, get some HQ Black Ops lifters to go with them. They are super quiet... really quieted down the cam chest noise on my bike. I'm told that the Woods Bi-Directional lifters are really good also, but I have no personal experience with them. I got the Black Ops for about $159.47 for the set of 4 online from http://protwin.com. I really like them.
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T-Hawk

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Re: POS 110
« Reply #39 on: September 15, 2011, 09:27:09 PM »

I guess this is a case were reading so many threads on the 110 problems I was pre wired to the engine being the problem.
Remember that I was not the only one that assumed it was a 110 issue.  2 different HD techs went that direction also. 
In the end I am just glad it was NOT the motor.
As far as upgrading the cam and lifters that will be done this winter.  It is time!
Might even have some headwork done.
But right now I am going out for a ride. :2vrolijk_21:

Okay, I'm fixn' to display my Newbie Status like no other...

I'm not a gear-head (no disrespect or offense meant), but I have this mechanic that the whole town trust with their bikes, all makes, but especially their Harleys.

He was disappointed when I brought in my CVO Ultra for him to give it the first 1,000 check up... he commented, "why didn't you just get the 103... or even another 96... there's so much I can do to those motors as far as punching them up to larger displacement and power to go with... I can change cams and lifters and this and that in the 110 and it doesn't make a bit of difference... it's the tuner that gives the 100 it's full potential".

I keep reading on this forum about folks changing this and that, and then others having problems after installing this and that.

Call me what you want... but am I missing something here.  I thought the whole Screamin' Eagle 110 was the most one could do with that block/motor, whatever (really don't know what I'm talking about)...

I've only owned (4) bikes in my 28 years of riding and the last one before the CVO was an '08 FXDWG... I never worried about maintenance as I always took them to a responsible mechanic if I ever noticed anything out of the norm.

My concern reading these threads talking about 'problems' with the 110 doesn't give me an easy feeling in my gut.

If I do nothing to the motor, only install a premium exhaust (already have K&N under stock breather) and have it tuned so it doesn't run lean... not really concerned about gaining power, as it has all I've ever dreamed of... am I looking forward to having to take it to the mechanic over and over for commonly inherent problems that is the 110?   :nixweiss:

I welcome any comments... positive or negative, as I'm not much for arguing over a keyboard, but I'm been paying attention to this forum for quite some time before I introduced myself... long before I even owned a CVO. 

Mostly just curious  :nixweiss:

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guppytrash

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Re: POS 110
« Reply #40 on: September 15, 2011, 09:27:37 PM »

I already have S&S lifter's to replace the HD's.

PROBLEM
The problem is that bore for that lifter is to tight.  It was tight pulling the bad lifter out...had to use Vise grips to pull the lifter out but just assumed it was because the bad lifter had deformed..but I put one of the good ones in that hole and it won't even slide in there.  
 :nixweiss: :nixweiss:
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guppytrash

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Re: POS 110
« Reply #41 on: September 15, 2011, 09:33:38 PM »

Okay, I'm fixn' to display my Newbie Status like no other...

I keep reading on this forum about folks changing this and that, and then others having problems after installing this and that.

If I do nothing to the motor, only install a premium exhaust (already have K&N under stock breather) and have it tuned so it doesn't run lean... not really concerned about gaining power, as it has all I've ever dreamed of... am I looking forward to having to take it to the mechanic over and over for commonly inherent problems that is the 110?   

T-Hawk
My bike has exhaust AC and a tuner with 24k on the miles.  Up until now the motor has not required any thing more than regular maintenance.
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T-Hawk

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Re: POS 110
« Reply #42 on: September 15, 2011, 09:41:04 PM »

T-Hawk
My bike has exhaust AC and a tuner with 24k on the miles.  Up until now the motor has not required any thing more than regular maintenance.


Okay, so last question on this subject (for awhile anyway)...

Why do I see everyone replacing Harley Cams and Lifters in their Eagles with other manufactures products?

No response necessary, unless it's simple enough even I could understand.

I know all about how a skilled individual can upgrade a Chevy 350... even if I've never done it... but for some reason I'm under the impression that you can't gain anything from the 110 by changing out the internals.

Thanks,
Ted
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Re: POS 110
« Reply #43 on: September 15, 2011, 11:13:44 PM »

Why do I see everyone replacing Harley Cams and Lifters in their Eagles with other manufactures products?

Simple... there are much better cams and lifters on the market than the MoCo ones... and LOTS of other internal and external components, too. You're not going to pick up an instant 20Hp or 20 ft/lbs of torque from installing aftermarket cams - but given the right cam for your other components, you can pick up several HP and better torque easily. Engine performance is a balance of lots of different factors, and the build has to be right in order for all of these components to work together for the way you ride your bike. You may want a lot of low end torque, or you may want more higher-RPM HP. I am more of a low-end torque rider myself - but lots of guys love to rev it to the redline. I don't like to do that much, because it's hard on the engine, and everything wears out faster.

Harley cams are built to keep the EPA happy, and to make a lot of money for the MoCo. Period. You rarely see the MoCo doing anything really radical as far as performance goes - because they don't want customers coming back with reliability or performance imbalance issues. They are in the business to make money - lots of it - and when you go out on the edge performance-wise, you are naturally going to run into problems that you would never see on stock builds - because you're pushing the envelope. The MoCo doesn't like to have problems nor do they want to tinker with esoteric stuff... they want everything running smoothly, with minimal downstream customer hassles. They operate on volume and optimal business efficiency - not on getting maximum performance.

Aftermarket manufacturers have a completely different business model - they focus on delivering products that will improve the performance of their customers' bikes. Aftermarket cams (Andrews, S&S, Woods, V-Thunder, etc.) are built to get maximum performance... that's why we buy the darn things. If they didn't deliver on this premise, then all of those cam manufacturers wouldn't be able to stay in business very long making "better" cams than the MoCo. As to lifters, I chose the HQ Black Ops (on the advice of the Wizard who tuned my bike) to quiet down the cam chest noise, and they do it very well. They are engineered for maximum performance, not manufacturing efficiency, and they have to be. If they weren't better than what you can buy from the MoCo, these guys wouldn't be able to stay in business very long making lifters, either.

This is not to say that any aftermarket cam, or lifter, or anything else, is going to automatically be better than the MoCo's... because that wouldn't be true. But most are, or the manufacturers would quickly go out of business. Plus, the aftermarket guys are not strangled by EPA regs the way the MoCo is. Harley is big and very well-known, and they have to toe the EPA line very well because of their visibility. The aftermarket guys have more freedom. For example, the "right" cam will enable your engine to breathe better - to move more air (and fuel!) through the engine, which enables the engine to make more power - given that the other components (pipes, A/C, etc... and the TUNE) are correct  - to enable the cam to do its job properly. Everything has to work together - in harmony - to deliver all the performance for which your engine is capable. A stock Harley - even a CVO 110" - is NOT optimized for maximum performance when you buy it at all! It is optimized for (1) profitability to the MoCo, (2) EPA compliance, (distant 3) reliability, and then (even more distant 4) the best performance they can reasonably deliver after the first three objectives are completely met.

Nearly all Harley owners replace their pipes and A/C (on a non-CVO bike) first, and have their ECM remapped (tuned) for proper AFR - because that's the biggest bang for the buck to improve performance. That's called "Stage 1" - opening up the airflow path through the engine. The next step, "Stage 2", involves changing cams (and cam bearings!) and likely lifters, to get more performance by further optimizing the airflow. The next step, "Stage 3", involves changing internal engine components such as head porting, stiffer valve springs, roller rockers, higher-compression pistons, bigger throttle bodies, etc. At Stage 3, you had better know what you are doing - because once you starting messing with internal engine components the picture gets a much more complex. At this stage, you are changing multiple variables, and it's much more difficult to keep everything in harmony to produce maximum power without destroying the engine with an imbalance somewhere. Reliabiliity is also increasingly difficult to maintain at Stage 3 because of all the variables to manage. There are lots of things you can do once you really get into the engine... all it takes is MONEY (a LOT of it), and KNOW-HOW.

I will probably stop where I am at "Stage 2", and try to enhance the tune with my current components - because I don't want to spend another several thousand dollars trying to create a fire-breathing monster that will blow away any other bike on the street - but end up needing a top-end job every year or two... or worse. I want to ride this thing a lot... not rebuild it.

In my opinion, if you're going to go with aftermarket parts... you need to read, read, READ, and hopefully make contact with people who do this for a living, and who really know what they are talking about. That will help keep you from going astray in the search for better performance and not achieving it. This forum is an excellent place to make those contacts. It's worked for me!  :drink:
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Re: POS 110
« Reply #44 on: September 16, 2011, 08:21:09 AM »

In my opinion, if you're going to go with aftermarket parts... you need to read, read, READ, and hopefully make contact with people who do this for a living, and who really know what they are talking about. That will help keep you from going astray in the search for better performance and not achieving it. This forum is an excellent place to make those contacts. It's worked for me!  :drink:

Thank you!!!  This thread has answered some questions I've had in the back of my mind for the last month.  As a new CVO owner, I want to understand this bike and how to make it run efficently, but also get the most I can out of it. 

I believe this bike has a Stage II build, but have no idea what parts are inside.  Guess we'll find that out when we take er appart for one reason or another. 

Thanks all for the great information and support.  This is a terriffic group!   :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21:

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