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[Fatboy]

I don't know!  I am just going by what I ordered from Eastern Performance who called it the Torque Baffle.

I think it was BuB Part #1800-0242

In my garage, yes they are very loud but outside at idle...they did not make the cops turn their head.  Now, the Big Radius on the SED, they have a little more "Bark" than the Rineharts...so I may not be the best judge.

/Bill

__________________________________________________________________

 I bought the same item from the same Distributor and I agree with all your comment's on the subject.
I had Vance & Hines slip-ons prior to the Rineharts and they were louder. Heck, my friends Fat Catted Street Glide drowns me out....I thought if anything I'd want my Rineharts a little louder. Even my wife's Vance & Hines Big Shots-Long on her Fat Boy are way louder than any Rinehart's I've seen......er heard.

[Eqcons]

Jim,
Glad to hear that Karen is taking care of you, and you are getting this resolved (at least the bad parts) to your satisfaction.

 [smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 [smiley=fireman.gif]

Thanks Fired00d.  I'll let you all know when the heatshields arrive.  Now if I could just get the noise level down a bit......

I reckon that if I was enterprising enough, I could design baffles for these that would quieten them down, and an alternative mounting to the P-Clamp to get rid of the melted boot problem.   But I haven't the facilities to make such things, and in the wilds of rural Scotland, nowhere to get them made, either!

Jim

[Eqcons]

__________________________________________________________________

 I bought the same item from the same Distributor and I agree with all your comment's on the subject.
I had Vance & Hines slip-ons prior to the Rineharts and they were louder. Heck, my friends Fat Catted Street Glide drowns me out....I thought if anything I'd want my Rineharts a little louder. Even my wife's Vance & Hines Big Shots-Long on her Fat Boy are way louder than any Rinehart's I've seen......

I can't understand why mine are so loud, at all! But I can assure you that I've just heard two louder bikes, ever, one a chopper with just straight pipes, no mufflers, and one a Glide with Long Shots.   These are very, very, very loud!  At the moment, the local cops are clamping down VERY hard on loud pipes too....  :-/

I wonder if these "torque baffles" make them quieter?

Jim

[WFP]

...an alternative mounting to the P-Clamp to get rid of the melted boot problem.  ...

I am a little concerned about this...My belief is that my rear heat shield is blueing because it is in contact with the pipe itself and there is no airflow to allow proper insulation from the heat.  Now, translate that to the front pipe, the "P" clamp encircles the pipe itself, with the straight side of the "P" against the frame mounting location and the round side of the "P" circling the pipe.  The "P" clamp is about, from memory, 1/8" thick, ~3mm.  That means that it should help keep the heat shield at least 1/8" or 3mm from the pipe thus reducing the amount of heat near your boot.


Looking from back to front, here is my crude attempt at a drawing using MS Paint...


/Bill

[WFP]

Also, forgive the stupid question, but is this general area where you located the P-Clamp and did you slide it up the pipe with the heat shield installed on the pipe?

/Bill

[Eqcons]

I am a little concerned about this...My belief is that my rear heat shield is blueing because it is in contact with the pipe itself and there is no airflow to allow proper insulation from the heat.  Now, translate that to the front pipe, the "P" clamp encircles the pipe itself, with the straight side of the "P" against the frame mounting location and the round side of the "P" circling the pipe.  The "P" clamp is about, from memory, 1/8" thick, ~3mm.  That means that it should help keep the heat shield at least 1/8" or 3mm from the pipe thus reducing the amount of heat near your boot.


Looking from back to front, here is my crude attempt at a drawing using MS Paint...


/Bill

Not such a crude attempt, Bill!

The problem I found is this.  When it came time to fit the heatshield, it had to be forced over the P-clamp, which made a bulge in it. But consider this:

Pipe OD = 2"  P-Clamp thickness = 1/8"  so Pipe + P-clamp = 2¼"  Heatshield ID = 2¼" so they are in full contact and the heatshield gets v. hot.  It is BOUND to blue, methinks, but in any case it melts boots and gets covered in residue from superheated leathers etc....

Jim

[Eqcons]

Also, forgive the stupid question, but is this general area where you located the P-Clamp and did you slide it up the pipe with the heat shield installed on the pipe?

/Bill

Yes. the P-clamp is fixed to the same bracket that the OEM P-clamp fixes to.  No, I installed the pipe, with the P-clamp attached, spread the P-clamp to get it into the OEM bracket, tightened it, and THEN fitted the heat shield - all in accordance with the instructions. I don't believe it would be possible to slide it up the pipe with the heatshield installed, as you'd struggle to spread it to get it into the OEM bracket....

Jim

[Eqcons]

These baffle part numbers have me baffled!  

Drag Specialties list:

1860-0088  2” i.d. quiet baffles (pr.)   $109.95  
1860-0089  2 1/2” i.d. Hi-Flo performance baffles (pr.)   $109.95  
0411-1001  2” i.d. quiet baffles (pr.)   $109.95  
1860-0036  2 1/2” i.d. Hi-Flo performance baffles (pr.)  

and WFP says he got the Torque Baffle:
1800-0242

So which is the quietest, and most importantly which of these (or is it another entirely!) are the standard baffles???

Jim

[WFP]

Yes. the P-clamp is fixed to the same bracket that the OEM P-clamp fixes to.  No, I installed the pipe, with the P-clamp attached, spread the P-clamp to get it into the OEM bracket, tightened it, and THEN fitted the heat shield - all in accordance with the instructions. I don't believe it would be possible to slide it up the pipe with the heatshield installed, as you'd struggle to spread it to get it into the OEM bracket....

Jim

Got it...I admit, I was going from memory.

/Bill

[Eqcons]

Well, that very nice lady Karen in the warranty dept at Bub has told me my new heatshields are on the way, but I think I've finally decided I'm going to replace the Rineharts.  They look great, but just don't provide what I want from them, as there are numerous, and ongoing problems.  I'm forever having to fiddle with them to adjust the clearances; they are too close to the rear axle nut, they are too close to the primary, too close to the frame, and the rear pipe is too far forward - that will make it difficult, if not impossible, to remove the primary cover; additionally I melted my waterproofs on it, and the Mrs keeps melting her boot soles on it.  On the other side, the heatshield gets too hot through being in full contact with the "P" Clamp, the chrome quality is not impressive (actually managed to polish through it!). The black tips are starting to purple already.

I don't like the noise they make - they are just too strident, not a deep rumble.  It keeps tripping the vox (regardless of setting) when I crack open the throttle.

Worst of all, they kill the low end torque stone dead.  My friend has a CSE2 that has a stage 1 SE filter, stage 1 download, SE slipons.  It makes the nicest rumble, and would rip the side of a house off from 1500rpm in 5th gear; at those revs, mine wouldn't pull a soldier off your sister.  

My next thinking is likely to be V&H True Dual headers and SE Slipons as a replacement.  Anyone else got that setup on a CUSE?

Jim

[amigo Jorge]

That sucks.  Please keep us posted on how this works out.  I'm still waiting for mine to show up. Ordered from Drag and they keeping pushing the delivery date out, I'm at 4wks. now.  I was starting to think that we were getting jerked around, but at the ROT Rally the guys from J&P told me they were having the same issues getting these pipes in.  
I'll be really disappointed if I've waited this long and have the same experience.
Best of Luck

I have had better results purchasing the parts from ebay...... [smiley=banana.gif] Give a try...Jorge

[Big Al]

Well, that very nice lady Karen in the warranty dept at Bub has told me my new heatshields are on the way, but I think I've finally decided I'm going to replace the Rineharts.  They look great, but just don't provide what I want from them, as there are numerous, and ongoing problems.  I'm forever having to fiddle with them to adjust the clearances; they are too close to the rear axle nut, they are too close to the primary, too close to the frame, and the rear pipe is too far forward - that will make it difficult, if not impossible, to remove the primary cover; additionally I melted my waterproofs on it, and the Mrs keeps melting her boot soles on it.  On the other side, the heatshield gets too hot through being in full contact with the "P" Clamp, the chrome quality is not impressive (actually managed to polish through it!). The black tips are starting to purple already.

I don't like the noise they make - they are just too strident, not a deep rumble.  It keeps tripping the vox (regardless of setting) when I crack open the throttle.

Worst of all, they kill the low end torque stone dead.  My friend has a CSE2 that has a stage 1 SE filter, stage 1 download, SE slipons.  It makes the nicest rumble, and would rip the side of a house off from 1500rpm in 5th gear; at those revs, mine wouldn't pull a soldier off your sister.  

My next thinking is likely to be V&H True Dual headers and SE Slipons as a replacement.  Anyone else got that setup on a CUSE?

Jim

HD-dude just installed my D&D Fatcats (+ other Zippers goodies-cams etc etc) and I am VERY happy. Key to D&D is the 2 into 1 which is (now proven) to build low end torque..There are a few threads with the dyno curves from the various set-ups....Anyway...I liked the look of the Rinehardts but D&D chrome is a total winner.  I will leave it to hd-dude to talk the details...It works...

[Crawdaddy]

Well, that very nice lady Karen in the warranty dept at Bub has told me my new heatshields are on the way, but I think I've finally decided I'm going to replace the Rineharts.  They look great, but just don't provide what I want from them, as there are numerous, and ongoing problems.  I'm forever having to fiddle with them to adjust the clearances; they are too close to the rear axle nut, they are too close to the primary, too close to the frame, and the rear pipe is too far forward - that will make it difficult, if not impossible, to remove the primary cover; additionally I melted my waterproofs on it, and the Mrs keeps melting her boot soles on it.  On the other side, the heatshield gets too hot through being in full contact with the "P" Clamp, the chrome quality is not impressive (actually managed to polish through it!). The black tips are starting to purple already.

I don't like the noise they make - they are just too strident, not a deep rumble.  It keeps tripping the vox (regardless of setting) when I crack open the throttle.

Worst of all, they kill the low end torque stone dead.  My friend has a CSE2 that has a stage 1 SE filter, stage 1 download, SE slipons.  It makes the nicest rumble, and would rip the side of a house off from 1500rpm in 5th gear; at those revs, mine wouldn't pull a soldier off your sister.  

My next thinking is likely to be V&H True Dual headers and SE Slipons as a replacement.  Anyone else got that setup on a CUSE?

Jim

Jim,

I have a similar story, but not with heat shields.  My left pipe bracket broke at the starter and left a hole as big as my thumb.  Karen at Bub was a great help in replacing the whole pipe and supplying a new bracket.

I did not reinstall the Rhineharts.  I did install the V&H true duals with SE slip ons.  With the 103+ heads, pistons and 257 cams, my bike pulls nicely.  I posted my dyno numbers in the SEEG thread this past May.  The torque curve is smooth and comes on right around 2700 rpm.  They have a nice rumble, look good and will bark like a mad dog if you twist it WFO.

CD

[Eqcons]

Jim,

I have a similar story, but not with heat shields.  My left pipe bracket broke at the starter and left a hole as big as my thumb.  Karen at Bub was a great help in replacing the whole pipe and supplying a new bracket.

I did not reinstall the Rhineharts.  I did install the V&H true duals with SE slip ons.  With the 103+ heads, pistons and 257 cams, my bike pulls nicely.  I posted my dyno numbers in the SEEG thread this past May.  The torque curve is smooth and comes on right around 2700 rpm.  They have a nice rumble, look good and will bark like a mad dog if you twist it WFO.

CD

Thanks CD.

Yes, Karen at Bub is a real asset to them, that's for sure!

Pleased to note that you went with V&H and SE Slipons.  I feel that's definitely the way for me.  How is the fit on the V&H? Any problems with them in any other way at all?


Jim

[Pap]

Well, that very nice lady Karen in the warranty dept at Bub has told me my new heatshields are on the way, but I think I've finally decided I'm going to replace the Rineharts.  They look great, but just don't provide what I want from them, as there are numerous, and ongoing problems.  I'm forever having to fiddle with them to adjust the clearances; they are too close to the rear axle nut, they are too close to the primary, too close to the frame, and the rear pipe is too far forward - that will make it difficult, if not impossible, to remove the primary cover; additionally I melted my waterproofs on it, and the Mrs keeps melting her boot soles on it.  On the other side, the heatshield gets too hot through being in full contact with the "P" Clamp, the chrome quality is not impressive (actually managed to polish through it!). The black tips are starting to purple already.

I don't like the noise they make - they are just too strident, not a deep rumble.  It keeps tripping the vox (regardless of setting) when I crack open the throttle.

Worst of all, they kill the low end torque stone dead.  My friend has a CSE2 that has a stage 1 SE filter, stage 1 download, SE slipons.  It makes the nicest rumble, and would rip the side of a house off from 1500rpm in 5th gear; at those revs, mine wouldn't pull a soldier off your sister.  

My next thinking is likely to be V&H True Dual headers and SE Slipons as a replacement.  Anyone else got that setup on a CUSE?

Jim

I have the V&H True Duals with V&H Ovals.  Great sound and performance.  I'd recommend you consider them.  I thought some of the SE slip-ons are going to be unavailable.  There are some posts on this site that talk about this subject.

Ride Safe.
Pap