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[Dan_Lockwood]

Well let's put it this way, the rear axle is a 1" axle and adjust your clearance accordingly.

I used a new carbide cutter and did mine by hand.  I believe the only way to use an end mill is to take the swing arm off, which I did NOT have to do.  I think the majority of the mods have been done by hand on the bike.

[Dan_Lockwood]

You'll have to also weld a piece of 1/4" key stock behind the axle cam adjuster stop on the swing arm.  With the axle moved back you'll run out of cam to make your belt tight.

Also because the cam is now a bit further back, you'll have to relieve the rear shock mount boss to give clearance for the cam rotation upward.

[Dan_Lockwood]

Don't forget the weld on gussets.

Here is the link to Barefoot's gusset for sale thread.  It's a great deal and they include the gussets and the 1/4" key stock.

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=76001.msg1039537#msg1039537

[brassspike]

Well, I had to take the bike in for the compensator replacement so I went ahead with the swing arm mod and did that on the technicians day off. SO, it went like this; The tech tore the bike down for the compensator replacement (Inner and outer primary) and pulled the swing arm. I picked the swing arm up and took care of the modification the next day while he was off and had it ready when he returned. Our plan was that I would pay for the additional labor and any parts involved. I already had the pulley and a new belt. Labor to change the swing arm and pulley ended up 4 times the inner/outer primary and compensator! When I questioned the labor, I was told that that's what they charge labor to replace a belt (I did have a new one put on just because). Changing a belt (from scratch) is another full primary tear down. Apparently, ESP paid and I paid too?
Now I realize that the flat rate is a little tight, and I have no problem sweetening the pot at tad, but come on! Service manager is out sick so I'll have to wait until next week to talk to him.
I did let them know that the bike has FIN, a GPS/cell anti theft device, that has been sending me emails and text each time the bike is moved. I know each time the bike is jostled or left still for 5 minutes. That pretty much gives me the time that it was being actively worked on and when, where, and what speed it was test driven. Nice thing to have! I also have the valve train tic back so I guess I'll need to check for a bent pushrod. Got to love it!!

Oh, BTW  The gear was pretty good on the way home. I did try to shift one extra time on the interstate but it does seem to be livable. After this I'm just going to have to buy a nice lift table and be done with it!

[hd-dude]

According to the Harley time code manual replacing the Comp is 2.4 hours and the belt (complete with inner outer\primary removal) is 3.4 hours. How is it that they charged you 4 times the amount of a comp replacement?

[brassspike]

According to the Harley time code manual replacing the Comp is 2.4 hours and the belt (complete with inner outer\primary removal) is 3.4 hours. How is it that they charged you 4 times the amount of a comp replacement?

From the receipt: Replace Com sprocket Parts were $411.05, Labor Code 4003, Book time .9, Mark up 1.13
Bill total for ESP $552.32

Replace swing arm for customer: Parts $13.94, Labor 3.78 $379
Bill total for swing arm $414
.9 or 1.13 vs 3.87 = $110.74 vs $379.26 labor for swing arm. Close to 4 times the labor of a complete inn/outer tear down to remove/replace a swing arm. Remember the primary etc. was already apart for the Comp replacement.
I did swing arm mod (welding machine work) on mechanics day off and had it ready so no down time for shop.

[CVOStreetglide]

From the receipt: Replace Com sprocket Parts were $411.05, Labor Code 4003, Book time .9, Mark up 1.13
Bill total for ESP $552.32

Replace swing arm for customer: Parts $13.94, Labor 3.78 $379
Bill total for swing arm $414
.9 or 1.13 vs 3.87 = $110.74 vs $379.26 labor for swing arm. Close to 4 times the labor of a complete inn/outer tear down to remove/replace a swing arm. Remember the primary etc. was already apart for the Comp replacement.
I did swing arm mod (welding machine work) on mechanics day off and had it ready so no down time for shop.

You need to have a serious conversation with the Service Manager and if necessary, the General Manager and Owner. I there is no satisfactory resolution loge a complaint with Harley Customer Service.

Wait 30 days and if no joy file a complaint with the consumer protectin agency.

This type of price gouging doesn't help the dealership reputation in the community.

[Mr John DEUFF]

Hello, I made this modification 2 years ago on my 2007 FLHTCUSE2 when I had my belt replaced at 50000 miles I have now 30t front and 68t rear pulley and an other OEM belt and it was fine. Now I have 25000 miles with it and the problem is that I am at the maximum of the tensioner but the tension of the belt is not strong enough.
I would like to keep my belt I have seen that it exists some tensioner for sportster. Does anyone knows if there is a tensioner for touring model?
I know I could change the rear pulley for a bigger one but I like the way it is actualy.

[Dan_Lockwood]

If you did the rear slot mod on the axle holes and welded in the lower/rear gusset, did you also add .25" square bar on the rear of the existing cam tensioner blocks?  If you did not do this, the cam will run out of rearward travel before the belt is fully tensioned.  Adding the extra square bar stock is a must do.

Also on mine, I found when I moved the cams all the way to the rear that they hit the shock mount lugs.  I had to grind a bit of that away to give full access to the rear of the slot with the axle.

Check to make sure you have the "extra" .25" bar added and that the cams are not hitting the shock mount bosses.

Good luck.

[Mr John DEUFF]

I didn't mod anything on the bike except the pulleys and the belt because the welded mod is for the 2009 and after. I read here that on 2007 model I just need to replace the front and rear pulleys and it was fine for at least 22 000 miles but now (25000) I am at the maximum of the adjustment but the belt is not tighten enough and jump on the pulley sometime.
 That the reason why I would like to know if it exists a system to tighten the pulley like on some XR models.

[Dan_Lockwood]

I didn't mod anything on the bike except the pulleys and the belt because the welded mod is for the 2009 and after. I read here that on 2007 model I just need to replace the front and rear pulleys and it was fine for at least 22 000 miles but now (25000) I am at the maximum of the adjustment but the belt is not tighten enough and jump on the pulley sometime.
 That the reason why I would like to know if it exists a system to tighten the pulley like on some XR models.

That sounds reasonable I guess.

What were your original front/rear sprocket tooth count and what is your new tooth count front/rear?

Is there any more slot in the swingarm and are the cams just at their peak without bottoming out the axle in the slot?

Thanks and have a great afternoon.

[Mr John DEUFF]

Thanks for your reply Dan.
I had 32t front and 66t rear and now 30t front and 68t rear. I am at the maximum of the possibility otherwise the axle's bolt will touch the rear shocks.

[Dan_Lockwood]

On the '08 and newer, there were some belt options, like I believe a 139 versus the stock 141 belt.  But the only manufacturer of the belt was Falcon and they did have some issues with them breaking.

I thought there may have been some other belt from a Sportster that would work on some of the older touring like yours.

Your original ratio was 2.0625 and your new one is 2.2666, but a 30t front with your original stock rear would get you 2.2 final drive ratio.  That's about an 8% reduction, or bump in rpms at any given speed or gear.

You might look into what your original belt tooth count is and then see what "might" be available in a 2t less belt.

Like I said, on my '09 I had to grind down the rear shock mounts to give clearance for the axle cams to rotate to their full rear position.  After that I had no issues, but again mine is an '09 not an '07.

[Mr John DEUFF]

My belt is 137t 1 inch, same size than the sportster I have found 131 133 and 134t which could be too short. But anyway I want to first try a tensioner for the belt on the swing arm like they use on some supercross bikes because changing belt is a real PIA. I will tell you if it works.

[ultraglide12]

hey all been reading this and googling.  i have 12 ultra now if i got the 30t and do the mod will i keep  my 6th gear light and cruise?  thanx