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[T-Hawk]

While I have searched the site for others with same problem, I haven't found any that describes my problem.

Recently, I was in a neighboorhood that I needed to lock the forks/bags etc...  When I returned to the bike to ride home, I could not get the switch itself to unlock without having to jiggle it while working the key in the switch.  

Once I was able to get the switch unstuck and able to put it into run mode, the bike did not power up at all... nothing.  The switch would now easily rotate from Off to Run to Accessories without sticking, but could not get it to put power to the bike.

I made sure the forks were actually unlocked and they were, so I rotated the switch back to the locked position, but with out actually locking with the key, only to have it get stuck again.

After about 5 mins of locking and unlocking the forks and getting the switch unstuck I finally managed to get power back to the bike and have been riding without issues for the past couple of weeks.  But, without ever putting the switch into the locked position, for fear that I wouldn't be able to undo it.

The Dealership looked at it in the parking lot and agrees that there's something wrong... sounds and feels like loose bearings in the switch itself.  It does not have the same clearance as any of the other bikes with same switch on their floor.  Meaning, in the off position the switch has (exaggerated) a full inch of upward and downward movement, and while in the locked position it has (exaggerated) 2 inches of upward and downward movement.  While my switch has less than half in either position.

Long shot question is... has anyone else had this happen on either a New CVO or any other Harley ignition switch that comes on the Ultra Classic Electra Glides?

Thanks, T-Hawk

[Heatwave]

While I have searched the site for others with same problem, I haven't found any that describes my problem.

Recently, I was in a neighboorhood that I needed to lock the forks/bags etc...  When I returned to the bike to ride home, I could not get the switch itself to unlock without having to jiggle it while working the key in the switch.  

Once I was able to get the switch unstuck and able to put it into run mode, the bike did not power up at all... nothing.  The switch would now easily rotate from Off to Run to Accessories without sticking, but could not get it to put power to the bike.

I made sure the forks were actually unlocked and they were, so I rotated the switch back to the locked position, but with out actually locking with the key, only to have it get stuck again.

After about 5 mins of locking and unlocking the forks and getting the switch unstuck I finally managed to get power back to the bike and have been riding without issues for the past couple of weeks.  But, without ever putting the switch into the locked position, for fear that I wouldn't be able to undo it.

The Dealership looked at it in the parking lot and agrees that there's something wrong... sounds and feels like loose bearings in the switch itself.  It does not have the same clearance as any of the other bikes with same switch on their floor.  Meaning, in the off position the switch has (exaggerated) a full inch of upward and downward movement, and while in the locked position it has (exaggerated) 2 inches of upward and downward movement.  While my switch has less than half in either position.

Long shot question is... has anyone else had this happen on either a New CVO or any other Harley ignition switch that comes on the Ultra Classic Electra Glides?

Thanks, T-Hawk

I'm not sure if this video will help but maybe something is out of alignment. It might be as simple as removing the ignition switch and reinstalling. It's actually very easy and I've done it myself after watching this video:

[T-Hawk]

I'm not sure if this video will help but maybe something is out of alignment. It might be as simple as removing the ignition switch and reinstalling. It's actually very easy and I've done it myself after watching this video:

Holy Crap!!!  Just finished the video and after seeing it, you may be right.  Because I'm having difficulty depressing the switch down in order to even turn my key so I can lock the forks and switch, it may be a weak spring under the housing that's giving me this problem.

The dealership said I'd have to remove the inner fairing in order to replace the entire switch, but I'm guessing the local techs don't know the information in that video.

I'll give it a try after I get the bike home and in the garage, just in case I have to put it back the way it was and hopefully get the switch functioning so I can at least ride.

I'll let you know how it comes out... wish me luck. 

[grc]

Holy Crap!!!  Just finished the video and after seeing it, you may be right.  Because I'm having difficulty depressing the switch down in order to even turn my key so I can lock the forks and switch, it may be a weak spring under the housing that's giving me this problem.

The dealership said I'd have to remove the inner fairing in order to replace the entire switch, but I'm guessing the local techs don't know the information in that video.

I'll give it a try after I get the bike home and in the garage, just in case I have to put it back the way it was and hopefully get the switch functioning so I can at least ride.

I'll let you know how it comes out... wish me luck. 

Let me get this straight.  You have a 2011 Harley that came with a two year factory warranty, and the dealership is telling you to replace the switch?  Is this some sort of joke?


Jerry

[T-Hawk]

Let me get this straight.  You have a 2011 Harley that came with a two year factory warranty, and the dealership is telling you to replace the switch?  Is this some sort of joke?


Jerry

Not actually saying I would have to replace the switch, but that they would have to Contact Harley's CVO bunch (it's a special item matched only to my bike) and have a new ignition switch sent, and then THEY would have to pull the fairing to replace it (under Warranty).  I'm not so sure what they mean by 'special'... looks like any other ignition switch to me.  Unless they plan on giving me another Gold Key and remotes 

I have had nothing but trouble with my local Harley techs working on anything without forgetting this or that, or having the bike detailed (shop policy before giving it back) and taking three to four days for an actual mileage service, when my HD Certified mechanic running his own shop does far better work for literally half the price in most cases.

I'm not the only one having issues with them, so don't mistake my displeasure with them as a personal attack, but a really good friend and fellow Retired Air Force co-worker physically saw, while in the service area, a tech (loosely applied) washing someone else's ride only to drop the wash rag on the shop floor, and pick it up going straight back to the paint with it, not even taking a second to rinse off the floor spice...  I always wondered how I ended up with so many swirls in my paint on the DWG...

Oh, and I couldn't wait to get her home... I went out to the parking lot and gently removed my switch as described in the video, taking care of the wire on mine that I assume has something to do with the Security System,  looked everything over and put it back. 

I could not get it to recreate the sticking problem, as it seems to be working fine now.  I will look into possibly adding a little water resistant grease to the moving parts, as they seemed awful dry.

Thanks so much for that video...   

I Love This Forum!!!

Ted

[Heatwave]

Not actually saying I would have to replace the switch, but that they would have to Contact Harley's CVO bunch (it's a special item matched only to my bike) and have a new ignition switch sent, and then THEY would have to pull the fairing to replace it (under Warranty).  I'm not so sure what they mean by 'special'... looks like any other ignition switch to me.  Unless they plan on giving me another Gold Key and remotes  

I have had nothing but trouble with my local Harley techs working on anything without forgetting this or that, or having the bike detailed (shop policy before giving it back) and taking three to four days for an actual mileage service, when my HD Certified mechanic running his own shop does far better work for literally half the price in most cases.

I'm not the only one having issues with them, so don't mistake my displeasure with them as a personal attack, but a really good friend and fellow Retired Air Force co-worker physically saw, while in the service area, a tech (loosely applied) washing someone else's ride only to drop the wash rag on the shop floor, and pick it up going straight back to the paint with it, not even taking a second to rinse off the floor spice...  I always wondered how I ended up with so many swirls in my paint on the DWG...

Oh, and I couldn't wait to get her home... I went out to the parking lot and gently removed my switch as described in the video, taking care of the wire on mine that I assume has something to do with the Security System,  looked everything over and put it back.  

I could not get it to recreate the sticking problem, as it seems to be working fine now.  I will look into possibly adding a little water resistant grease to the moving parts, as they seemed awful dry.

Thanks so much for that video...  

I Love This Forum!!!

Ted

The ignition switch on your CVO is the same as mine which is the same as every other touring bike. The fairing does not need to be removed to access the ignition switch. The only cover that needs to be removed is the switch cover that surrounds the light, radio and accessory rocker switches. Once the ignition switch post is removed the rocker switch cover can be reomved with just 2 screws. All the wiring to all 4 rocker switches are connected to the bike with 2 plugs on the right side of the switch cover.

Once you remove the 2 screws on either side of the switch cover, then the ignition as shown in the video and then you've unplugged the wiring the entire switch housing can be slipped off in order to access the rest of the ignition.

[T-Hawk]

The ignition switch on your CVO is the same as mine which is the same as every other touring bike. The fairing does not need to be removed to access the ignition switch. The only cover that needs to be removed is the switch cover that surrounds the light radio and accessory rocker switches. Once the ignition switch post is removed the rocker switch cover can be reomved with just 2 screws. All the wiring to all 4 rocker switches are connected to the bike with 2 plugs on the right side of the switch cover.

Once you remove the 2 screws on either side of the switch cover, then the ignition as shown in the video and then you've unplugged the wiring the entire switch housing can be slipped off in order to access the rest of the ignition.

Know you know a little more why I'm so hesitant to take my bike to the Dealer for technical questions and such...  They like to smile at me when I come in to visit, but I don't know if it has anything to do with me buying 3 bikes inside of 3 years from them, or if they have something else up their sleeves thinking I'll buy it... I've bought everything else

[T-Hawk]

Alrighty Then... seems to be working fine for now, maybe even fixed for good.

I can not recreate the sticky switch or the lack of bringing power to the bike.

Keeping fingers crossed, and a special new tool in the tool kit.

Thanks again Jerry,
Ted

[kiwihog]

My dealer replaced the switch for me similar troubles... even threw in the 2 extra keys that came with the new switch not programmed but may come in handy some day.. had no problem since then  4 months

[Heatwave]

My dealer replaced the switch for me similar troubles... even threw in the 2 extra keys that came with the new switch not programmed but may come in handy some day.. had no problem since then  4 months

Do the new keys match the locks on the saddlebags or do you now have separate keys?

[kiwihog]

just checked and they do fit saddlebags but am using the original keys just kept the others as spares

[danner55]

T-Hawk,

Are you using your power lock remote for ignition\fork lock, saddlebags & tour pak? I never use my keys for anything. My power lock for my ignition\fork lock quit working. I now use my key to unlock the ignition\fork lock. My new power lock system is at the dealer waiting to be installed. When they get my new front fender in (wheel weight damage). It will all be done at the same time. All will be done under warranty. Check to make sure your power lock system is working as it supposed to. How close is another dealer? It might be worth checking out & then change dealers.

[T-Hawk]

T-Hawk,

Are you using your power lock remote for ignition\fork lock, saddlebags & tour pak? I never use my keys for anything. My power lock for my ignition\fork lock quit working. I now use my key to unlock the ignition\fork lock. My new power lock system is at the dealer waiting to be installed. When they get my new front fender in (wheel weight damage). It will all be done at the same time. All will be done under warranty. Check to make sure your power lock system is working as it supposed to. How close is another dealer? It might be worth checking out & then change dealers.

You've got to be kidding me!?!

I'll never believe a word that comes out of a particular salesman (brother of owner) at my dealership again ... he knows even less than I do about Harleys, and I know very little, I mean, Hardly Anything!   Other than how nice they handle and ride for such large powerplants and general weight class.

My (so called) dealer goes over every sales with a customer, regardless of how many times you've purchased from him, all of the little intricacies about the bike.  He explicitly told me that in order to lock the forks and lock out the switch, I had to use my key.

Not so...  as I just confirmed that my remote/key works very well remotely locking everything...    I'm beginning to think it had something to do with a mechanical key moving parts that were hooked up to an electronic switch, not liking the mechanical method and binding up somewhere in the middle.

I'm not sure if I'm ever going to have that issue again... and if the dealership gets delivery of a new ignition switch for my bike, I'll gladly accept it if they'll turn it over to me for installation.  If not, they can keep it until I need it and charge me if they want.

Been seeing a lot of traffic about ESPs around the site... never had one, never thought I'd need one, but the comfort I've read in some of the other's threads makes me desire the piece of mind a little more each read.

Thanks everyone,
T-Hawk

[kiwihog]

T-Hawk,

Are you using your power lock remote for ignition\fork lock, saddlebags & tour pak? I never use my keys for anything. My power lock for my ignition\fork lock quit working. I now use my key to unlock the ignition\fork lock. My new power lock system is at the dealer waiting to be installed. When they get my new front fender in (wheel weight damage). It will all be done at the same time. All will be done under warranty. Check to make sure your power lock system is working as it supposed to. How close is another dealer? It might be worth checking out & then change dealers.

thats what happened to mine and the reason they replaced the switch.. bags etc worked but had to lock forks with the key I dont leave the bike without locking the forks and ign as someone could turn on the ign and drain the batt while away from bike .... or it could have been that you forgot to turn off the ign when you left the bike.. nah cant imagine that happening lol

[T-Hawk]

T-Hawk,

Are you using your power lock remote for ignition\fork lock, saddlebags & tour pak? I never use my keys for anything. My power lock for my ignition\fork lock quit working. I now use my key to unlock the ignition\fork lock. My new power lock system is at the dealer waiting to be installed. When they get my new front fender in (wheel weight damage). It will all be done at the same time. All will be done under warranty. Check to make sure your power lock system is working as it supposed to. How close is another dealer? It might be worth checking out & then change dealers.

Oh, and Danner, my next nearest Dealer is 5-1/2 hrs away with lots of unpredictable weather at times between here and there... I'm stuck on an Island (fondly called by some, the interior) in the middle of the largest state in the US...  Sometimes wonder what it would be like to live on one of the islands of Hawaii... at least they have a dealership on almost every island in the chain...